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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 09-26-2015, 09:30 AM   #391
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I have this clutch also just waiting on the bell. Rcgod dis you have to change the setting on your esc with this ?
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Old 09-26-2015, 09:43 AM   #392
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I have this clutch also just waiting on the bell. Rcgod dis you have to change the setting on your esc with this ?
No. May have to increase brakes slightly because of a little more slip but not always.
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Old 09-26-2015, 09:27 PM   #393
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Hi, newbe advice on electrics if i could.
Our club is running a superlite class, if you don't have a " Superlite " you are allowed to run normal buggy's but on 3s only.
With my .3 if I stick with the 1900kv motor and rx8 gen2 esc would going from 18t pinion to 19 and raising the timing get me close to the same performance as 4s ???

Txs in advance.
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Old 09-26-2015, 10:18 PM   #394
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Originally Posted by rcfanep8 View Post
Hi, newbe advice on electrics if i could.
Our club is running a superlite class, if you don't have a " Superlite " you are allowed to run normal buggy's but on 3s only.
With my .3 if I stick with the 1900kv motor and rx8 gen2 esc would going from 18t pinion to 19 and raising the timing get me close to the same performance as 4s ???

Txs in advance.
Do not think so, I do not have a calculator for these motos like Motocalc for the air frames but you would need something near 2,500 KV to be in the ballpark of what your 4S with a 1,900 kv produces. My math is most likely off a bit but that should be in the neighborhood of what you should be looking for. Adding one tooth is not going to get you there.
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Old 09-26-2015, 10:32 PM   #395
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Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
Do not think so, I do not have a calculator for these motos like Motocalc for the air frames but you would need something near 2,500 KV to be in the ballpark of what your 4S with a 1,900 kv produces. My math is most likely off a bit but that should be in the neighborhood of what you should be looking for. Adding one tooth is not going to get you there.
Would going to a 2200kv or a 2650kv get me closer you think ?? I have a couple of castles I'm not using. What pinion would you recommend trying ??

Would you have a link to the motor calculator ?? Txs

Txs again.

Last edited by rcfanep8; 09-27-2015 at 06:28 AM.
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:53 AM   #396
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bump

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Originally Posted by werner sline View Post
anyone kind enough to measure the suspension travel of the .3 ? front and rear
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Old 09-27-2015, 10:17 AM   #397
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bump
Are you looking for the shock lengths?
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Old 09-27-2015, 02:47 PM   #398
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Are you looking for the shock lengths?
no, the suspension travel ( with the standard setting ). for example, the mugen mbx7r had 55mm suspension travel front, and 60mm rear. ( mesured at the tire )
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Old 09-27-2015, 08:06 PM   #399
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Originally Posted by rcfanep8 View Post
Would going to a 2200kv or a 2650kv get me closer you think ?? I have a couple of castles I'm not using. What pinion would you recommend trying ??

Would you have a link to the motor calculator ?? Txs

Txs again.

Motocalc is software to match brushless motors to propellers for airplanes, not really applicable to off-road buggies but you can learn about efficiency numbers based on size and wind of a given motor as applied against a given load, the propeller. Going too far outside that zone of rpm either under loading or over loading will result in the motor using too much of the watts as heat and not usable propulsion. Using that software for quite a few years and applying to the airplanes I was flying you begin to realize that all motors have their best efficiency in a given range of rpm and torque for a given sized motor diameter and length.

You could probably get that 2,200 KV motor geared to hit the speeds you need but I am guessing it will be running mostly outside it's efficiency range and run hot, not the best way to put those lipos to good use. For the 11.1 volts you plan to run on 3S, I would try and find a motor that has a KV around your second selection, the 2,650 should be fairly easy to gear accordingly and not be forced to use some humungous pinion to get it up to speed like you would on the 1,900 KV motor.

Long winded answer to try and reply to your question on which motor to run on 3S setup. I am going my best educated guess based on 11.1 volts and trying to hit the same rpm range the 1,900 would be run at on a 4S setup, the 2,650 should be fine and you'll just have to play with the pinion size to get into the comfort zone for acceleration and heat management.
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Old 09-27-2015, 09:51 PM   #400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
Motocalc is software to match brushless motors to propellers for airplanes, not really applicable to off-road buggies but you can learn about efficiency numbers based on size and wind of a given motor as applied against a given load, the propeller. Going too far outside that zone of rpm either under loading or over loading will result in the motor using too much of the watts as heat and not usable propulsion. Using that software for quite a few years and applying to the airplanes I was flying you begin to realize that all motors have their best efficiency in a given range of rpm and torque for a given sized motor diameter and length.

You could probably get that 2,200 KV motor geared to hit the speeds you need but I am guessing it will be running mostly outside it's efficiency range and run hot, not the best way to put those lipos to good use. For the 11.1 volts you plan to run on 3S, I would try and find a motor that has a KV around your second selection, the 2,650 should be fairly easy to gear accordingly and not be forced to use some humungous pinion to get it up to speed like you would on the 1,900 KV motor.

Long winded answer to try and reply to your question on which motor to run on 3S setup. I am going my best educated guess based on 11.1 volts and trying to hit the same rpm range the 1,900 would be run at on a 4S setup, the 2,650 should be fine and you'll just have to play with the pinion size to get into the comfort zone for acceleration and heat management.
Txs heaps for this and the inbox advice Fasttrak, I will defiantly try your advice out and let you know how I go. Much appreciated !!
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Old 09-27-2015, 11:02 PM   #401
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no, the suspension travel ( with the standard setting ). for example, the mugen mbx7r had 55mm suspension travel front, and 60mm rear. ( mesured at the tire )
I'm getting 45mm front and 58 rear.
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Old 09-27-2015, 11:57 PM   #402
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Quote:
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I'm getting 45mm front and 58 rear.
really ? full droop to full compression ( even after the chassis bottomed out ) ?

I was expecting a bit more ! the eb48.3 is known for his good suspensions so I was expecting more
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Old 09-28-2015, 12:39 AM   #403
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really ? full droop to full compression ( even after the chassis bottomed out ) ?

I was expecting a bit more ! the eb48.3 is known for his good suspensions so I was expecting more
That's full droop to full compression measured at the axle.
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Old 09-28-2015, 12:53 AM   #404
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That's full droop to full compression measured at the axle.
thank you rcgod, I appreciate
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Old 09-28-2015, 09:30 AM   #405
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Finished my .2 to .3 upgrade, got a chance to run it this weekend.
My first thoughts are that the steering has been tamed down for sure. The shock setup is nice, handles the bumps and jumps great. Need to tweak on the setup a bit more to fit my driving.
Overall happy with the upgrade.
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