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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-06-2016, 01:46 AM   #2506
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Hi again all! Sorry for the absence from the forums for a while, as I've been a bit busy as of late.

I'll jump in at the servo question.

I've been running the ProTek 170s in my EB and ET for all of this season and some of last, and loved it. I had the ProTek 150T in my EB for 2 seasons prior, and it was also great. I would suggest higher torque over higher speed, as it lets you hold a corner better on traction, or have the servo survive bumps and side landings/impacts better.

I also ran the ProTek 130T and Savox 2274 for a while, but while I like both in my SC, I didn't think they felt like enough torque in the EB, especially when somebody decided to get into my wheels in "side by side" racing and my wheels wouldn't stay where I pointed them. I will note that, unlike most, I still run in the outside hole on the Tekno servo horn. I've also tried several cheap brand servos, and while several felt good for the first couple runs, none of them survived and stayed accurate and without centering slop like the ones I mentioned above did. In addition to that, ProTek and Savox both have decent customer support, while the others have almost none.

Highest is one of the OEMs for ProTek (as are others, depending on which servo you get), and is also a decent servo. As you pointed to their torque numbers, I will mention that not all servo brands measure torque in the same way for the stat you see. Most today use "stall torque" where it can hold something from moving, which is usually the largest number. Some torque measurements measure to what they can still move, which is typically a much lower number.

Some have had issues with the spline cracking on the ProTek and Highest servos, but with the steering linkage kept level, I haven't seen the problem.

MKS is definitely quality, and worth considering, but I don't have extended personal ownership of it to speak on.
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Old 11-06-2016, 01:54 AM   #2507
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I'll also touch on the driveshaft subject. I believe you're talking about the driveshafts at the corners, rather than those in the center of the car.

I haven't snapped any in a long time, and the time I did was from running a too worn outdrive that notched. As for bending them, this can happen on occasion, especially if you take a hit just right on that corner. If it isn't causing excessive vibration, it is still fine to run and won't cause an issue. I think of it this way, if I hit throttle on the bench and it LOOKS like the shaft is just a little thicker, I don't worry. If it starts to shake or look like a balloon shape, then I replace it. I think I've replaced 2 bent ones, one on the front, and one on the back, having run the EB series since it first came out. Both were a result of full speed crashes, the front being a head on where somebody was going the wrong way on the straight.

So, they are fairly durable, and generally don't need replacing either. If you question how much it wobbles for you, send a private video to Tekno support and they will be happy to let you know if it should cause a problem or not.
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Old 11-06-2016, 11:09 AM   #2508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
Hi again all! Sorry for the absence from the forums for a while, as I've been a bit busy as of late.

I'll jump in at the servo question.

I've been running the ProTek 170s in my EB and ET for all of this season and some of last, and loved it. I had the ProTek 150T in my EB for 2 seasons prior, and it was also great. I would suggest higher torque over higher speed, as it lets you hold a corner better on traction, or have the servo survive bumps and side landings/impacts better.

I also ran the ProTek 130T and Savox 2274 for a while, but while I like both in my SC, I didn't think they felt like enough torque in the EB, especially when somebody decided to get into my wheels in "side by side" racing and my wheels wouldn't stay where I pointed them. I will note that, unlike most, I still run in the outside hole on the Tekno servo horn. I've also tried several cheap brand servos, and while several felt good for the first couple runs, none of them survived and stayed accurate and without centering slop like the ones I mentioned above did. In addition to that, ProTek and Savox both have decent customer support, while the others have almost none.

Highest is one of the OEMs for ProTek (as are others, depending on which servo you get), and is also a decent servo. As you pointed to their torque numbers, I will mention that not all servo brands measure torque in the same way for the stat you see. Most today use "stall torque" where it can hold something from moving, which is usually the largest number. Some torque measurements measure to what they can still move, which is typically a much lower number.

Some have had issues with the spline cracking on the ProTek and Highest servos, but with the steering linkage kept level, I haven't seen the problem.

MKS is definitely quality, and worth considering, but I don't have extended personal ownership of it to speak on.
Thank you for giving input on all of them. The Savox 2274 I have heard good things about and is the cheapest, but if it's borderline strong enough, id rather spend a little more to get something that is, the Protek 170s and the MKS both look very nice and have great stats. I can't even find Highest in stock, so probably won't consider them... and Futaba is reliable too from what ive seen.

I haven't used a stronger servo than my Savox 1268 yet, so I don't know what the difference in feel would be, I don't have much to compare it with.
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Old 11-06-2016, 02:32 PM   #2509
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tried the new recommended outdoor setup and i must say i found the setup to be pretty unpredictable compared to the box stock setup. The rear end would lose traction and fishtail IMHO to easily. Just wondering if anyone else has had these issues and if so what is the best way to tune these problems out. Thanks Guys.

Also are the new HRC rear hubs good for any setup or just the most recent recommended ones.
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Old 11-06-2016, 03:36 PM   #2510
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i'm about to order some pt oils and was wondering what range shock oil I should get. where should I start and how high should I go?
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Old 11-06-2016, 06:23 PM   #2511
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Originally Posted by shadaloo View Post
so im torn between these servo's... the websites show varying stats, like for the highest fiercerc says .07/412oz but highest's website says .07/294oz?... huge difference..

