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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 10-16-2015, 11:05 AM   #511
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Thats a good tip, thanks! Just did that and seems like it's flat now.
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Old 10-16-2015, 10:15 PM   #512
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Looking for 6x1.6 pistons on amain to no avail, any one might have the part# or link.
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Old 10-16-2015, 10:37 PM   #513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wenrock View Post
Looking for 6x1.6 pistons on amain to no avail, any one might have the part# or link.
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr6064-...-12-1mm%C2%B2/
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Old 10-18-2015, 03:10 AM   #514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanson View Post
Need some advice in electronics setup... Will run HW150A + Xerun motor, always have the same problem when it's reveresed on the chassis... The car accelerates backwards, has 100% power on reverse, 20% power forward, etc... Need help with:

1. Motor rotation on the ESC settings: forward vs reversed?
2. Throttle control on the radio settings: normal vs reversed?
3. Binding the radio and setting up brake/throttle range - when should I do it, before or after properly setting no.1 and no.2?
Hello stanson and everybody,
I' considering to buy this car, it will be my first 1/8E TT. I have read lot of positive comments but also that there is no much room to place an ESC other than the Tekin. for my case I will put the new Hobbywing 1/8 plus ( same size of the old one).
Have you had problems installing the ESC? Could you show pictures of the inside of the car ? comments of those who use the Hobbywing ESC are welcome.
unfortunately there are no .3 cars in the tracks near my zone to see it.
thank you.
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Old 10-18-2015, 06:13 AM   #515
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Originally Posted by davidon View Post
Hello stanson and everybody,
I' considering to buy this car, it will be my first 1/8E TT. I have read lot of positive comments but also that there is no much room to place an ESC other than the Tekin. for my case I will put the new Hobbywing 1/8 plus ( same size of the old one).
Have you had problems installing the ESC? Could you show pictures of the inside of the car ? comments of those who use the Hobbywing ESC are welcome.
unfortunately there are no .3 cars in the tracks near my zone to see it.
thank you.
If you look through this thread and the hobbywing xr8 thread there are pictures of the esc. Installed. It looks a little tight but it will fit.
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Old 10-18-2015, 09:04 AM   #516
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Last week got to start running my 48.2-3 Indoors and had some push in the 180s and couple 90s. During the week I saw people talking about shortening the Front camber link and put on outer hole of tower. I tried that and it helped but still couldn't keep a tight turn in the 180s and 90s where some could cut under me.

Yesterday at practice before racing, I switched back to my .2 Steering Block and Knuckles and felt 10xs better in the 180s and 90s and good everywhere else as well.
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Old 10-18-2015, 09:45 AM   #517
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Default smaller track with decent jumps low bite and dusty

Hey guys here is my latest setup from a few weekends ago. The EB48.3 was pretty dialed specially when the track started holding moisture and the temp dropped.
Attached Thumbnails
Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread-eb48.3-low-bite-small-track-setup.jpg  
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Old 10-18-2015, 09:57 AM   #518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snwchris View Post
Last week got to start running my 48.2-3 Indoors and had some push in the 180s and couple 90s. During the week I saw people talking about shortening the Front camber link and put on outer hole of tower. I tried that and it helped but still couldn't keep a tight turn in the 180s and 90s where some could cut under me.

Yesterday at practice before racing, I switched back to my .2 Steering Block and Knuckles and felt 10xs better in the 180s and 90s and good everywhere else as well.
You can also move the camber link up a hole on the front and rear tower. More anti-squat and a shorter wheel base can help as well. Less kickup, more rear toe are a few other options
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Old 10-18-2015, 10:32 PM   #519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snwchris View Post
Last week got to start running my 48.2-3 Indoors and had some push in the 180s and couple 90s. During the week I saw people talking about shortening the Front camber link and put on outer hole of tower. I tried that and it helped but still couldn't keep a tight turn in the 180s and 90s where some could cut under me.

Yesterday at practice before racing, I switched back to my .2 Steering Block and Knuckles and felt 10xs better in the 180s and 90s and good everywhere else as well.
Are you using your 48.3 as an SL with 2S or with a full 4S setup?

It took quite a bit of tinkering with just about everything from the kit setup to get this 48.3 I have working well on an indoor small clay track. The track is definitely built around 1/10th scale so the 1/8th scale require good balance of on and off power steering to get around it quickly.

Had a very good day today and was getting into the low 17 second lap times, with the occasional high 16 seconds, not far off what the mod buggy's are turning which I felt was pretty damn good for a new platform I am still learning to drive and setup. I am having so much fun with this buggy I am thinking of selling off the new B5M and getting another 48.3 to build up as a full 4S setup to race at a couple of larger outdoor tracks. This is one hell of a good platform with that fine balance of brute strength that follows a sound backing of form and function.

I have only had a single problem and that is keeping the Tekin Pro 4 secured to the motor mounting plate. Having used blue loctite the first couple times I had to resort to removing the plate from the motor, chasing the threads, degreasing and using red loctite and so far, it held all day today with out coming loose; fingers crossed it stays put as it will eat a spur so quickly it is gone about the time I hear that sound of a spur gear going to heaven.

