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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 02-01-2017, 11:00 AM   #2806
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Originally Posted by Derrick87 View Post
Should i get a 14tooth pinion gear if im running a 1900kv?
Depending on size track, 17-19. I usually ran 18t everywhere.
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:01 AM   #2807
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Joe will the .3 rear hubs fit on the .4 arms to allow the use of cvd's (at least in the rear)?
I would say no, the .3 CVD's just won't be long enough
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:09 AM   #2808
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Joe will the .3 rear hubs fit on the .4 arms to allow the use of cvd's (at least in the rear)?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
There's only two differences between the .4 front arms and the .3 front arms, the outside uses a hingepin to retain the spindle carrier and the inside has the middle of the arm the removed to free up the suspension.
You can't use the old spindle carriers and the new front arms together since the hole sizes won't work together. The new rear arms also won't work without the new rear hubs since it's a new offset. And if you're going to run the new rear hubs you have to use the new universals. Same thing in the front, the arms, carriers, spindles, and unis all have to be used together.
If you're going to upgrade in stages you'll have to do the entire rear suspension with driveshafts, the entire front with driveshafts, the whole steering assembly, the new gearing, and the new shock parts. I think that's it .
Doesn't look like it'll work.
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Old 02-01-2017, 12:30 PM   #2809
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Originally Posted by latentspeed View Post
It is. You get quieter smoother universal driveshafts, quieter smoother ring and pinion, then there's shock cap and springs. I'm tired of saying it but steering is far better. Don't know if the wide rear hinge pin brace improves handling, but the screw that secures it now uses 2.5 driver, which eases the mind because the 2.0 screw looks as if it will strip out after going through the gearbox a few times. I see no use for the new spindle carriers. The ball bearings there only add weight and bearings can't be cleaned out from dust. The .3 is easy to clean that area and I bet the bearings don't improve performance on the. 4

Bottom line, there are updates that make the .4 worth getting. If you were to get the .3 and upgrade it to the .4 you'd be spending more money then just getting the. 4. Pay $5 for the super saver club at tower and you get several coupon codes, one if the codes gives you $75 off if you spend at least $499.

I wish I waited for the .4 instead of getting the .3 for $360. Right now .4 is $550+$5 supersaver membership-$75 off and you pay $480. Last month I think there was $90 off.

If you go with the .3 just get the updated ackerman plate, bellcrank steering and two 3x10 button head screws. Should be good enough. Maybe even as good.
Your talking tower hobbies right? There out of stock right now actually everywhere is out of stock but when they come back in im prob gonna do what you said and just get the .4 lol
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Last edited by Derrick87; 02-01-2017 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:06 PM   #2810
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Your talking tower hobbies right? There out of stock right now actually everywhere is out of stock but when they come back in im prob gonna do what you said and just get the .4 lol
Nice. Absolute Hobbyz has them for $550, with $55 discount, but they're out of stock too. You can also backorder it at tower and you'll get the first batch when they come in so there's no need to keep checking online to see if it's in stock. Will just deliver to you when in stock.
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Old 02-02-2017, 04:32 AM   #2811
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Even if though it is unconventional I ordered the F/R hubs, spindles, uni's, outer hinge pins and bearings to make it work.
So even after you get all these upgrades on your EB, you're still just going to race the SL
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Old 02-02-2017, 10:42 AM   #2812
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So even after you get all these upgrades on your EB, you're still just going to race the SL
Very likely on indoor at least, it just works better for me. To add insult to upgrade injury I just assembled the new C, D hinge pin holders and the rear gearbox won't drop in the recessed chassis area without the C plate hitting the back of the battery tray. The .4 Chassis must also be slightly longer or have things offset compared to the .3 Chassis. My $300.00 upgrade just turned into a $400.00 upgrade due to the need for a new Chassis.

Do Not Upgrade your .3 to a .4, unless of course the kits are out of stock and the parts are readily available...
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Last edited by suzukipro; 02-02-2017 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 02-02-2017, 11:51 AM   #2813
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Very likely on indoor at least, it just works better for me. To add insult to upgrade injury I just assembled the new C, D hinge pin holders and the rear gearbox won't drop in the recessed chassis area without the C plate hitting the back of the battery tray. The .4 Chassis must also be slightly longer or have things offset compared to the .3 Chassis. My $300.00 upgrade just turned into a $400.00 upgrade due to the need for a new Chassis.

