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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 09-28-2015, 12:44 PM   #406
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Originally Posted by rcfanep8 View Post
Hi, newbe advice on electrics if i could.
Our club is running a superlite class, if you don't have a " Superlite " you are allowed to run normal buggy's but on 3s only.
With my .3 if I stick with the 1900kv motor and rx8 gen2 esc would going from 18t pinion to 19 and raising the timing get me close to the same performance as 4s ???

Txs in advance.
A few ways to get an approximate idea of speed, though certainly not the same for torque. This roughly equates to the number of pinion teeth going past a location over a period of time, but again is not really an accurate measure specifically. I also don't suggest you try to just gear to compensate, as you want a motor/battery combination designed for the application.

16.8x1900x18 = 574560
12.6x1900x? = 574560 24t pinion would get you here
12.6x2200x? = 574560 20-21t pinion would be around this range
12.6x2650x? = 574560 17t pinion would be very close

Of the options you mentioned in later posts, I would choose the 2650 and start with a 17t, going up or down from there based on torque/temps.

Alternatively, become an eBuggy lite and put a good SC motor and stick pack in. You'll most likely be below weight then too. In all cases, just be sure to vent the body well and keep things cool with your drivetrain well maintained and moving freely. The lower the voltage goes, the more important that becomes to keep heat in check.
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Old 09-28-2015, 12:46 PM   #407
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I haven't seen many EB48.3 race videos recently, so...here's mine on some loose and rough outdoor at Hillside Raceway in Deerfield, NH.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


I'm still running a stiff suspension, which handled the rough better than I expected it to. Softer would've been good for a lot of the track, but with all the flat landings I opted to stay with the stiff suspension like I normally run since it was still controllable.
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:04 PM   #408
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I haven't seen many EB48.3 race videos recently, so...here's mine on some loose and rough outdoor at Hillside Raceway in Deerfield, NH.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


I'm still running a stiff suspension, which handled the rough better than I expected it to. Softer would've been good for a lot of the track, but with all the flat landings I opted to stay with the stiff suspension like I normally run since it was still controllable.
That looks like a fun outdoor track, surrounded by trees and a good amount of shade. It really didn't look like you were being pushed too hard in that race, save the chassis and keep it stiff I enjoyed watching some of your racing mates beat their buggies into submission, more enjoyable than watching me do it to my own buggy.



I finished up my 48.3 on Saturday, applying a nice one color paint job and plenty of stickers to make up for that decision. Everything turned out nicely, took quite a while to figure out a clean install for the motor and the esc. Was glad that Tekno added the servo horns as Amain's customer service got the tooth count wrong for the MKS servos, they said it was a 25T and it turns out it is like Sanwa and is a 23T spline count. I will have to order a proper aluminum horn as this servo is flexing the plastic one, shouldn't be surprised with 527 oz-in of torque.

I had Sunday free to spend at the track to get some more time on my B5M setup, what I have been working on getting some driving skills back since returning to the hobby and to get some first runs on the 48.3. Not sure what I was expecting but holy hell, is this thing a handful. I had not really thought to reduce the brakes or reduce the steering and with everything set to max endpoints, this buggy on 2S is pretty crazy, more than I was expecting to be honest. I found out how good the brakes work on the first gap jump, ten foot jump into a bowl with almost an immediate need to setup for a ninety right. Gauge the speed and give it just a touch of throttle over the approach speed and the nose comes up immediately, tap the slightest amount of brake to settle the nose down and it lawn darts into the face of the landing. Oops. Was pretty sure I had done some damage, being early in the morning I had to walk out and right the buggy and inspect for damage, just scuffed the front towers and the buggy gained it's first war wounds. I should of done some shake down runs to set brakes and even throttle curves, this motor has a ton of pewp and grabbing a handful has it launching down the track at an alarming rate.

I finish off the pack taking it a bit easier after having reduced the brake and even the throttle a bit, these new lipos have plenty of juice and are barely getting warm after ten minutes, though I am not attacking with this buggy yet. Pretty crazy how much steering this buggy has, on power and off it was a lot more than what I have been used to, no other 4 wheel drive vehicles besides touring cars in the past. With steering maxed to the stop points it has a tighter turning radius than my B5, way more than is needed even for this smallish indoor track. I ended up reducing steering down to like 70% and brakes down to 50%. It is going to take me some time to relearn jumping with this buggy, the attitude adjustment in the air is far more rapid and responsive than anything I have used before, mostly 2WD buggies.

