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Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 09-23-2015, 11:05 AM
  #361  
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Originally Posted by stanson
3. What about diff pins: TKR5150 vs TKR5150A? Which will last longer and cause less problems? ...
I run the aluminum diff cross pins just for the idea of a lightened drive train. The kit comes with the steel ones.

The aluminum ones that are in my .2 were installed just as these were available and are still in use today, with little to no wear at all.

Not a "must have" by any means, but this is one area where you can shave weight and rotating mass without the worry of accelerated wear. The steel ones never failed for the year+ that I ran them as well. Either way, these shouldn't be an area of concern. This, like the rest of the car is as tough as the Losi in terms of breakage, but seems to get less sloppy over time.

Great car. Great company. Great customer service.
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Old 09-23-2015, 01:08 PM
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I am pretty sure the cross pins are really only there for assembly purposes, after that they are just along for the ride.
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Old 09-23-2015, 01:51 PM
  #363  
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Originally Posted by vwduud
I run the aluminum diff cross pins just for the idea of a lightened drive train. The kit comes with the steel ones.

The aluminum ones that are in my .2 were installed just as these were available and are still in use today, with little to no wear at all.

Not a "must have" by any means, but this is one area where you can shave weight and rotating mass without the worry of accelerated wear. The steel ones never failed for the year+ that I ran them as well. Either way, these shouldn't be an area of concern. This, like the rest of the car is as tough as the Losi in terms of breakage, but seems to get less sloppy over time.

Great car. Great company. Great customer service.
Pretty sure the cross-pins are just static weight, the bevels rotate the pins are stationary. Probably an area I would leave in steel but, not that big of a deal either way and if you're shaving weight, everything matters.
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Old 09-23-2015, 01:51 PM
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I bent a shock shaft last race, honestly, not a really big hit either... must have just hit just right... either way, i'd like to upgrade to the TiNi shafts but i'm not sure which length to get. On the Tekno site for option parts it lists 3 sizes - 107mm, 122mm, and 137mm... What's the proper lengths for the EB48.3 front and rear? Thanks!
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:08 PM
  #365  
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Originally Posted by HoldDaMayo
I bent a shock shaft last race, honestly, not a really big hit either... must have just hit just right... either way, i'd like to upgrade to the TiNi shafts but i'm not sure which length to get. On the Tekno site for option parts it lists 3 sizes - 107mm, 122mm, and 137mm... What's the proper lengths for the EB48.3 front and rear? Thanks!
122mm front, 137mm rear
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Fasttrak
Pretty sure the cross-pins are just static weight, the bevels rotate the pins are stationary. Probably an area I would leave in steel but, not that big of a deal either way and if you're shaving weight, everything matters.
Since the whole diff rotates (along with the internal pins and gears), the lighter diff pins affect both the static weight and the rotational weight.
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:06 PM
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Just ordered one of these. Switching From a Losi to match the rest of my Tekno fleet. Can't wait to get it out on the track.
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Old 09-24-2015, 02:36 AM
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Could someone please link to 1x8 pistons or give the part number? Blind or something, can't find them.
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Old 09-24-2015, 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by stanson
Could someone please link to 1x8 pistons or give the part number? Blind or something, can't find them.
I don't think I've ever seen a 1x8 piston...

Most of the common pistons are 8x1.3, 6x1.5, 4x1.8
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by vwduud
Since the whole diff rotates (along with the internal pins and gears), the lighter diff pins affect both the static weight and the rotational weight.

Yes they do, not sure why but I was just picturing the inner diff and how it functions and not how it is installed and used in the drive train.

Funny as later that same day a package arrived and I got to build three 1/8th scale diffs last night. Pretty surprised how much mass those three diffs have filled with oil. This hardware is quite a bit more stout than my experiences with 1/12th and 1/10th scale vehicles.

So far I am really impressed with the fit and finish on this kit, it is going together very smoothly. The only tricky part with the diffs is getting that damn pin into the out-drive to diff casing connection, fat fingers make it a chore.
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:23 AM
  #371  
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Use needle nose pliers to get those pins in the diff case.
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Old 09-24-2015, 08:14 AM
  #372  
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Default New Products Now Available

Hi guys,

I just wanted to share our latest products here:

First of all we have our Multi-Purpose Shock/Ball End Tool:





Main Features are:
  • Precision CNC machined high quality aluminum
  • Best tool for shock building and pivot balls / rod ends
  • Two tone anodized finish
  • Laser etched size and tool indications
  • Comfortable and easy to use




Also new Front and rear Sway bars:



Details:

TKR5095 – Sway Bar (front, 2.9mm, EB.3/NB.3/SL/SCT.3)
TKR5094 – Sway Bar (front, 2.7mm, EB.3/NB.3/SL/SCT.3)
TKR5093 – Sway Bar (front, 2.1mm, EB.3/NB.3/SL/SCT.3)
TKR5092 – Sway Bar (front, 2.0mm, EB.3/NB.3/SL/SCT.3)




Details:

TKR5499 – Sway Bar (rear, 2.9mm, EB.3/NB.3/SL/SCT.3/ET/NT)
TKR5498 – Sway Bar (rear, 2.7mm, EB.3/NB.3/SL/SCT.3/ET/NT)
TKR5497 – Sway Bar (rear, 2.2mm, EB.3/NB.3/SL/SCT.3/ET/NT)
TKR5496 – Sway Bar (rear, 2.1mm, EB.3/NB.3/SL/SCT.3/ET/NT)


Products are now in stock and available for purchase.
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Old 09-24-2015, 08:50 AM
  #373  
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Already ordered from Pete.

Originally Posted by Ilias
Hi guys,

I just wanted to share our latest products here:

First of all we have our Multi-Purpose Shock/Ball End Tool:





Main Features are:
  • Precision CNC machined high quality aluminum
  • Best tool for shock building and pivot balls / rod ends
  • Two tone anodized finish
  • Laser etched size and tool indications
  • Comfortable and easy to use
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Old 09-24-2015, 09:03 PM
  #374  
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I am at step J-4, the steering rack assembly, and something seems off to me.

They show the washers being under the ball between the head of the screw and the ball. How does that change the bumpsteer? Shouldn't the washers be between the ball and the steering rack to change the bumpsteer?
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Old 09-24-2015, 09:11 PM
  #375  
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Originally Posted by Fasttrak
I am at step J-4, the steering rack assembly, and something seems off to me.

They show the washers being under the ball between the head of the screw and the ball. How does that change the bumpsteer? Shouldn't the washers be between the ball and the steering rack to change the bumpsteer?
Stock setup has no washers between ball and rack. Use the extra washers on the other end of the ball to keep the screw from rubbing the underside of the top plate and as a convenient place to keep them for when you want to change the bump steer.
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