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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 10-20-2015, 07:59 PM   #541
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Thanks for the reply guy's I appreciate it.
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Old 10-20-2015, 09:45 PM   #542
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thanks for the info
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Old 10-21-2015, 08:09 AM   #543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricM View Post
I'm really wanting to buy this kit. I'm just need a nudge. I'm deciding on this and 2 others. Would you recommend it? I'm a beginner into the world of Buggys. Been flying planes and helis the last couple years.
Easiest kit to build, and the build quality is amazing. Definitely an amazing first kit to build. You'll love the performance, but also the durability as a new driver. Lastly, the EB48.3 can be tuned to be really easy to drive too, which makes the learning process all that much easier. Then you find out that the EB48.3 is very responsive to tuning changes and you can make it match any driving style.

There pretty much aren't any negatives with this one. The only upgrade you need is an aluminum servo horn if your servo doesn't come with one.
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Old 10-21-2015, 04:07 PM   #544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricM View Post
I'm really wanting to buy this kit. I'm just need a nudge. I'm deciding on this and 2 others. Would you recommend it? I'm a beginner into the world of Buggys. Been flying planes and helis the last couple years.
Although I have built quite a few kits in the last thirty years, this was the first 1/8th scale and liquid filled differentials. The instructions are very simple to follow and you having built and flown both helis and aircraft you should have zero trouble with this one. Aircraft I had done since before teenage years, the helis I got into later and them take some time to build and especially get setup correctly, much more difficult than this kit will pose for you.

I think the most important thing the Tekno brings is the most stout parts that many other mfg fall short on. The arms, c-blocks, spindles and even the shock towers are just built to last and take abuse. This was one of the major reasons I went with Tekno, plus I love their attention to detail in the small things, this buggy will take the abuse very few will with out breaking. I knew this buggy was going to get abused while I learned to drive it and it has taken some serious abuse and only shows some scuffing of the anodizing on the tops of the shock towers! Twice I ran into a concrete wall on a technical part of the track, hit it hard enough folks in the pits commented on what I broke; didn't break a thing but my pride. Last Sunday I was racing three other 1/8th scale and we were all pushing each other pretty hard, I had the misfortune of having a short course truck blow a jump right into my buggy as it launched off the first mogul in a rhythm section, they hit very hard and the only broken was that poor Losi SC bumper mount and one a-arm, my EB48.3 just need to be put back on it's wheels.

Take a look at the instructions to get a feel for what you'll be facing. I would highly suggest buying the MIP metric allen driver set, it will make life much easier and the build go much quicker.

Instruction manual EB48.3-
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...structions.pdf


Allen Driver Set at Amain-
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...ip9502/p261254
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Old 10-22-2015, 04:19 AM   #545
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I have been reading that they are very durable. I think I will have to go with this kit. I have been eyeing it up for a while. The instructions seem pretty easy to follow. I do have the MIP Allen wrench sets. They are awesome. I use them for all my heli builds. What other electronics/lubrication should I get for this buggy?
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Old 10-22-2015, 09:58 AM   #546
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I gotta say I've had some horrific looking crashes and mid air contact that look like the buggy should have been destroyed only to pull away like nothing happened. Awesome durability.
I've had issues in the past with putting so much time through a car tuning that once I got it rite I wore it out already lol. Not the case with tekno.
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Old 10-22-2015, 05:28 PM   #547
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Since folks have been talking about running universals in the Tekno as of late...I figured now would be a good time to point out that Tekno just released theirs!
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5287-...ebnb48-3-2pcs/
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Old 10-25-2015, 01:31 AM   #548
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I have a conundrum. EB48.3 or Xray XB8e? Anyone driven both to shed any light on what way to go?
Thanks
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Old 10-25-2015, 10:33 AM   #549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teknorc View Post
Shortening the front link makes the car more stable. Sweepers, off-power, on power, etc. It will land better as well. We have been moving to a shorter front link lately and the results have been great.

Theoretically it gives you less initial steering but more on power steering. What we have found is less twitch and the rear follows the front better around and out of corners.

Start with the front link short (shortest on hub, shortest on tower, middle on tower). Tune the steering with the rear end:

thicker sway bar (more steering everywhere)
more rear toe (more entry steering)
less rear toe (more stability entering, but more steering out of the corner)
That is very interesting!
Can you be more specific on shortening the front link (Shortest on hub, shortest on the tower, middle on tower)?
As the stock position on the front link was 1/B on the manual, which holes on the tower and hub should I try? And do I need to move the shocks position as well?

Thanks!
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Old 10-25-2015, 11:13 PM   #550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLAM View Post
That is very interesting!
Can you be more specific on shortening the front link (Shortest on hub, shortest on the tower, middle on tower)?
As the stock position on the front link was 1/B on the manual, which holes on the tower and hub should I try? And do I need to move the shocks position as well?

Thanks!
In order to get what they are currently running, you would mount your link on the 5/A holes.

You do not need to move the shock position, that is normally a separate adjustment. Most of us running the current setup (basically the setup that seems to work the best everywhere for starting out) are running the stock shock positions, so F=3/B R=3/A

Hopefully this helps
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Old 10-26-2015, 01:34 AM   #551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carter Flotron View Post
In order to get what they are currently running, you would mount your link on the 5/A holes.

You do not need to move the shock position, that is normally a separate adjustment. Most of us running the current setup (basically the setup that seems to work the best everywhere for starting out) are running the stock shock positions, so F=3/B R=3/A

Hopefully this helps
Thanks for your quick reply!

If mounting on 5/A holes, is it going to change the camber to zero or even positive?
Do I need to shorten the link itself? The stock length is 24mm.

Thanks!
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Old 10-26-2015, 06:13 AM   #552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLAM View Post
Thanks for your quick reply!

If mounting on 5/A holes, is it going to change the camber to zero or even positive?
Do I need to shorten the link itself? The stock length is 24mm.

Thanks!
You will have to shorten the link.
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Old 10-26-2015, 08:38 AM   #553
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You will have to shorten the link.
By how much approximately?
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:11 AM   #554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLAM View Post
By how much approximately?
While the camber rod length measurements serve as manner in which to build the car in "kit" form, what is important is the actual camber angle.

Measuring the camber angle is easy using a tool like this:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...sa99172/p37306

Common camber angle settings range from -1 to -3 degrees. This leans the top of the tire in. Seldom will you see a positive camber setting for offroad.
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:45 AM   #555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLAM View Post
By how much approximately?
Don't know. Set it with a camber gauge. Going by length is only a starting point for the initial kit build.
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