One other thing, I was going to change the anti-squat and add some rear toe to test it's effects and realized, the only pills I have left after building the kit is another set of four center dots. Shouldn't I have a complete set of the angle dots, the double side dots and a few others? Do these come as an upgrade option? Kind of sucks as I placed an order earlier this week for all the larger sized sway-bars directly from Tekno as Amain doesn't stock them.
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Old 10-19-2015, 04:17 AM   #520
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I'm gonna try the .2 hubs and blocks also. I have it pretty good but im running an off the wall setup to get it to turn. Hopefully with the hubs I'll be able to back off the other adjustments and get back to a conventional setup.
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Old 10-19-2015, 06:13 AM   #521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
Are you using your 48.3 as an SL with 2S or with a full 4S setup?

It took quite a bit of tinkering with just about everything from the kit setup to get this 48.3 I have working well on an indoor small clay track. The track is definitely built around 1/10th scale so the 1/8th scale require good balance of on and off power steering to get around it quickly.

Had a very good day today and was getting into the low 17 second lap times, with the occasional high 16 seconds, not far off what the mod buggy's are turning which I felt was pretty damn good for a new platform I am still learning to drive and setup. I am having so much fun with this buggy I am thinking of selling off the new B5M and getting another 48.3 to build up as a full 4S setup to race at a couple of larger outdoor tracks. This is one hell of a good platform with that fine balance of brute strength that follows a sound backing of form and function.

I have only had a single problem and that is keeping the Tekin Pro 4 secured to the motor mounting plate. Having used blue loctite the first couple times I had to resort to removing the plate from the motor, chasing the threads, degreasing and using red loctite and so far, it held all day today with out coming loose; fingers crossed it stays put as it will eat a spur so quickly it is gone about the time I hear that sound of a spur gear going to heaven.

One other thing, I was going to change the anti-squat and add some rear toe to test it's effects and realized, the only pills I have left after building the kit is another set of four center dots. Shouldn't I have a complete set of the angle dots, the double side dots and a few others? Do these come as an upgrade option? Kind of sucks as I placed an order earlier this week for all the larger sized sway-bars directly from Tekno as Amain doesn't stock them.
You should have plenty of pills left. Once mine was built I still had at least one pair of each type left over.
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:31 AM   #522
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Quote:
Hello stanson and everybody,
I' considering to buy this car, it will be my first 1/8E TT. I have read lot of positive comments but also that there is no much room to place an ESC other than the Tekin. for my case I will put the new Hobbywing 1/8 plus ( same size of the old one).
Have you had problems installing the ESC? Could you show pictures of the inside of the car ? comments of those who use the Hobbywing ESC are welcome.
unfortunately there are no .3 cars in the tracks near my zone to see it.
thank you.
That's the way I mounted my Xerun 150A esc. I modified the switch cables (very easy, 4 screws at the bottom of the esc, trim the side of the case) as they now exit through the side not the front of the esc. With 4068 size motor it fits just perfect, you can mount it in 2 different ways but I chose the below method (no worries the sensor cable will touch the central drive shaft):

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Last edited by stanson; 10-19-2015 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:41 AM   #523
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@Fasttrak... My 48.2-3 is the Tekno 48.2 with the .3 upgrades and running 4s.

Last indoor season the 48.2 worked well and a couple of the guys with .3s here have had to make more tweaks than usual to getting it setup.

So far with the .2 blocks it feels way better for my driving style and I guess time will tell as I get more races on it.
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:34 AM   #524
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To get more steering try moving the front shock in on the arm. Makes a big difference.
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Old 10-19-2015, 02:28 PM   #525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
Had a very good day today and was getting into the low 17 second lap times, with the occasional high 16 seconds, not far off what the mod buggy's are turning which I felt was pretty damn good for a new platform I am still learning to drive and setup. I am having so much fun with this buggy I am thinking of selling off the new B5M and getting another 48.3 to build up as a full 4S setup to race at a couple of larger outdoor tracks. This is one hell of a good platform with that fine balance of brute strength that follows a sound backing of form and function.

I have only had a single problem and that is keeping the Tekin Pro 4 secured to the motor mounting plate. Having used blue loctite the first couple times I had to resort to removing the plate from the motor, chasing the threads, degreasing and using red loctite and so far, it held all day today with out coming loose; fingers crossed it stays put as it will eat a spur so quickly it is gone about the time I hear that sound of a spur gear going to heaven.

One other thing, I was going to change the anti-squat and add some rear toe to test it's effects and realized, the only pills I have left after building the kit is another set of four center dots. Shouldn't I have a complete set of the angle dots, the double side dots and a few others? Do these come as an upgrade option? Kind of sucks as I placed an order earlier this week for all the larger sized sway-bars directly from Tekno as Amain doesn't stock them.
I believe NorCal Hobbies is where you're talking about. They have a full stock of Tekno parts on the wall and should have a set of the hinge pin inserts there. What you have left will depend on what you use for settings. For the motor, if you continue to have issues, you can consider picking up the old style non-lightened motor mount, which has 4 screw holes, so you can secure the motor even more. That is an odd issue though unless there was something on the threads of the motor plate to start with that was preventing the thread lock from working well.
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