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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-10-2016, 11:53 AM   #2536
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I'm a late turn in on brake driver. I too had issue getting the lutz/bornhorst setups to turn for a while. For me, these changes fixed that the most.

1) Top most link on front tower
2) shorter camber links all the way around
3) standing up the front shocks some on the tower

To explain why this works for me. #1 gives more instant traction in most set ups, even though it can brake loose easier as well into a push if prolonged or driven on the very edge. #2 goes along these same lines all the way around, so the rear is more likely to lock down on throttle and more likely to break loose on brake. #3 is about the moment of suspension, and with a more vertical shock, the initial turn in point is more supported.

The down side to those changes is that I loose a bunch of mid corner steering, so if there are sweepers, I usually end up having to go slower than others there, despite being able to hammer into the other corners deeper and come out with a lot more throttle. In essence, the changes I mentioned help make the car a little more "point and shoot" instead of "carve and carry speed".

As a result of my suspension choices and driving style, I also drive with stiffer springs and oil than most, and you can see if there is a similar reason for this in your driving or not by taking a video of your car on a corner. For me, without the extra stiffness, the front of the car collapses and is sliding the bumper on the ground, so most of the vehicle weight at the front is on the bumper instead of the tires, making it push like a dump truck. Making it stiffer, this doesn't happen and I stay on the wheels instead of the chassis with the weight and can turn in later and under anything.

If I didn't get on the brake so late or so hard, I wouldn't need all of that, but for ME, that's the best way I drive, even if it isn't the fastest way around each corner or every surface type.

Hopefully the insight helps. Try a few things bit by bit and see what works for you. Oh, and make sure you're not locking the wheels up. Locked up and sliding wheels won't turn you, no matter what the setup is.
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Old 11-10-2016, 06:18 PM   #2537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shannow View Post
Stubbs when entering corner are you still one the brakes, even a little ?
I think I advised a lower front ride height (24-25f 26 27 rear).
I'll look through you post to find more info on what hasn't been tried and see your setup.
In the sporadic instances where I start to turn in before letting off the brakes completely, I expect a push. What I'm talking about is after I've hit the brakes, released them, and am trying to roll through a tight corner. The buggy simply pushes instead of turning.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
Have you tried just staying on power? Not trying to be an ass, I'm serious. Just because you are on power doesn't mean you have to be hammer down. You just want to slow down / prevent all that weight transfer. If you can make your car rotate through the turn while on power, then that's clearly the best choice. (ie...the issue may be in the rear of the car. You may have locked it in too much and not let it slide through the turn)

The first thing I would try is going to the track on a practice day and just running pack after pack focusing on your throttle. Don't ever let completely off unless you have to brake. See if adapting your driving style some helps. If you get this down, your lap times and consistency will improve greatly.

Also see if one of the fast guys can drive your car. Don't ask them if there's anything wrong with it or mention the push. Just let them drive it and watch how the car looks / reacts while in their hands. That will help you determine if it's you or the car.

If you're absolutely certain it's an off power push that you have to remove then the first step is determine if the push is coming from a geometrical setting that is off (Roll Center, kick up, etc) or too much / little weight transfer. Attack the weight transfer first because it's easier to actually see.

For weight transfer I would start with ride height and droop adjustments. Maybe lower the front ride height a mm and give a little more droop in the rear for more transfer, or the opposite for less.
I know you weren't trying to be an ass.

Yes, I've tried getting on the power a bit.....applying throttle on the really tight turns, even just a bit, causes the buggy to drift wide, not rotate.

Of course, I could set it up to bring the tail end around easier, but I've never been a "swing the rear end around and gas it" kind of driver....I'm just not that consistent, and my 44 year old reflexes aren't as fast as they used to be. Whenever I've tried to adopt a style that is more like that, I end up looping the rear out when I apply the throttle coming out of the turns.

I like a bit more of a "touring car" type of driving style......brake coming into the turn, roll through the apex smoothly, then roll on the throttle exiting the turn. That approach is not likely to get me any track records for fastest lap, but I know that it will allow me to be more consistent.

