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Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-28-2017, 09:56 PM
  #2776  
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installed the new steering and ackerman plate. Such a big difference. Really big improvement. Still a lot of steering without feeling twitchy. It's a must have. All those who didn't like how aggressive the .3 was might change their mind with the updated steering. The buggy can drive much harder. The old steering somewhat prevented hard driving and confidence, but this update makes a very positive difference.

Most brands don't change their steering feel, but I'm glad tekno is willing to make changes for the better.

Other than the ackerman plate, steering bellcrank and two 3x10mm screws, cutting out extra space in the body for the new steering needs to be done. I'd recommend getting shorter turnbuckles because I have them as tight as possible without digging into the pivitballs, yet still getting toe in.
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Old 01-29-2017, 12:03 PM
  #2777  
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I'm really interested to see how much of a difference the .4 steering changes really make. Everyone makes it sound like a great improvement.
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Old 01-29-2017, 04:10 PM
  #2778  
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The steering links are a slight improvement, but the wider end plates and arms will be the other part of the equation to help settle down the rear of any .3's. I've read that the team drivers are no longer using the steering stop screws/4 washers in the front spindles as the rear end coming around isn't an issue on the EB48.4.
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Old 01-30-2017, 12:22 AM
  #2779  
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Originally Posted by suzukipro
The steering links are a slight improvement, but the wider end plates and arms will be the other part of the equation to help settle down the rear of any .3's. I've read that the team drivers are no longer using the steering stop screws/4 washers in the front spindles as the rear end coming around isn't an issue on the EB48.4.
Steering links? Like I said, I did not read this somewhere. I actually got the Ackerman plate days ago and from testing that alone settled the whole car down. I changed nothing in the setup when swapping out Ackerman plates. Steering is strong, but not twitchy where it used to swing the car around. It's something you can feel when actually driving it.
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Old 01-30-2017, 05:54 AM
  #2780  
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Originally Posted by suzukipro
The steering links are a slight improvement, but the wider end plates and arms will be the other part of the equation to help settle down the rear of any .3's. I've read that the team drivers are no longer using the steering stop screws/4 washers in the front spindles as the rear end coming around isn't an issue on the EB48.4.
The .3 recommended three washers under the steering stop screw. The .4 build recommends one washer. Looks like steering throw is much more controllable with the new steering setup.

Per the Manual: NOTE: The steering stops provide adjustable travel limiters to control overall steering throw. We recommend 1 washer on each side. With too much steering travel,
the rear end will lose traction around corners, the vehicle will be very hard to drive and it will be more prone to breaking parts.
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Old 01-30-2017, 08:06 AM
  #2781  
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Originally Posted by latentspeed
installed the new steering and ackerman plate. Such a big difference. Really big improvement. Still a lot of steering without feeling twitchy. It's a must have. All those who didn't like how aggressive the .3 was might change their mind with the updated steering. The buggy can drive much harder. The old steering somewhat prevented hard driving and confidence, but this update makes a very positive difference.

Most brands don't change their steering feel, but I'm glad tekno is willing to make changes for the better.

Other than the ackerman plate, steering bellcrank and two 3x10mm screws, cutting out extra space in the body for the new steering needs to be done. I'd recommend getting shorter turnbuckles because I have them as tight as possible without digging into the pivitballs, yet still getting toe in.
Try cutting 3mm off each end, or grab links that are 6mm shorter.

I grabbed lunsford links 6mm shorter to do the conversion on my SCT.
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Old 01-30-2017, 10:33 AM
  #2782  
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Originally Posted by latentspeed
Steering links? Like I said, I did not read this somewhere. I actually got the Ackerman plate days ago and from testing that alone settled the whole car down. I changed nothing in the setup when swapping out Ackerman plates. Steering is strong, but not twitchy where it used to swing the car around. It's something you can feel when actually driving it.
Sorry for my use of slang, I was referring to the new ackerman plate, bell cranks & shortened steering links.
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Old 01-30-2017, 01:14 PM
  #2783  
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Originally Posted by suzukipro
Sorry for my use of slang, I was referring to the new ackerman plate, bell cranks & shortened steering links.
It's all good
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Old 01-30-2017, 01:19 PM
  #2784  
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Originally Posted by ezlight
Try cutting 3mm off each end, or grab links that are 6mm shorter.

I grabbed lunsford links 6mm shorter to do the conversion on my SCT.
Yeah I plan on getting some lunsford turnbuckles. Right now I'm getting a bit of toe in, but I still haven't removed the steering stop washers so that might balance it out a bit for now.
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Old 01-30-2017, 03:52 PM
  #2785  
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Today I ordered the new .4 A arms (F&R), C & D hinge pin holders, composite shock caps (for emulsion) and shock stand offs. This should give my .3 all of the benefits of the .4's geometry and improved handling for under a $150.00. I think I'll be fine without the new internal gearing, front spindle bearings and universals.
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Old 01-30-2017, 03:53 PM
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Today I ordered the new .4 A arms (F&R), C & D hinge pin holders, composite shock caps (for emulsion) shock stand offs and 4 hole pistons. This should give my .3 all of the benefits of the .4's handling for under a $150.00. I think I'll be fine without the new internal gearing, front spindle bearings and universals.
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Old 01-30-2017, 04:35 PM
  #2787  
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Update on the jconcepts s1 body.

Switched to the outer hole on my tekno servo horn. The s1 body does not have space for it. That's with the updated steering. Too bad because performance wise handling improved. I did cut out that area but now it's split between the center and right side, up front.

Didn't have problems when using the inner hole with the older ackerman plate. Hopefully there will be aftermarket bodies for the .4
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Old 01-30-2017, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ezlight
Try cutting 3mm off each end, or grab links that are 6mm shorter.

I grabbed lunsford links 6mm shorter to do the conversion on my SCT.
got a part # for those Lunsford links?
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Old 01-30-2017, 05:04 PM
  #2789  
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Originally Posted by suzukipro
Today I ordered the new .4 A arms (F&R), C & D hinge pin holders, composite shock caps (for emulsion) and shock stand offs. This should give my .3 all of the benefits of the .4's geometry and improved handling for under a $150.00. I think I'll be fine without the new internal gearing, front spindle bearings and universals.
There's only two differences between the .4 front arms and the .3 front arms, the outside uses a hingepin to retain the spindle carrier and the inside has the middle of the arm the removed to free up the suspension.
You can't use the old spindle carriers and the new front arms together since the hole sizes won't work together. The new rear arms also won't work without the new rear hubs since it's a new offset. And if you're going to run the new rear hubs you have to use the new universals. Same thing in the front, the arms, carriers, spindles, and unis all have to be used together.
If you're going to upgrade in stages you'll have to do the entire rear suspension with driveshafts, the entire front with driveshafts, the whole steering assembly, the new gearing, and the new shock parts. I think that's it .
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Old 01-30-2017, 06:46 PM
  #2790  
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Hmm, I made this purchase based on the following compatibility descritpion listed on the sellers web site.

"TKR8184 – Suspension Arms (rear, EB/NB48.4)
These arms have a new design that shifts the shock mounting point out towards the wheel for added high speed stability. These are backwards compatible with the original EB/NB but must be used in conjunction with the new front shock tower (TKR5269). Original rear hubs are NOT compatible. These must be used in conjuction with the newer .3 hubs (TKR5199/TKR5199A).

Note: these arms are not left right compatible.
"

I have the Rear .3 hubs and the .3 HRC hubs already and will assemble them and see what happens I guess. If this fails I'll have to consider spending some more money


Last edited by suzukipro; 01-30-2017 at 08:45 PM.
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