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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 10-28-2016, 08:01 AM   #2446
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Would this be ok on 2S with a 23T pinion for bashing ? or is the .3 too heavy for it and will cause overheating? (motor has a fairly long can, 72mm)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFEYN&P=ML
Cheers.
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Old 10-28-2016, 08:17 AM   #2447
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I'd start that pinion lower, not sure what it equals in kv, but on 4000 in a sl, I'm runnin 16,17,18. Per track size. For long pulls of full. I'd try 16. Assuming it's more like 46k
I would think a regular .3 would be okay but it's a pretty inefficient setup.
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Old 10-28-2016, 08:25 AM   #2448
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Originally Posted by eXXon View Post
Would this be ok on 2S with a 23T pinion for bashing ? or is the .3 too heavy for it and will cause overheating? (motor has a fairly long can, 72mm)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFEYN&P=ML
Cheers.
NO! A 23t pinion on that with 2s will lead to very hot / melted components almost instantly. Maybe a 12-13 tooth pinion would work but, I wouldn't even attempt to run that in an EB48.
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Old 10-28-2016, 08:34 AM   #2449
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Originally Posted by rregl0612 View Post
I'd start that pinion lower, not sure what it equals in kv, but on 4000 in a sl, I'm runnin 16,17,18. Per track size. For long pulls of full. I'd try 16. Assuming it's more like 46k
I would think a regular .3 would be okay but it's a pretty inefficient setup.
Interesting. It is 5000KV and I assumed 8V x 5000 = 40K RPM, which is not a lot, that's why I thought 23T would be needed for top-end.

But if 16T is enough for long straights on big tracks to keep up with the 4S crowd (bashing fun, not official racing), then I will go with 16-18T tops.

Thanks mate.
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Old 10-28-2016, 08:35 AM   #2450
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
NO! A 23t pinion on that with 2s will lead to very hot / melted components almost instantly. Maybe a 12-13 tooth pinion would work but, I wouldn't even attempt to run that in an EB48.
Why, because of the weight ?
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Old 10-28-2016, 08:38 AM   #2451
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Originally Posted by eXXon View Post
Why, because of the weight ?
Yes. That and most bashers tend to run their cars much harder than the racers which leads to more heat issues, and is harder on batteries.
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Old 10-28-2016, 09:00 AM   #2452
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
Yes. That and most bashers tend to run their cars much harder than the racers which leads to more heat issues, and is harder on batteries.
Forgive my ignorance, but how much heavier is the 0.3 than the SL or SCT ? and these lighter kits usually run 36x65mm cans without issues, while this one is 36x72mm. And ammm, I bought the combo 2 days ago (should've asked 1st, but I'm very smart).

I have 4 2S packs and running on 2S power would literally double up my running time at the far-away desert track, it would be highly appreciated if you could recommend a more suitable 2S system, or should I just get a new kit ?(my wallet really hurts)

Cheers again.
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Old 10-28-2016, 09:31 AM   #2453
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Originally Posted by eXXon View Post
Forgive my ignorance, but how much heavier is the 0.3 than the SL or SCT ? and these lighter kits usually run 36x65mm cans without issues, while this one is 36x72mm. And ammm, I bought the combo 2 days ago (should've asked 1st, but I'm very smart).

I have 4 2S packs and running on 2S power would literally double up my running time at the far-away desert track, it would be highly appreciated if you could recommend a more suitable 2S system, or should I just get a new kit ?(my wallet really hurts)

Cheers again.
I wouldn't be worried about running the .3 on 2s. I do for indoors, and my buddy does for outdoors, Both of us ran the hobbywing 4700kv motor with a 16t pinion without issue. With that 4.5 being in the 5000kv range, I would have to guess 15t, maybe 14t...I don't believe you can physically fit smaller than a 14t in the motor mount and get the mesh correct.

Also, Vent that body well for airflow. I used a body punch to put holes all through the windshield, along with teh normal venting.
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Old 10-29-2016, 12:31 AM   #2454
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
I wouldn't be worried about running the .3 on 2s. I do for indoors, and my buddy does for outdoors, Both of us ran the hobbywing 4700kv motor with a 16t pinion without issue. With that 4.5 being in the 5000kv range, I would have to guess 15t, maybe 14t...I don't believe you can physically fit smaller than a 14t in the motor mount and get the mesh correct.

Also, Vent that body well for airflow. I used a body punch to put holes all through the windshield, along with teh normal venting.
Will try 15T first, measure the temps and go from there. Cheers mate.
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Old 10-29-2016, 03:54 PM   #2455
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Has anyone tried the new recommended indoor setup from Tekno's website?
http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...d%20Indoor.pdf
I am having troubles getting the front camber to -2deg with how short the camber links are, the turnbuckle feels like its bottoming out and binding up the pivot balls.
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Old 10-29-2016, 04:41 PM   #2456
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
Has anyone tried the new recommended indoor setup from Tekno's website?
http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...d%20Indoor.pdf
I am having troubles getting the front camber to -2deg with how short the camber links are, the turnbuckle feels like its bottoming out and binding up the pivot balls.
Make sure they are threaded in equal side to side one might be bottoming out before the other
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Old 10-29-2016, 06:23 PM   #2457
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Originally Posted by anr211 View Post
More bump out gives more mid corner steering.


Hey Matt, who else is stocking your low frequency springs right now? I'm looking for the black fronts and orange rears and teknorc.com and http://www.fiercercsolutions.com/ are both out of stock.
They are going to be a little difficult to find. Very popular. Recommend A Main, Tower Hobbies or Absolute Hobbyz
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Old 10-29-2016, 06:25 PM   #2458
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
MattDub, I don't know if you ever ran Joe's AMS or Southern Nat setup, but, if so, can you compare the recommended outdoor setup to Joe's setup?
Our recommended setups should be overall easier to drive. Joe's setup was quite good but we've done quite a bit of shock and spring testing since then.
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Old 10-29-2016, 06:27 PM   #2459
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Any plans to release softer rear LF springs as yellow is the softest of the current offering. I would like to try a set of pink or green rears on my EB48SL
The new LF springs are a little longer and designed for the EB and NB, might be something in the works
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Old 10-29-2016, 06:37 PM   #2460
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Originally Posted by Jpm1 View Post
Matt, how are you drilling the 1.8 out to 1.9, what brand of drill are you using, i cant find that size anywhere?

Justin
Recommend this or this. For larger than 2.0 use this.
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