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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 10-19-2015, 08:14 PM   #526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snwchris View Post
@Fasttrak... My 48.2-3 is the Tekno 48.2 with the .3 upgrades and running 4s.

Last indoor season the 48.2 worked well and a couple of the guys with .3s here have had to make more tweaks than usual to getting it setup.

So far with the .2 blocks it feels way better for my driving style and I guess time will tell as I get more races on it.

Thanks for the feedback, trying to find the range of usable adjustments this buggy is capable of. I can't even imagine this buggy with 4S on an indoor track, mine is running at 60% current limit and it is pretty crazy fast already. I think everyone loves a ton of steering so a few dollars to try the .2 blocks is worth the investment to experiment. What parts are actually needed or is it just the front blocks from the .2 kit?



Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
I believe NorCal Hobbies is where you're talking about. They have a full stock of Tekno parts on the wall and should have a set of the hinge pin inserts there. What you have left will depend on what you use for settings. For the motor, if you continue to have issues, you can consider picking up the old style non-lightened motor mount, which has 4 screw holes, so you can secure the motor even more. That is an odd issue though unless there was something on the threads of the motor plate to start with that was preventing the thread lock from working well.
Nor Cal has a pretty good selection but like Amain, is missing many of the tuning options of pistons, sway-bars, springs and other items. I will check on the stock of pills. Just figured I should of had more than the 12 pills my kit had having seen pictures of the tree most kits come with, not the end of the world and probably not too expensive either. I did get the final set of sway-bars and springs directly from Tekno in the mail today, dying to put these through the tests and see how the buggy reacts with some stiffer springs, sway-bars and shock package.
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:53 PM   #527
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You need the uprights and spindles and the outer bearings are smaller. Don't know what size they are offhand
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:14 PM   #528
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The outer bearing size is 8x14x4
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Old 10-20-2015, 12:25 AM   #529
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Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
I think everyone loves a ton of steering so a few dollars to try the .2 blocks is worth the investment to experiment. What parts are actually needed or is it just the front blocks from the .2 kit?
As rcgod mentioned, spindles, spindle carriers, and the smaller bearings. For the spindle carriers, there are the old 10 degree ones, the old 15 degree ones that most seemed to like, and then of course the new trailing 15 degree ones that are part of the .3. The 10 degree ones will be the most aggressive.
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5041-...eft-and-right/
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5042-...eft-and-right/
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5042b...eft-and-right/
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Old 10-20-2015, 07:30 AM   #530
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
As rcgod mentioned, spindles, spindle carriers, and the smaller bearings. For the spindle carriers, there are the old 10 degree ones, the old 15 degree ones that most seemed to like, and then of course the new trailing 15 degree ones that are part of the .3. The 10 degree ones will be the most aggressive.
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5041-...eft-and-right/
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5042-...eft-and-right/
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5042b...eft-and-right/

Thanks, just placed the order and dying to try this out with my current setup. Curious to see how the .2 10 and 15 degree castor changes handling with the stock pills.
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Old 10-20-2015, 10:53 AM   #531
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How many of you are experimenting with softer spring setups, both front and rear? What softer springs have you tried? What have been your results?
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:06 PM   #532
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Building the kit and I have a question. How much play should there be in the front arms? They have at least 1mm to 1.5mm of it the rear barely had any play. Just seems to me that's a lot of movement on the hinge pin's. The hinge pin holder screws are as tight as I can get them equal amount of play on each side. This is my first Tekno last couple cars I had were Mugen and Xay which came with shims for the arms.
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:49 PM   #533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motox984 View Post
Building the kit and I have a question. How much play should there be in the front arms? They have at least 1mm to 1.5mm of it the rear barely had any play. Just seems to me that's a lot of movement on the hinge pin's. The hinge pin holder screws are as tight as I can get them equal amount of play on each side. This is my first Tekno last couple cars I had were Mugen and Xay which came with shims for the arms.
It is normal for there to be some play, with more or less play depending on the angle of the pins. This is true for both the front and the back. It is safe to shim them as long as you do so without binding on either side, though shimming is not required. If you do shim, don't shim really tight, or dirt will get stuck and add binding to it all.
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:51 PM   #534
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Originally Posted by vwduud View Post
How many of you are experimenting with softer spring setups, both front and rear? What softer springs have you tried? What have been your results?
I've seen people run as soft as black front pink rear. I personally run much stiffer and heavier than most, so I'm running green front red rear for most tracks (with Losi 35 and 6x1.5 pistons). The more common soft setups I believe are pink front and green or yellow rear.
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Old 10-20-2015, 02:08 PM   #535
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just ordered a eb48.3 buggy just wondering if the pro-line phantom body will fit on the car? or even the jconcepts one? thank you for your input.
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Old 10-20-2015, 02:24 PM   #536
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just ordered a eb48.3 buggy just wondering if the pro-line phantom body will fit on the car? or even the jconcepts one? thank you for your input.
for sure it will
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Old 10-20-2015, 02:31 PM   #537
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just ordered a eb48.3 buggy just wondering if the pro-line phantom body will fit on the car? or even the jconcepts one? thank you for your input.
Both of them will fit great.
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Old 10-20-2015, 02:42 PM   #538
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Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
Thanks, just placed the order and dying to try this out with my current setup. Curious to see how the .2 10 and 15 degree castor changes handling with the stock pills.
What setup changes have you tried so far to get more steering?
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Old 10-20-2015, 04:37 PM   #539
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Originally Posted by Motox984 View Post
Building the kit and I have a question. How much play should there be in the front arms? They have at least 1mm to 1.5mm of it the rear barely had any play. Just seems to me that's a lot of movement on the hinge pin's. The hinge pin holder screws are as tight as I can get them equal amount of play on each side. This is my first Tekno last couple cars I had were Mugen and Xay which came with shims for the arms.
Mine was built a couple weeks ago and I noticed the same thing. I used a Associated red o-ring I removed from one of my shocks I had rebuilt with x-rings. It doesn't bind the free movement of the arms and stops that irritating front-to-rear slide of the arm on the hinge pin.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
What setup changes have you tried so far to get more steering?