When I ordered the buggy I bought some of the Losi street tires, figured I could use them around my property when I finished the build and didn't want to ruin the Typo's or Electrons which are normal fair for the indoor clay track I run at. I had left them on the buggy when I got to the track and figured I would use them at first thinking they would be a cheap sacrifice if I hit a corner or pipe. The tires sauced up with some PB I was amazed at how much traction these cheap street tires had, wish I could get that much from the Electrons on my B5. I think I am going to keep running these cheapo tires and leave the expensive ones for a later day.

On the third pack I was starting to push my speeds up and trying to get around the track with a bit more aggressive driving when landing a fairly big step up and slightly over-shooting it, I grabbed a handful of throttle to bring the nose up and get the buggy moving quickly I heard that nasty sound of a spur going to heaven. At that point I had a few things I wanted to work on with my B5 and put the 48.3 away for the day. Tonight I got some time to really inspect what happened and at first I though I had forgot to threadlock the motor plate screws and could see that just the very tips of the teeth on the spur were ground off so I reset the pinion and reapplied some thread lock and set for a fairly tight interface. Buggy on a stand I run it up a couple times and though it is slightly noisier it is running smoothly and I am feeling pretty good. At one point I grab about half throttle, just to see how the center shaft behaves and I see the motor torque heavily outboard. WTH? I do it one more time just to verify what I saw and sure enough the torque this puts out is moving the back end of the motor out a good five degrees and I only held the throttle there for a split second. I think I found the culprit of the tips of the teeth on the spur going poof. The instructions only show two 3mm x 10mm being used, I am guessing most also use the 4mm holes? Sadly no 4mm cap head screws to test it out so I am asking here if 8mm length is enough or should I order some 4mx 10mm?

Last edited by Fasttrak; 09-28-2015 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 09-29-2015, 03:30 AM   #409
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Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
At one point I grab about half throttle, just to see how the center shaft behaves and I see the motor torque heavily outboard. WTH? I do it one more time just to verify what I saw and sure enough the torque this puts out is moving the back end of the motor out a good five degrees and I only held the throttle there for a split second. I think I found the culprit of the tips of the teeth on the spur going poof. The instructions only show two 3mm x 10mm being used, I am guessing most also use the 4mm holes? Sadly no 4mm cap head screws to test it out so I am asking here if 8mm length is enough or should I order some 4mx 10mm?
I wonder if your motor mount has developed some play where the two aluminum pieces come/slide together or if something else there is loose? Can you get the motor to move by hand?
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Old 09-29-2015, 05:31 AM   #410
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
A few ways to get an approximate idea of speed, though certainly not the same for torque. This roughly equates to the number of pinion teeth going past a location over a period of time, but again is not really an accurate measure specifically. I also don't suggest you try to just gear to compensate, as you want a motor/battery combination designed for the application.

16.8x1900x18 = 574560
12.6x1900x? = 574560 24t pinion would get you here
12.6x2200x? = 574560 20-21t pinion would be around this range
12.6x2650x? = 574560 17t pinion would be very close

Of the options you mentioned in later posts, I would choose the 2650 and start with a 17t, going up or down from there based on torque/temps.

Alternatively, become an eBuggy lite and put a good SC motor and stick pack in. You'll most likely be below weight then too. In all cases, just be sure to vent the body well and keep things cool with your drivetrain well maintained and moving freely. The lower the voltage goes, the more important that becomes to keep heat in check.
Very helpful !! Ill try the 21 with the 2200kv and 17 with the 2650kv, Im a bit worried about missing out down low as top speed will not really help but testing will give me a better idea.

