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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 10-24-2016, 09:37 AM   #2401
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
Matt, the biggest thing that I have found is guys are using other brand oils in their shocks and diffs and they don't feel the same. I was one of them. I switched to PT since the rest of the team used it and voila! My car does everything right all of a sudden.

If you don't want to switch fluids, I suggest going thinner than whatever is on the setup. If it says 7-7-5, try 5-5-3. In general PT seems to have a feel of being 2k thinner on diff fluid and 1/2 wt (50 or so cst) on oil.
Good to know Bob, thanks!
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:41 AM   #2402
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"What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:
TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs
or TKR6035 - Pink Front Springs
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs
or TKR6034 - Red Rear Springs
TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set
TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)"


Would you recommend the new LF springs for all conditions? Or just on high/med grip and smooth?
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:55 AM   #2403
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
Yeah I can't get it to attach. Keeps saying file size is too big. Anyone know how to reduce the file size of a .pdf?

EDIT: Maybe this will work...
MX304, Looking at your setup there are a couple of things I would recommend that would drastically improve on power steering. Not sure if you want more, but on power steering is how you get fast!

Try taking out the anti-squat. Go to double dot down on the C or single dot down. With this much anti-squat the rear of the car will want to rise off power and become unpredictable. It also creates a weird oscillation when transitioning from on to off and back again.

Also, try moving your hubs back. You have them all the way forward, and we don't typically recommend this. We are now running them all the way back or 1 mm from all the way. With the hubs all the way forward, extra weight is placed over the rear wheels, and it won't rotate properly on power. Also with the increased dog bone angle the car will be very rigid on power and want to squat when throttle is applied. Moving the hubs forward will give the rear more on power, forward drive and severely decrease on power steering.

Both of these changes will help immensely on rough tracks and just make the car easier to drive overall.
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:57 AM   #2404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deceit View Post
"What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:
TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs
or TKR6035 - Pink Front Springs
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs
or TKR6034 - Red Rear Springs
TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set
TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)"


Would you recommend the new LF springs for all conditions? Or just on high/med grip and smooth?
Hi Deceit, We recommend the LF springs for all conditions. They help improve consistency on bumps and also have less of a chance to bounce when landing large jumps.
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:58 AM   #2405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattDub View Post
MX304, Looking at your setup there are a couple of things I would recommend that would drastically improve on power steering. Not sure if you want more, but on power steering is how you get fast!

Try taking out the anti-squat. Go to double dot down on the C or single dot down. With this much anti-squat the rear of the car will want to rise off power and become unpredictable. It also creates a weird oscillation when transitioning from on to off and back again.

Also, try moving your hubs back. You have them all the way forward, and we don't typically recommend this. We are now running them all the way back or 1 mm from all the way. With the hubs all the way forward, extra weight is placed over the rear wheels, and it won't rotate properly on power. Also with the increased dog bone angle the car will be very rigid on power and want to squat when throttle is applied. Moving the hubs forward will give the rear more on power, forward drive and severely decrease on power steering.

Both of these changes will help immensely on rough tracks and just make the car easier to drive overall.
Thanks Matt, on power steering is what I am looking for. Right now if I get on the power with the wheels still turned out of a tight hairpin, the car just slides the front straight ahead. I forgot to edit the sheet to show I had already moved the hubs back. It was a big improvement! I'll drop the anti squat down next as see how it is.
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Old 10-24-2016, 10:02 AM   #2406
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Originally Posted by MattDub View Post
Hi Deceit, We recommend the LF springs for all conditions. They help improve consistency on bumps and also have less of a chance to bounce when landing large jumps.
thank you, are there springs for the sct as well? I know the other day someone said they were intended for the eb
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Old 10-24-2016, 10:13 AM   #2407
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Originally Posted by MattDub View Post
Hi Deceit, We recommend the LF springs for all conditions. They help improve consistency on bumps and also have less of a chance to bounce when landing large jumps.
Hey Matt (or Tekno),

What is the frequency (in Hz) of the "LF" springs, and what is the frequency of standard Tekno springs?

It is a very common practice to mix frequencies front/back along with spring rates when suspension tuning.

It would be very beneficial to know actual frequency instead of just saying "We recommend the LF springs for all conditions".

Thanks!
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Old 10-24-2016, 11:09 AM   #2408
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Originally Posted by Precision1 View Post
Hey Matt (or Tekno),

What is the frequency (in Hz) of the "LF" springs, and what is the frequency of standard Tekno springs?

It is a very common practice to mix frequencies front/back along with spring rates when suspension tuning.

It would be very beneficial to know actual frequency instead of just saying "We recommend the LF springs for all conditions".

