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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-17-2017, 09:39 AM   #2746
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Default Center Brace

In all Tekno vehicles including EB48.3, there is a front and rear mounting points on top of the stock front and rear chassis brace.

I developed bar made out of carbon fiber to reinforce the chassis flex. It will be like a center connecting chassis brace.

My engineering degree tells me it will serve the purpose of preventing the center shaft drive from bending in bad crashes.
Also it is a good mounting bar for a motor cooling fan.



Does anyone have in-depth experience or knowledge behind the center brace on RC cars?

BMW M3 and M4 have huge carbon fiber brace in the front hood as a strut bar
Would center brace help with durability or sensitivity in the handling?

Anyone who can explain benefits and cons would be appreciated.
Any input would be great because I am trying to develop the prototype for fellow TEKNO drivers.
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:51 AM   #2747
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Most of us racing actually don't even run the center or rear brace. The chassis flex helps gain traction.
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Old 01-17-2017, 10:53 AM   #2748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
Most of us racing actually don't even run the center or rear brace. The chassis flex helps gain traction.
Oh... I see. So chassis Flex is helpful at times. Thanks for the input!

I wonder how the durability is without the stock center or rear chassis brace installed. Any experience?
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Old 01-17-2017, 11:07 AM   #2749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kms7852 View Post
Oh... I see. So chassis Flex is helpful at times. Thanks for the input!

I wonder how the durability is without the stock center or rear chassis brace installed. Any experience?
In my experience Tekno vehicles are pretty rock solid even without one of the braces. But I mean if you smash into a wall at speed, something is bound to happen lol. I've never run with all of them removed though.
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Old 01-17-2017, 11:11 AM   #2750
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I see, no one had issues with center drive bending from large jumps? or outdrives chipping?

I had few guys on this forum mention that before but I didn't hear much. I guess my chassis brace will serve the purpose mainly for motor fan mount.
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Old 01-17-2017, 11:17 AM   #2751
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kms7852 View Post
I see, no one had issues with center drive bending from large jumps? or outdrives chipping?

I had few guys on this forum mention that before but I didn't hear much. I guess my chassis brace will serve the purpose mainly for motor fan mount.
Surprisingly I have never even had to replace an out drive or drive shaft on any of my old Tekno kits. My eb48sl is brand new and I really haven't been able to put it through the paces yet. But my old et48 and my old sct410 never needed a new out drive or drive shaft. And I bashed the heck out of the et48. The SCT410 was strictly for the track though.

But truthfully I think the chassis brace is a good idea but more for certain tracks where there aren't a lot of high frequency bumps like you get on dirt or rougher clay tracks. I could see the brace working better for carpet or turf
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Old 01-17-2017, 11:27 AM   #2752
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oh wow I'm glad I chose TEKNO because I'll be saving $$ on those outdrive and driveshafts!
Thanks for the input. Yes I'll try it out carpet or turf and see how that works too. It's hard for a novice guy like me to feel the subtle difference of chassis flex.
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Old 01-18-2017, 09:34 PM   #2753
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Is it worth buying the new ackermann plate for my eb48.3 and et48.3? For those who have tried the new ackermann, what are the advantages and differences from the old plate?
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Old 01-19-2017, 12:34 AM   #2754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruffdog1 View Post
Is it worth buying the new ackermann plate for my eb48.3 and et48.3? For those who have tried the new ackermann, what are the advantages and differences from the old plate?
I installed it on my SCT410.3, but I also threw a completely different set up on it. My first thought was it was better than before, but I'm not sure it can be attributed to the ackerman alone. I have another ackerman I have yet to install on my .3, but I don't drive it much in winter as my EB48.2-SL is faster indoors
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Old 01-22-2017, 03:06 AM   #2755
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Tested the jconcepts s1 body yesterday. Switched between that and the stock body a few times. There is a difference in handling. With the s1 body the car felt more planted, more downforce. Plus I could drive harder due to it being more stable around corners. Seriously a must have for serious racers. Not exaggerating.
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Old 01-22-2017, 03:56 AM   #2756
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good job ! I also built a center brace with a steel pipe because I bent a center driveshaft. My channel will tell you why I need this...
the tekno are indeed very durable which is incredible because they are also very stiff ! I made my mugen very durable with soft parts !

Quote:
Originally Posted by kms7852 View Post
In all Tekno vehicles including EB48.3, there is a front and rear mounting points on top of the stock front and rear chassis brace.

I developed bar made out of carbon fiber to reinforce the chassis flex. It will be like a center connecting chassis brace.

My engineering degree tells me it will serve the purpose of preventing the center shaft drive from bending in bad crashes.
Also it is a good mounting bar for a motor cooling fan.



Does anyone have in-depth experience or knowledge behind the center brace on RC cars?

BMW M3 and M4 have huge carbon fiber brace in the front hood as a strut bar
Would center brace help with durability or sensitivity in the handling?

Anyone who can explain benefits and cons would be appreciated.
Any input would be great because I am trying to develop the prototype for fellow TEKNO drivers.
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Old 01-22-2017, 04:44 AM   #2757
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I really enjoyed building the EB48.3, quality components, nice tolerances just went together smoothly. Appreciated all the advice and tips I found on this forum which certainly helped. So far only managed a few runs and club days but really impressed with the durability.

I've optioned up a few parts and running the Outdoor setup on a med bite outdoor track slightly dusty. The car jumps and lands very nicely but is a little loose in the rear mid corner so trying the dial it down a fair bit so that I have more control and get some consistency.

Only part that I consider average quality are the shock boots, two where split before I even ran the buggy and the other two where went soon after.
I trialled a few other brand boots and found the Team Associated boots for the RC8 (Pt No:ASC89058 / ASC89059) fit nicely and are more durable, look good too.
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Old 01-22-2017, 07:39 AM   #2758
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I will say, the stock boots feel slightly thinner than the spare parts boots. There are a few tricks to keep them in good shape including doing the same thing you do for tires. Take a leather punch and put a 2mm or so hole near the very top, right below the support ring. This allows air in and out as the shock is compressed/decompressed. When you assemble it, keep that pointing to the back.
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Old 01-22-2017, 02:10 PM   #2759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by werner sline View Post
good job ! I also built a center brace with a steel pipe because I bent a center driveshaft. My channel will tell you why I need this...
the tekno are indeed very durable which is incredible because they are also very stiff ! I made my mugen very durable with soft parts !
Thanks! What's your channel? I would like to check it out
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Old 01-22-2017, 05:04 PM   #2760
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I have always run all 3 chassis braces. I know a lot of people run the front brace only. I have not tried it for fear of breaking something since there are a few big jumps at our track. For those who have run it with and without the braces, is is much better without the center and rear braces? Thanks in advance!
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