So far, just about everything I could with spring packages and piston\oil on shocks I have had available, tons of new parts just showed up.
(Front- Green\8X1.4\Assoc 35 - Rear- Green\8X1.4\Assoc 32.5)
Front Mount- Upper All the way in. Lower all the way out.
Rear Mount- Upper Second from all the way in. Lower all the way out.

Camber links in just about every location to see how the chassis responded to entry, mid and exit body roll.
(Front Inner- Lowest Inside hole - Front Outer- Inside Hole)
(Rear Inner- Lowest Outside Hole - Rear Outer- Third Hole out counting inside to out)

Ride Height- with a fairly smooth high bite track with out too many jumps but two fairly high jumps to need shock pack and ride height to keep from chassis slapping. Settled on Front- 27 Rear- 25

Sway-Bars- Only had lower rate swaybars from stock with local inventory and Amain. 23mm Front and 22mm Rear. I just received a package from Tekno with all the 26mm + to test out next along with some better machined pistons.

I actually have a pretty dialed car but a bit softer than is needed for the track I primarily run on, Nor Cal Hobbies. With all the springs I just got and sway bars, I will be able to test out pushing the shock package along with the sway bars to see how those test out. I am probably having as much fun setting this chassis up and just learning this stuff all over again, it gets pretty complicated when you start fighting for that last few % points of balance.

Tekno was sold out on the pills and I do not have a set with the diagonal two dots and the side two dots. Waiting on those to test out anti-squat and rear toe.

Tires-
Losi Street- Cheap and pretty darn good on this smooth dirt\clay track. Better just after a cleaning and watering and gets pretty loose outside the groove and when the track blows out.

Duratrax Banditos C3- A tad bit better under same conditions as the Losi's and quite a bit more money when built.

Pro Line Electron Gold- Pretty good tire and better than the previous two in both a clean, wet track and when it blows out. This tire can be pushed harder on power and rotates a bit better off power.

AKA Typo Clay- Similar characteristics as the Electrons with a bit better hold in all conditions.

Pro Line Prime Gold- Best tire for this track in all conditions. It might give up a bit of heavy on power acceleration out of the corners once the track gets totally blown out but is easily managed with throttle control. I love this tire and it was putting a serious grin on my face the whole time I ran them.

I still have a ton to learn about tuning, especially an off-road vehicle, but I am getting more done each week with the tuning parts getting ordered and put through their paces. The other thing is finding a driving style that I like and can get good lap times with was something I had not considered and was working on this last weekend. I find that I prefer the buggy slightly loose in the back end on heavy acceleration in the corner, it makes getting the buggy to rotate through tight 180 sweepers much easier. I guess many would find my buggy a bit on the twitchy side With the shock package I have now I was eating up the other 1/8th buggies in the in-field switch backs and through the rhythm section, my chassis just went through there super stable and I would have to totally screw the timing and chassis slap the top of the mogul to get unsettled and even then I almost always got control and lost little time.


Diffs- I picked up Kyosho branded oils as I figured they have been doing it so long and winning they couldn't be too bad. I will have to hunt down PTRC (not sure the name but seen it mentioned a couple times in this and the EB48 thread). I have 20K, 10K, 8K, 7K, 6K, 5K and 4K.

I settled on- F-7K/M-10K/R-4K, I like this ballance of on and off power distribution. I will adjust as needed once I play with the heavier shock springs and sway bars.

Not had this much fun with an rc car in a very long time, something about these 1/8th scale just strikes at the inner kid in me.

Last edited by Fasttrak; 10-20-2015 at 05:21 PM. Reason: Forgot the Diffs :-P
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Old 10-20-2015, 07:02 PM   #540
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I'm really wanting to buy this kit. I'm just need a nudge. I'm deciding on this and 2 others. Would you recommend it? I'm a beginner into the world of Buggys. Been flying planes and helis the last couple years.
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