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Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 12-14-2016, 09:24 AM
  #2671  
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I would have to suggest the JConcept Finnisher body.. But, that being said with no actual measurements....
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Old 12-14-2016, 09:45 AM
  #2672  
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Originally Posted by rpboggs1
Is this a recommended update for the truggies as well?
Yes, and you'll have to shorten your turnbuckles about 3mm as well. The MT uses new turnbuckles, TKR5424, but that spare part isn't yet in stock. We should have them in soon, sorry I can't give a better timeline .
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:02 AM
  #2673  
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Originally Posted by guren
this separation i´ve got en my eb48.3, i can´t upload photo
You don't have enough posts. Use something like photobucket to load your pictures into, then, post the image links here with the [ IMG ] [ /IMG ] tags (NO SPACE BETWEEN [])

Originally Posted by qstorm777
So is it worth doing all these changes or just waiting on the .4?

Lately, it's been tough trying to keep up with all the changes (hrc hubs, springs, etc.) And I'm running 4 teknos. I guess it's probably only been about $120 + shipping, lol, total, but it's still extra loot. If the .4 is going to be released soon, I'm wondering if it's worth it. I guess some of that too depends on how many more changes are coming. It would be nice to know so I could decide what to do. I might change one of the buggies and see if I like the feel.
I think a lot of it is going to come down to what value is added to the .4 vehicles versus refreshing your car. I would hope by now that the common things I hear are upgrades on these cars, I think the delrin guides are one, would come standard now on the .4 . Same with anything else that on the .3 was a performance upgrade, make it standard on the .4 .

I would also expect that the CNC hexes that are optional for the SCT410.3 will now make a debut as standard on the SCT410.4 if something like that is in the works as talking to guys who regularly run the teknos, the stock metal ones seem to still have breakage issues. Never heard of that with the CNC ones. I would also like to see these graphite towers make it to the kits as well. Seems these are quite durable and give it a better value than the stock towers.

All in all, that would be my expectations since other companies like Losi appear to be just chucking in common upgrades into the next iteration of the vehicle like the SCTE from what I am hearing.
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:07 AM
  #2674  
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Originally Posted by Cain

I would also expect that the CNC hexes that are optional for the SCT410.3 will now make a debut as standard on the SCT410.4 if something like that is in the works as talking to guys who regularly run the teknos, the stock metal ones seem to still have breakage issues. Never heard of that with the CNC ones. I would also like to see these graphite towers make it to the kits as well. Seems these are quite durable and give it a better value than the stock towers.
The problem with the stock hex's is people trying to torque them down. The set screw is just there to hold it in place, not to secure it still. I've never broken one, and still run them to this day. They're lighter, why would you want to add additional weight that doesn't need to be there?
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:35 AM
  #2675  
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Originally Posted by ezlight
The problem with the stock hex's is people trying to torque them down. The set screw is just there to hold it in place, not to secure it still. I've never broken one, and still run them to this day. They're lighter, why would you want to add additional weight that doesn't need to be there?
yeah I recall that from early on about being careful on how you tighten them. However, I have heard of issues with them not related to people overtightening them too. the CNC ones are so nice that I personally would like to see them become the standard, or a CNC version that is also light weight (I think I have a set of the stock hexes here, curious now on the weight diff).
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Old 12-16-2016, 10:51 AM
  #2676  
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What shock stand are you guys using ? Iv heard that the protek shock stand is to small? I looking to invest in one .

Last edited by Expose193; 12-17-2016 at 11:18 AM.
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Old 12-16-2016, 02:49 PM
  #2677  
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For you that are running the sl setups, what is the best setup? 2s/4000kv or 4s/1800kv? Mainly for indoor
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Old 12-17-2016, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin
For you that are running the sl setups, what is the best setup? 2s/4000kv or 4s/1800kv? Mainly for indoor
4s for sure. Either the T8i 1950kv or Pro4HD 1850kv & SMC 3600mAh or 4500mAh

I run the T8i and 4500mAh. I used to run the 3600 and it would make a 10 min main just fine.

Also if you go with one of those motors, get the LCG motor mount to lower the motor a few mm in the car.

http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5212-...htened-sct410/
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:05 PM
  #2679  
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42
4s for sure. Either the T8i 1950kv or Pro4HD 1850kv & SMC 3600mAh or 4500mAh

I run the T8i and 4500mAh. I used to run the 3600 and it would make a 10 min main just fine.

Also if you go with one of those motors, get the LCG motor mount to lower the motor a few mm in the car.

http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5212-...htened-sct410/
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Old 12-19-2016, 05:28 AM
  #2680  
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.4 is here!!

http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr8000-...ab-description
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Old 12-19-2016, 06:59 AM
  #2681  
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42
Awesome! Lots of upgrades too. New body..finally :]
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Old 12-19-2016, 08:55 AM
  #2682  
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darn purty

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Old 12-19-2016, 10:50 AM
  #2683  
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And I just finished rebuilding my .3 for next season ��
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:13 AM
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Will you be able to update the .3 to a .4 ?
Or would it be cheaper to just buy a .4
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Expose193
Will you be able to update the .3 to a .4 ?
Or would it be cheaper to just buy a .4
Good question. You'll just have to price out the components once they are available on the website. If your buggy is wore out then I'm sure it's better to replace the whole car.
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