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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-10-2017, 06:38 AM   #2731
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
Does anyone know if the .3 hubs fit the OG .1 arms fine? the ones with the 2 different inner/outer pivot locations?
I know this was what Eric was worried about not working on his setup.
Yes, they work fine. They basically just eliminated the inner pivot hole on the .3 arms.
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:21 AM   #2732
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Originally Posted by Tampagoalie View Post
Definitely the .3 rear hubs and C-hubs and 4 more bearings (same size as outer bearings). The Tekno unis are great but the Associated RC8.3B unis fit and cost less. Also, Kyosho unis fit, but you have to use Kyosho hexes with them 'cause the pin is smaller.
Did the Kyosho Uni's work on the original EB48 hubs/spindles? If so I could drill the hex pin hole to the correct size.
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Old 01-10-2017, 11:26 AM   #2733
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Did the Kyosho Uni's work on the original EB48 hubs/spindles? If so I could drill the hex pin hole to the correct size.
How much are the Kyoshoas? $42.99 on Fiecerc, and spend over 99 and get free shipping. So add more tekno parts, and your good.
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Old 01-10-2017, 02:34 PM   #2734
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Did the Kyosho Uni's work on the original EB48 hubs/spindles? If so I could drill the hex pin hole to the correct size.
The RC8B3 universals are no where near the quality of the Tekno shafts. They wear out very quickly. In fact if they really are interchangeable I'll put the Tekno universals in my Associated.
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Old 01-10-2017, 02:49 PM   #2735
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Last edited by Pro2wd; 01-10-2017 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 01-10-2017, 02:53 PM   #2736
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
The RC8B3 universals are no where near the quality of the Tekno shafts. They wear out very quickly. In fact if they really are interchangeable I'll put the Tekno universals in my Associated.
I can't speak to the quality of the Tekno unis. But I'm sure they're as tough as the rest of the car. But I've been using the Associated unis in my EB48.3 for months with no signs of wear.
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Old 01-10-2017, 03:39 PM   #2737
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Originally Posted by Tampagoalie View Post
I can't speak to the quality of the Tekno unis. But I'm sure they're as tough as the rest of the car. But I've been using the Associated unis in my EB48.3 for months with no signs of wear.
My AEs had a ton of slop after a handful of races and the dog bone pins were completely done. Replaced them with Mugen pins which helped. The unis in my Tekno have more run time and still look / feel new.
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Old 01-13-2017, 06:05 AM   #2738
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does anyone know who posted the October setups for the EB48.3? It's indoor and outdoor.
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Old 01-13-2017, 11:01 AM   #2739
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Does anyone know if the diff seals(tkr5143) and orings(tkr5144) are the same the Losi 8ight uses(losa3505). I just picked up a used eb48.3 and have a bunch for my 8ight and was looking on amain and they look alot alike and would like to know if I need to order the tekno specific set.
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Old 01-13-2017, 01:49 PM   #2740
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Anyone use aluminum center diff split mount? It is an option for eb48.3 kits because only half of the mount comes aluminum in stock.

Is it worth it? Anyone broke that plastic center diff mount part before?
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Old 01-13-2017, 01:53 PM   #2741
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Originally Posted by kms7852 View Post
Anyone use aluminum center diff split mount? It is an option for eb48.3 kits because only half of the mount comes aluminum in stock.

Is it worth it? Anyone broke that plastic center diff mount part before?
I think it's worth it just for the better fitment. I had to be careful when I screwed in the plastic part or else it made the center diff bind up. With the aluminum bit you can really crank everything down without tweaking the diff mount.

But I highly doubt the plastic one is vulnerable to breakage. So probably not something to upgrade if durability is your only concern
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Old 01-13-2017, 02:02 PM   #2742
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
I think it's worth it just for the better fitment. I had to be careful when I screwed in the plastic part or else it made the center diff bind up. With the aluminum bit you can really crank everything down without tweaking the diff mount.

But I highly doubt the plastic one is vulnerable to breakage. So probably not something to upgrade if durability is your only concern
Thanks, I noticed that binding as well. It is easy to strip the plastic as well, I agree
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Old 01-13-2017, 05:50 PM   #2743
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I'm thinking of the eb48.3 as my 1st kit. I'm not a racer or anything just have a sc10 rtr that I play with. Just found out about a few tracks 1-2 hours away so I would like to build a kit for racing/bashing is this something that would still be a decent racer for awhile? The durability doesn't seem to be an issue from everything I have read. The price of this kit is very attractive right now
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Old 01-14-2017, 07:17 AM   #2744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlywithanI View Post
I'm thinking of the eb48.3 as my 1st kit. I'm not a racer or anything just have a sc10 rtr that I play with. Just found out about a few tracks 1-2 hours away so I would like to build a kit for racing/bashing is this something that would still be a decent racer for awhile? The durability doesn't seem to be an issue from everything I have read. The price of this kit is very attractive right now
From everything you said, sounds like you've made up your mind. You are correct, the tekno is strong and durable. Can't go wrong for the $.
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:51 AM   #2745
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on the EB48.3.... Anyone running the M2C 4mm tapered hinge pins with the delrin bushings? Or the hinge pins that protrude thru the stock bushings with a 4mm nut on the backside so you don't have to disassemble anything when changing the bushings or pins? Which is better? I was thinking the tapered pins looked nice cause they rotate inside the bushing. Seems like that would make the suspension nice and free.
Also wondering what pistons most people are running for outdoor tracks with low grip. The stock ones seem to work ok but hoping maybe another setup might improve on it even more. I see M2C has a piston that uses an O-ring to slow down rebound or compression. Might consider those or just regular pistons. Any suggestions? Maybe the 3X2.1 pistons?
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