Do Not Upgrade your .3 to a .4, unless of course the kits are out of stock and the parts are readily available...
Yeah, i was going to convert my 410.3 into an SL. I saw a thread on here about it and did the math. Made sense to just buy an SL IMO.
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Old 02-02-2017, 11:59 AM   #2814
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Yeah, i was going to convert my 410.3 into an SL. I saw a thread on here about it and did the math. Made sense to just buy an SL IMO.
Actually the 410.3 to SL is actually pretty affordable, you just need to get the 17mm hex adaptors, a front bumper, Buggy body and wing and you're pretty much there.
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:04 PM   #2815
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Very likely on indoor at least, it just works better for me. To add insult to upgrade injury I just assembled the new C, D hinge pin holders and the rear gearbox won't drop in the recessed chassis area without the C plate hitting the back of the battery tray. The .4 Chassis must also be slightly longer or have things offset compared to the .3 Chassis. My $300.00 upgrade just turned into a $400.00 upgrade due to the need for a new Chassis.

Do Not Upgrade your .3 to a .4, unless of course the kits are out of stock and the parts are readily available...
Someone mentioned that on the .4 thread I think. You should be able to just trim away a bit of the plastic to clear the C block.
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:09 PM   #2816
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
Someone mentioned that on the .4 thread I think. You should be able to just trim away a bit of the plastic to clear the C block.

That was me and it was not needed, late night build turned me into a temporary idiot and I put the C block on backwards,,,(countersunk holes to wrong side) lol.
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Old 02-02-2017, 03:29 PM   #2817
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Someone mentioned that on the .4 thread I think. You should be able to just trim away a bit of the plastic to clear the C block.
I have the M2C chassis on my .3 and it isn't even close to fitting aside from the drop screw plates. I'd have to cut int the receiver box to get the C block to fit.
A new .4 Chassis has been ordered and the only thing that'll carry over from the .3 will be the differentials, and A/B hinge pin holders.

What started in theory out as good plan to only upgrade a couple items on my .3 has turned into an almost full on .4 conversion, things weren't as compatible as I thought they would be
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Old 02-02-2017, 04:56 PM   #2818
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Yup I added all the upgrades in my cart to convert the .3 to .4 and it came up to over $400. That's without the new chassis.

I'm starting to feel spoiled with the stable feel of the .4 steering. It's so good and easy to drive, its like I'm playing a video game. Think I'll be going back and forth .4 and .3 steering when I just want a different steering feel. But when it's race time the .4 steering is on for sure. With the updated steering, it drives as stable as my old kyosho fs2 but with much more steering and responsiveness. Some companies struggle to get a stable car when it steers hard, or don't have enough steering to maintain stability, but there is no compromise here. My .3 with the outdoor setup and .4 steering is super stable with a bit of rotation that is very predictable and easy to control, works in sync with the steering. The .4 has wider hinge pin braces to make it even more stable, but might be too stable with how I read at the .4 thread about someone not getting enough steering. That's just one guy though. I didn't read all the thoughts and comments there.
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Old 02-02-2017, 06:26 PM   #2819
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
I have the M2C chassis on my .3 and it isn't even close to fitting aside from the drop screw plates. I'd have to cut int the receiver box to get the C block to fit.
A new .4 Chassis has been ordered and the only thing that'll carry over from the .3 will be the differentials, and A/B hinge pin holders.

What started in theory out as good plan to only upgrade a couple items on my .3 has turned into an almost full on .4 conversion, things weren't as compatible as I thought they would be
can you post pics of how it doesn't fit, I was thinking of trying to do the same upgrades and need to decide if its a waste of time before buying anything.
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Old 02-02-2017, 08:04 PM   #2820
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can you post pics of how it doesn't fit, I was thinking of trying to do the same upgrades and need to decide if its a waste of time before buying anything.
I'll post some up when I get a chance, but the gear box won't seat into the .3 chassis due to the C hinge pin holder interfering with the back of the receiver box screw area. Also the Droop screw tabs are useless on the narrower .3 chassis with the .4 arms are to be utilized. Also in order to use the .4 arms new universals and hubs and outer hinge pins are required.

The Ackerman plate and bell cranks are a worthy upgrade, but I believe anything other add on's wouldn't be cost effective compared to just buying a new EB48.4 kit.
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