Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread >

Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree22Likes

Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: MattDub
Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-17-2017, 09:39 AM
  #2746  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default Center Brace

In all Tekno vehicles including EB48.3, there is a front and rear mounting points on top of the stock front and rear chassis brace.

I developed bar made out of carbon fiber to reinforce the chassis flex. It will be like a center connecting chassis brace.

My engineering degree tells me it will serve the purpose of preventing the center shaft drive from bending in bad crashes.
Also it is a good mounting bar for a motor cooling fan.



Does anyone have in-depth experience or knowledge behind the center brace on RC cars?

BMW M3 and M4 have huge carbon fiber brace in the front hood as a strut bar
Would center brace help with durability or sensitivity in the handling?

Anyone who can explain benefits and cons would be appreciated.
Any input would be great because I am trying to develop the prototype for fellow TEKNO drivers.
kms7852 is offline  
Old 01-17-2017, 09:51 AM
  #2747  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
jmcelroy42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,079
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Most of us racing actually don't even run the center or rear brace. The chassis flex helps gain traction.
jmcelroy42 is offline  
Old 01-17-2017, 10:53 AM
  #2748  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jmcelroy42
Most of us racing actually don't even run the center or rear brace. The chassis flex helps gain traction.
Oh... I see. So chassis Flex is helpful at times. Thanks for the input!

I wonder how the durability is without the stock center or rear chassis brace installed. Any experience?
kms7852 is offline  
Old 01-17-2017, 11:07 AM
  #2749  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
EbbTide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 4,264
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by kms7852
Oh... I see. So chassis Flex is helpful at times. Thanks for the input!

I wonder how the durability is without the stock center or rear chassis brace installed. Any experience?
In my experience Tekno vehicles are pretty rock solid even without one of the braces. But I mean if you smash into a wall at speed, something is bound to happen lol. I've never run with all of them removed though.
EbbTide is offline  
Old 01-17-2017, 11:11 AM
  #2750  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

I see, no one had issues with center drive bending from large jumps? or outdrives chipping?

I had few guys on this forum mention that before but I didn't hear much. I guess my chassis brace will serve the purpose mainly for motor fan mount.
kms7852 is offline  
Old 01-17-2017, 11:17 AM
  #2751  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
EbbTide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 4,264
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by kms7852
I see, no one had issues with center drive bending from large jumps? or outdrives chipping?

I had few guys on this forum mention that before but I didn't hear much. I guess my chassis brace will serve the purpose mainly for motor fan mount.
Surprisingly I have never even had to replace an out drive or drive shaft on any of my old Tekno kits. My eb48sl is brand new and I really haven't been able to put it through the paces yet. But my old et48 and my old sct410 never needed a new out drive or drive shaft. And I bashed the heck out of the et48. The SCT410 was strictly for the track though.

But truthfully I think the chassis brace is a good idea but more for certain tracks where there aren't a lot of high frequency bumps like you get on dirt or rougher clay tracks. I could see the brace working better for carpet or turf
EbbTide is offline  
Old 01-17-2017, 11:27 AM
  #2752  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

oh wow I'm glad I chose TEKNO because I'll be saving $$ on those outdrive and driveshafts!
Thanks for the input. Yes I'll try it out carpet or turf and see how that works too. It's hard for a novice guy like me to feel the subtle difference of chassis flex.
kms7852 is offline  
Old 01-18-2017, 09:34 PM
  #2753  
Tech Apprentice
 
Ruffdog1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 73
Default

Is it worth buying the new ackermann plate for my eb48.3 and et48.3? For those who have tried the new ackermann, what are the advantages and differences from the old plate?
Ruffdog1 is offline  
Old 01-19-2017, 12:34 AM
  #2754  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (33)
 
suzukipro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 918
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Ruffdog1
Is it worth buying the new ackermann plate for my eb48.3 and et48.3? For those who have tried the new ackermann, what are the advantages and differences from the old plate?
I installed it on my SCT410.3, but I also threw a completely different set up on it. My first thought was it was better than before, but I'm not sure it can be attributed to the ackerman alone. I have another ackerman I have yet to install on my .3, but I don't drive it much in winter as my EB48.2-SL is faster indoors
suzukipro is offline  
Old 01-22-2017, 03:06 AM
  #2755  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 328
Default