Which is most recommended?
A) savox 2274 - .08 347oz
B) futaba s9372sv - .06 342oz
C) protek 150s - .06 346oz
D) protek 170s - .07 549oz
E) highest dt2100 - .07 412oz / .07 294oz?


the protek 150s seems like the best stat/price wise, but wasn't sure if they were accurate. also I hear a lot of good things about highest, but have never personally used them. I currently use savox 1267/1268 in my 2 cars but need to change soon due to wires being in rough condition.

sorry for beating a dead horse, i see a lot of posts when i search some of these servos in this thread, but nothing really about the highest/protek, mostly savox info.
I'm currently running the Savox 1268 but I'll be switching over to the ProTek 150T as I build my new cars.

The 150T is 345 oz and 0.10 at 6.0V and 426 oz and 0.08 at 7.4v. You can use them in every car from 2wd buggy to Truggy. Makes life easier not having to carry different servos.
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Old 11-06-2016, 06:27 PM   #2512
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i'm about to order some pt oils and was wondering what range shock oil I should get. where should I start and how high should I go?
If you're going to run the kit pistons non emulsion, 400-500. If you plan on running the 3 hole and / or emulsion, then I would go from 500-700. That window may narrow over the next few months as the rest of the team has more time with the 3 hole / emulsion stuff. Matt would probably be able to speak more on that as he would know what the guys out west were trying.

If it was me, I would just go from 400- 750 and be done with it just order a few here and there over the winter and you'll get em all soon enough
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Old 11-06-2016, 06:31 PM   #2513
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If you're going to run the kit pistons non emulsion, 400-500. If you plan on running the 3 hole and / or emulsion, then I would go from 500-700. That window may narrow over the next few months as the rest of the team has more time with the 3 hole / emulsion stuff. Matt would probably be able to speak more on that as he would know what the guys out west were trying.

If it was me, I would just go from 400- 750 and be done with it just order a few here and there over the winter and you'll get em all soon enough
yeah I was thinking from 400 to about 700. I have one more race this season on sunday but prob wont have the car by then. that makes motorama my first race with the car. what about diff oils?
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Old 11-06-2016, 06:33 PM   #2514
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yeah I was thinking from 400 to about 700. I have one more race this season on sunday but prob wont have the car by then. that makes motorama my first race with the car. what about diff oils?
I run 7-7-5 everywhere but would go from 4k to 10k to be safe. Really depends on the grip levels where you plan on running.

And just so you know, PT oils feel thinner than AE or TLR. So 7k PT is similar to 5k or 6k for the other brands.
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Old 11-06-2016, 11:52 PM   #2515
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I tried searching and didn't find the exact answer.

I'm struggling with off power steering (or just getting through a corner tight vs taking it wide)

I used the Joe Bornhorst setup but I have gotten so far away from that that I'm not sure what to call it.

I am using 7/7/5 in the diffs and I believe 425/ 475 in the shocks. The car just won't turn into the corner, I can't comment if its getting out of the corner well because I have to go so slow to setup for the exit.

Any help would be appreciated.

So, I have an update on this issue......I haven't messed with the buggy in a few weeks as I've been trying to get my new SCT dialed in. I'm heading to Thornhill this weekend so I wanted to change a few things. Upon inspection I found a bent screw that attached the camber link to the front tower, 2 bent CV shafts (I have universals waiting to be installed), additionally I also found 2 broken diff pins in the center diff. I feel that this is the biggest reason for my lack of steering.

I will get the parts tomorrow and put it all back together.
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:17 AM   #2516
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So, I have an update on this issue......I haven't messed with the buggy in a few weeks as I've been trying to get my new SCT dialed in. I'm heading to Thornhill this weekend so I wanted to change a few things. Upon inspection I found a bent screw that attached the camber link to the front tower, 2 bent CV shafts (I have universals waiting to be installed), additionally I also found 2 broken diff pins in the center diff. I feel that this is the biggest reason for my lack of steering.

I will get the parts tomorrow and put it all back together.
Sounds like you're on the right track. Locked center diff along with the other things would definitely cause it to underperform. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:29 AM   #2517
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Sounds like you're on the right track. Locked center diff along with the other things would definitely cause it to underperform. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
I forgot to mention that one hinge pin was severely bent and the corresponding a -arm's hing pin hole was also severely "wallowed" out.

Thanks for all your help
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:53 PM   #2518
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Originally Posted by Jzenka View Post
tried the new recommended outdoor setup and i must say i found the setup to be pretty unpredictable compared to the box stock setup. The rear end would lose traction and fishtail IMHO to easily. Just wondering if anyone else has had these issues and if so what is the best way to tune these problems out. Thanks Guys.

Also are the new HRC rear hubs good for any setup or just the most recent recommended ones.
Hello Jzenka, sounds like it could be a few things. As long as you are running the exact setup, first and foremost our setups depend on having the best tires for the particular track/condition. If tires are good then you can add rear stability easily by doing a couple things. Try moving the hubs forward 1mm at a time. A little goes a long way. Third is to try a little more rear toe or less bump out. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:53 PM   #2519
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I forgot to mention that one hinge pin was severely bent and the corresponding a -arm's hing pin hole was also severely "wallowed" out.

Thanks for all your help
You're welcome!
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:19 PM   #2520
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.......and a bent shock shaft......lol I just found that tonight.
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