Txs again.
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Old 09-29-2015, 06:39 AM   #411
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I wonder if your motor mount has developed some play where the two aluminum pieces come/slide together or if something else there is loose? Can you get the motor to move by hand?
No, the motor mounting plate has a snug fit to the chassis mounted plate it slides into. All of the movement was from the motor torquing away from the motor mounting plate. I checked the two screws holding it in place and they were snug, wouldn't want to torque them down any tighter as it would most likely damage the threads in the aluminum. I am hoping that adding the 4mm screws will solve the problem. Now that I think about it, it could be torquing the entire motor mount assembly away from the spur gear, not really sure at this point and not too certain I want to keep testing to find out what is going on. I might just order the entire system in aluminum and see if that fixes the problem.
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Old 09-29-2015, 06:58 AM   #412
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Can somebody tell if the Hobbywing 150a esc will fit 48.3? I know it's a tight fit in 48.2.
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Old 09-29-2015, 07:03 AM   #413
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The fit will be the same.
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Old 09-29-2015, 09:19 AM   #414
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Can somebody tell if the Hobbywing 150a esc will fit 48.3? I know it's a tight fit in 48.2.
Yes it still fits, it's just tight.
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Old 09-29-2015, 12:31 PM   #415
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Saw on youtube, that's really tight.
If I decide to go with the SCT Pro (rated 120A) which fits just perfect, will I loose some power compared to 150A?
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Old 09-29-2015, 01:40 PM   #416
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Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
No, the motor mounting plate has a snug fit to the chassis mounted plate it slides into. All of the movement was from the motor torquing away from the motor mounting plate. I checked the two screws holding it in place and they were snug, wouldn't want to torque them down any tighter as it would most likely damage the threads in the aluminum. I am hoping that adding the 4mm screws will solve the problem. Now that I think about it, it could be torquing the entire motor mount assembly away from the spur gear, not really sure at this point and not too certain I want to keep testing to find out what is going on. I might just order the entire system in aluminum and see if that fixes the problem.
Check the length of screws you're using and make sure they're not too long. They should be very tight and thread locked when going through the motor mount and into the end bell. I give 'em all I can with a mip driver by hand. Also check the motor itself, as many brands of motors unfortunately have tiny screws from the side into the mounting end bell, rather than from the end bell down the length of the side of the can. Those can also have come loose, and just a TINY bit of that can make the whole motor able to shift under heavy load.
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Old 09-29-2015, 01:41 PM   #417
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Saw on youtube, that's really tight.
If I decide to go with the SCT Pro (rated 120A) which fits just perfect, will I loose some power compared to 150A?
Most folks that run HW are running the SCT Pro for 4s eBuggy. It is lighter, smaller, and works just fine.
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Old 09-29-2015, 02:27 PM   #418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanson View Post
Saw on youtube, that's really tight.
If I decide to go with the SCT Pro (rated 120A) which fits just perfect, will I loose some power compared to 150A?
Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
Most folks that run HW are running the SCT Pro for 4s eBuggy. It is lighter, smaller, and works just fine.
No, you won't lose any power as long as you pay a bit more attention to temps. Just as Poet said, many guys run the SCT-Pro with great success. I've been running the 150amp simply because it works and have had zero issues with it, but have recently replaced it with the new XR8 which blows it out of the water.
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Old 09-29-2015, 06:54 PM   #419
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Check the length of screws you're using and make sure they're not too long. They should be very tight and thread locked when going through the motor mount and into the end bell. I give 'em all I can with a mip driver by hand. Also check the motor itself, as many brands of motors unfortunately have tiny screws from the side into the mounting end bell, rather than from the end bell down the length of the side of the can. Those can also have come loose, and just a TINY bit of that can make the whole motor able to shift under heavy load.
Took everything apart to inspect all the elements of the center diff, and the group of parts that mount to the motor plate assembly. It didn't stand out at first until I went to remove the motor plate and found that there was about a 1mm gap between the plate and the motor. It seems Tekin's front motor plate holes are not all the way through and leaves the 10mm screws that come with the kit about 1mm too long. That gap was enough to let the torque twist the motor away from the plate on heavy acceleration. I think I am just going to get some m4 x 8mm cap head screws and see if those work, might even grab some x6 mm just in case
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Old 09-30-2015, 11:00 PM   #420
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http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-32-Inch.../dp/B000IC26XE

Use these by hand or in a drill. The hole will come out straight and the perfect diameter. You can get them at most hardware stores.
Got some locally for $.89 each. They work great.
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