Tested the jconcepts s1 body yesterday. Switched between that and the stock body a few times. There is a difference in handling. With the s1 body the car felt more planted, more downforce. Plus I could drive harder due to it being more stable around corners. Seriously a must have for serious racers. Not exaggerating.
latentspeed is offline  
Old 01-22-2017, 03:56 AM
  #2756  
Tech Elite
 
werner sline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,996
Default

good job ! I also built a center brace with a steel pipe because I bent a center driveshaft. My channel will tell you why I need this...
the tekno are indeed very durable which is incredible because they are also very stiff ! I made my mugen very durable with soft parts !

Originally Posted by kms7852
In all Tekno vehicles including EB48.3, there is a front and rear mounting points on top of the stock front and rear chassis brace.

I developed bar made out of carbon fiber to reinforce the chassis flex. It will be like a center connecting chassis brace.

My engineering degree tells me it will serve the purpose of preventing the center shaft drive from bending in bad crashes.
Also it is a good mounting bar for a motor cooling fan.



Does anyone have in-depth experience or knowledge behind the center brace on RC cars?

BMW M3 and M4 have huge carbon fiber brace in the front hood as a strut bar
Would center brace help with durability or sensitivity in the handling?

Anyone who can explain benefits and cons would be appreciated.
Any input would be great because I am trying to develop the prototype for fellow TEKNO drivers.
werner sline is offline  
Old 01-22-2017, 04:44 AM
  #2757  
Tech Initiate
 
Hadz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Toowoomba, QLD, Australia
Posts: 29
Default

I really enjoyed building the EB48.3, quality components, nice tolerances just went together smoothly. Appreciated all the advice and tips I found on this forum which certainly helped. So far only managed a few runs and club days but really impressed with the durability.

I've optioned up a few parts and running the Outdoor setup on a med bite outdoor track slightly dusty. The car jumps and lands very nicely but is a little loose in the rear mid corner so trying the dial it down a fair bit so that I have more control and get some consistency.

Only part that I consider average quality are the shock boots, two where split before I even ran the buggy and the other two where went soon after.
I trialled a few other brand boots and found the Team Associated boots for the RC8 (Pt No:ASC89058 / ASC89059) fit nicely and are more durable, look good too.
Attached Thumbnails Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread-20160916_1749551.jpg  
Hadz is offline  
Old 01-22-2017, 07:39 AM
  #2758  
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 1,486
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

I will say, the stock boots feel slightly thinner than the spare parts boots. There are a few tricks to keep them in good shape including doing the same thing you do for tires. Take a leather punch and put a 2mm or so hole near the very top, right below the support ring. This allows air in and out as the shock is compressed/decompressed. When you assemble it, keep that pointing to the back.
RokleM is offline  
Old 01-22-2017, 02:10 PM
  #2759  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default Thanks!

Originally Posted by werner sline
good job ! I also built a center brace with a steel pipe because I bent a center driveshaft. My channel will tell you why I need this...
the tekno are indeed very durable which is incredible because they are also very stiff ! I made my mugen very durable with soft parts !
Thanks! What's your channel? I would like to check it out
kms7852 is offline  
Old 01-22-2017, 05:04 PM
  #2760  
Tech Apprentice
 
Ruffdog1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 73
Default

I have always run all 3 chassis braces. I know a lot of people run the front brace only. I have not tried it for fear of breaking something since there are a few big jumps at our track. For those who have run it with and without the braces, is is much better without the center and rear braces? Thanks in advance!
Ruffdog1 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.