I'll try your suggestions at a race coming up next weekend....there is also the Fall Brawl in Myrtle Beach a couple of weeks after that. I know there will be some Tekno team drivers there, so I'll likely have one of them take some laps with my car.....if it really is just "cockpit trouble", then it will be on me to correct it without changing the setup.
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Old 11-11-2016, 06:02 AM   #2538
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Hi Mike,
Ryan Lutz and I will be at Fall Brawl and we would be happy to take it for a spin. The practice line gets quite long, so recommend bring it by our pits first. in the mean time, feel free to post a current setup sheet so we can take a look. We've also posted some new recommended setups that use our latest ideas. Maybe try testing the outdoor, should be close to what you need.
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Old 11-11-2016, 08:25 AM   #2539
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so on the tekno site tkr6018 shock caps it shows the screws and orings in the pic for the emulsion build but in the foot note it has parts #s for the screws and orings and it say you will need them to build the shocks emulsion style. so my ? is do the screws and oring come with the caps or seperate?
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Old 11-11-2016, 10:10 AM   #2540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pballer2777 View Post
so on the tekno site tkr6018 shock caps it shows the screws and orings in the pic for the emulsion build but in the foot note it has parts #s for the screws and orings and it say you will need them to build the shocks emulsion style. so my ? is do the screws and oring come with the caps or seperate?
Just got a set of caps last night, they come with everything needed for emulsion build
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Old 11-11-2016, 10:57 AM   #2541
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Originally Posted by mxrcracer23 View Post
Just got a set of caps last night, they come with everything needed for emulsion build
thanks
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Old 11-11-2016, 07:02 PM   #2542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pballer2777 View Post
so on the tekno site tkr6018 shock caps it shows the screws and orings in the pic for the emulsion build but in the foot note it has parts #s for the screws and orings and it say you will need them to build the shocks emulsion style. so my ? is do the screws and oring come with the caps or seperate?
Thanks for catching that! As mxracer23 mentioned, the o-rings and screws are included with TKR6018. That has been removed from the product description.
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Old 11-14-2016, 06:06 AM   #2543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattDub View Post
Hi Mike,
Ryan Lutz and I will be at Fall Brawl and we would be happy to take it for a spin. The practice line gets quite long, so recommend bring it by our pits first. in the mean time, feel free to post a current setup sheet so we can take a look. We've also posted some new recommended setups that use our latest ideas. Maybe try testing the outdoor, should be close to what you need.
Thanks Matt....I was already planning on doing that.

I've known Ryan for quite a while, and you and I talked a bit at Wicked Weekend. I'm heading down this weekend for the Fall Brawl warm up race, so I can try a few different things in advance of the race. Some practice and stick time there should be very helpful.
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Old 11-15-2016, 06:40 AM   #2544
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Stubbs, Matt and the guys will help get you sorted! Please do share afterwards what you guys determined was the issue. I'm curious now
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Old 11-15-2016, 03:00 PM   #2545
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Can anyone confirm if this will contain the tekno shocks:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tamiya-...m54152/p208367

Also i have batteries ranging from 400 grams to 470 grams, but after seeing some setup sheets it seems as though something with more weight may be better balanced... any advice or a ballpark weight figure i should be aiming for?

equipment is as follows:
ESC (RX8g2) - 77g
Motor (T8g2) - 368g
Receiver (Rx471) - 7g
Transponder (rc4) - 5g
Servo (Savox 1271)- 63g
+- wiring & pinion - 40g

Total right side weight: 560 grams
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Old 11-15-2016, 03:43 PM   #2546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akshayp14 View Post
Can anyone confirm if this will contain the tekno shocks:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tamiya-...m54152/p208367

Also i have batteries ranging from 400 grams to 470 grams, but after seeing some setup sheets it seems as though something with more weight may be better balanced... any advice or a ballpark weight figure i should be aiming for?

equipment is as follows:
ESC (RX8g2) - 77g
Motor (T8g2) - 368g
Receiver (Rx471) - 7g
Transponder (rc4) - 5g
Servo (Savox 1271)- 63g
+- wiring & pinion - 40g

Total right side weight: 560 grams
Tge long pump will fit the tekno shocks
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Old 11-17-2016, 10:39 AM   #2547
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I just picked up a Tekno team members old chassis in a semi roller state.

The driveshaft has wear marks on it where it came into contact with something, I ordered the parts to replace, new cups, and shafts.

Question I have is the center drive shaft support needed? Or is it often removed for competition racing?

The center support was not included, maybe it was worn/broken and that is why the shaft is damaged, or deemed not needed in race application by someone of a pro skill level.

The drive shaft assembly has a lot of in and out play is this normal or due to worn parts? I have not installed new parts yet.

Can't wait to get it up and running and out on the track.
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Old 11-17-2016, 01:14 PM   #2548
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The front center driveshaft can often get scuff marks from rubbing the battery straps. If not too bad, I wouldn't be concerned. There will always be fore/aft play in the center driveshafts to allow the chassis to flex so that is normal too.
I think by drive shaft support you mean the center chassis brace? If so, it is often removed as a tuning aid. I have not run one since day one with my buggy so it is certainly not "needed". If you are bashing as well, it wouldn't be a bad idea to run it to prevent the chassis from getting too tweaked. Hope that helps.
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Old 11-17-2016, 05:57 PM   #2549
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That is what I needed to know.

The driveshaft has significant wear you can feel the groove in it.

Lutz put some miles on the chassis, but I'm more than happy with it!!
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Old 11-18-2016, 05:58 AM   #2550
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That is what I needed to know.

The driveshaft has significant wear you can feel the groove in it.

Lutz put some miles on the chassis, but I'm more than happy with it!!
OOhh, a lutz roller...Awesome...Don't change too much! haha

On teh SCT and EB, the middle and rear braces are optional. I still crash with the best of them, so I run all braces.
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