Thanks!
Sorry, I don't have this info.
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Old 10-24-2016, 12:38 PM   #2409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattDub View Post
MX304, Looking at your setup there are a couple of things I would recommend that would drastically improve on power steering. Not sure if you want more, but on power steering is how you get fast!

Try taking out the anti-squat. Go to double dot down on the C or single dot down. With this much anti-squat the rear of the car will want to rise off power and become unpredictable. It also creates a weird oscillation when transitioning from on to off and back again.

Also, try moving your hubs back. You have them all the way forward, and we don't typically recommend this. We are now running them all the way back or 1 mm from all the way. With the hubs all the way forward, extra weight is placed over the rear wheels, and it won't rotate properly on power. Also with the increased dog bone angle the car will be very rigid on power and want to squat when throttle is applied. Moving the hubs forward will give the rear more on power, forward drive and severely decrease on power steering.

Both of these changes will help immensely on rough tracks and just make the car easier to drive overall.
Thanks Matt, You just gave me something to try next time out. I definitely have a push on power.
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Old 10-24-2016, 07:17 PM   #2410
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Default emulsion build

MATTDUB,
I noticed the UK tekno guys are running sct emulsion caps on there shocks. Is emulsion build the new hot setup??
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Old 10-24-2016, 08:50 PM   #2411
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
Thanks Matt, on power steering is what I am looking for. Right now if I get on the power with the wheels still turned out of a tight hairpin, the car just slides the front straight ahead. I forgot to edit the sheet to show I had already moved the hubs back. It was a big improvement! I'll drop the anti squat down next as see how it is.
You're welcome! Hope this helps.
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Old 10-24-2016, 08:57 PM   #2412
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Originally Posted by lala4fire View Post
MATTDUB,
I noticed the UK tekno guys are running sct emulsion caps on there shocks. Is emulsion build the new hot setup??
Most definitely, we have been using TKR6018 emulsion caps on the EB, NB, SCT and EB48SL with great success! No need to change oils or pistons. Please follow the build instructions below to make sure they are consistent.

Build Directions:
Drill a small hole in the bleeder hole of the cap. Do not drill the vent hole on the side of the cap. I used a 2.0mm drill and be sure to remove all flashing.
Put the o-ring on the shock body.

Fill the shock to the top so the fluid is level or even slightly higher than the body.

No need to use a bladder.

By hand, carefully screw the cap on as it’s somewhat easy to cross thread the cap. I like to turn the cap counter clockwise until you feel the threads meet with the body, then turn the cap clockwise to seat.

Pull the shock boot over the shock end and completely push the shaft in. A little oil should come out. If none does, remove the cap and fill the body higher.
With the black o-ring on the flat head screw, screw in the screw and pump the shock about 30 times and leave the shaft fully extended.

Remove the bleeder screw and push the shaft all the way in, then quickly put the screw back in. More oil should come out. It’s important to make sure the shocks don’t hydro-lock when the shaft is fully inserted.

Using this method the shocks should be very close to dead when fully compressed and slightly retract when fully extended. Once you pump the shock a dozen times, it should be very close to dead on full compression and extension.

Last thing is to tighten the cap with tools, it needs to be snug but don't over tighten. Usually only needs 1/16th of a turn. The caps need to be a little tighter than you can do by hand but be careful when tightening the caps with tools. The caps can be very tight but not as tight as the aluminum caps.

It's actually really easy to build them emulsion style but they do need a little more maintenance as they need to be rebled when traveling or if there is a large temperature differential and before each event.

Most important thing is to make sure they don't hydrolock. Meaning the shaft should be able to be fully compressed. If there is too much oil in the shock, the shaft will be very difficult to fully press in.

Give it a try and let us know what you think!
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:13 PM   #2413
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You what would be really cool matt is emulsion shocks on a Tekno wheeler
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:30 PM   #2414
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Originally Posted by Mark K View Post
One of the easiest things you can try is removing the steering stop washers. A lot of setups call for 3-4 washers but for my particular driving style I just can't use them. I run the screw only. This buggy has a ton of steering built into it so a lack of steering on a tight track should not be an issue. Keep us posted on what you try and we'll try to get you sorted.
I'll try that. It's a good idea
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:31 PM   #2415
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
Matt, the biggest thing that I have found is guys are using other brand oils in their shocks and diffs and they don't feel the same. I was one of them. I switched to PT since the rest of the team used it and voila! My car does everything right all of a sudden.

If you don't want to switch fluids, I suggest going thinner than whatever is on the setup. If it says 7-7-5, try 5-5-3. In general PT seems to have a feel of being 2k thinner on diff fluid and 1/2 wt (50 or so cst) on oil.
I use PT in all of my cars though.
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