Dragonfueled

Will shortening the front camber links give me more front steering. Still batteling some on power push. I can nail the throttle and get it to rotate but at half throttle it pushes allot. I removed the front sway bar but still want more steering.

Fasttrak

Quote pulled from one of the many setup websites on the web.


I am guessing that what you are looking for is going to be made in multiple areas, not just a simple remove front swaybar and shorten camber links\change roll centers. I wish I could tell you exactly what it will take to get that initial turn-in on power you are looking for but too new to 1/8th scale buggy to nail it down. It took me the better part of two full days at the track and working through at least sixteen battery packs to get my buggy close to perfect. The website I linked above has an abridged outline of what each settings effects will be which should help you understand what areas to address and work on your next time at the track.

If I was to hazard a guess at some changes that would give what you are looking for would be-

Front Toe Out- Increases turn-in steering a lot. But can make the car wandery on the straights; Never use more than 2 degrees of front toe-out!

Angled Front Camber Links- Turn-in is very aggressive. The front feels as if it wants to roll less than the rear.

More inclined on the front shocks (inner holes upper outer holes on lower)- Steering feels very smooth. A little more mid-corner steering.

Softer Front Spring- The car has more steering, especially in the middle part and the exit of the corner. Front springs that are too soft can make the car hook and spin, and they can also make it react sluggishly.



All of this is just a snapshot of what is offered in that link I posted. With out knowing the track surface, your driving style, the best person to make the decisions on what to change is you. Go over one of the setup pages and start getting familiar with what each of the changes do, and remember, by adding to the front traction you are taking away some of the rear traction. it is always a sliding scale so find the balance you need to get fast lap times for your driving style. You should also spend some time understanding the diffs and how changing the oil viscosity changes on and off power steering. These buggies are a total kick in the butt, they are also pretty complicated little machines that require time to understand and get setup properly.

Setup site- http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

Gear diff tuning- http://www.petitrc.com/Tech/XRC_GearDiff/

MX304

iTrader: (21)

What does the rest of your setup look like? I found the stock setup to have some push. Switched to one of Lutz's setups with a couple of minor tweaks and it is dialed.

Mikeand22

iTrader: (30)

Thought I'd share my new ride, just finished it the other night.

MOE

iTrader: (14)

Nice paint scheme.

jwill05

iTrader: (6)

I have had a lot of luck getting more turn by shortening the front camber links on my eb48.2 and sct 410 I say try it if it doesn't give the desired effect change it back. Almost done with my eb48.3 build also only the shocks left. I am also waiting on my LFR Assassin body.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

If you need more steering try the front uprights and spindles from the .2

The .3 have trailing spindles to make the car more stable. I switched to the .2 parts and the car turns better off power. The trailing spindle works great on high bite but low bite I like the v2 parts.

stanson

Need some advice in electronics setup... Will run HW150A + Xerun motor, always have the same problem when it's reveresed on the chassis... The car accelerates backwards, has 100% power on reverse, 20% power forward, etc... Need help with:

1. Motor rotation on the ESC settings: forward vs reversed?
2. Throttle control on the radio settings: normal vs reversed?
3. Binding the radio and setting up brake/throttle range - when should I do it, before or after properly setting no.1 and no.2?

wrightcs77

iTrader: (551)

Read the instructions for the esc.

I have motor rotation normal.

Throttle on radio is dependant on brand of radio. I think most are normal, futaba is reversed.

Set epa to 100% on f/r

Then calibrate esc after you do these settings.

wrightcs77

iTrader: (551)

I found in the long setting n the front link there was binding.
Found the Lutz set up to push at mid corner. I switched to the Bornhorst set up and love it so far.

qstorm777

iTrader: (2)

I personally set it on the esc so everything else appears the same/normal. Then I set the ranges. So does the HW esc rotate the motor in opposite direction of a tekin esc?

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

If you have the field card or program card for the HW you need to change motor direction. Also check which direction your radio is setup for as well... "Normal" or "Rev"

teknorc

iTrader: (2)

Shortening the front link makes the car more stable. Sweepers, off-power, on power, etc. It will land better as well. We have been moving to a shorter front link lately and the results have been great.

Theoretically it gives you less initial steering but more on power steering. What we have found is less twitch and the rear follows the front better around and out of corners.

Start with the front link short (shortest on hub, shortest on tower, middle on tower). Tune the steering with the rear end:

thicker sway bar (more steering everywhere)
more rear toe (more entry steering)
less rear toe (more stability entering, but more steering out of the corner)

boudin4evr

iTrader: (18)

any word on the TEKNO setup manual?

teknorc

iTrader: (2)

Still tweaking it .