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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 09-25-2016, 12:06 AM   #2281
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Hey guys, first time building a kit and I'm stuck with the shocks.

After installing the piston on one of the shafts and trying to move it up/down in the shock body, it stops dead cold in the middle and I have to sort of force it to move past that point (just a few millimeters in the middle and the rest has smooth motion)

I thought it was the piston, but same thing happens with the other piston.

Then I assumed it was the shock body, but with a different shaft, it goes up and down smoothly.

Then I tested the shaft in a different shock body, and it did the same thing, around the middle of the shock, the shaft will freeze in place and needs to be forced up (or down) for a few mm and then it moves the rest of the path easily.

Apologies for the long post, but what could the problem be with the shaft (if it is the culprit)?

Thank you.
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Old 09-25-2016, 08:09 AM   #2282
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Originally Posted by eXXon View Post
Hey guys, first time building a kit and I'm stuck with the shocks.

After installing the piston on one of the shafts and trying to move it up/down in the shock body, it stops dead cold in the middle and I have to sort of force it to move past that point (just a few millimeters in the middle and the rest has smooth motion)

I thought it was the piston, but same thing happens with the other piston.

Then I assumed it was the shock body, but with a different shaft, it goes up and down smoothly.

Then I tested the shaft in a different shock body, and it did the same thing, around the middle of the shock, the shaft will freeze in place and needs to be forced up (or down) for a few mm and then it moves the rest of the path easily.

Apologies for the long post, but what could the problem be with the shaft (if it is the culprit)?

Thank you.
Hit up support. http://www.blog.teknorc.com/contact-us/
Sounds like you diagnosed it well and somehow there is an issue with the shock shaft. Support will take care of you.
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Old 09-25-2016, 05:07 PM   #2283
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Originally Posted by RokleM View Post
Hit up support. http://www.blog.teknorc.com/contact-us/
Sounds like you diagnosed it well and somehow there is an issue with the shock shaft. Support will take care of you.
Cheers. Turns out the shaft gets caught on the plastic hat type thingy on the bottom of the shock because I used pliers to hold the shaft earlier and it made sharp lines/dents in the shaft.
I just sanded it down a bit and it works great now

Tekno RC already showed me their great support by sending me new steering links for the Truggy because one of them that came with the kit didn't have any threads on one end.
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Old 09-25-2016, 09:29 PM   #2284
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Cheers. Turns out the shaft gets caught on the plastic hat type thingy on the bottom of the shock because I used pliers to hold the shaft earlier and it made sharp lines/dents in the shaft.
I just sanded it down a bit and it works great now

Tekno RC already showed me their great support by sending me new steering links for the Truggy because one of them that came with the kit didn't have any threads on one end.
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr1115-pivot-ball-and-shock-multi-tool-aluminum/

https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-trutorque-shock-shaft-pliers-ptk-8267/p248643
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Old 09-26-2016, 05:45 AM   #2285
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Originally Posted by eXXon View Post
Cheers. Turns out the shaft gets caught on the plastic hat type thingy on the bottom of the shock because I used pliers to hold the shaft earlier and it made sharp lines/dents in the shaft.
I just sanded it down a bit and it works great now

Tekno RC already showed me their great support by sending me new steering links for the Truggy because one of them that came with the kit didn't have any threads on one end.
Yes, that will do it. Never use pliers directly on a shock shaft. If you HAVE to do that, at least wrap it in a cloth. The shock tool is worth the investment.

Since it's been sanded, keep an eye out for any leaks.
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Old 09-26-2016, 06:46 AM   #2286
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I think I am going to look around for the parts and buy them as well. I want to do some indoor 1/8 racing and this is the only build they allow. Thanks for the directions..
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Old 09-26-2016, 07:20 AM   #2287
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I think I am going to look around for the parts and buy them as well. I want to do some indoor 1/8 racing and this is the only build they allow. Thanks for the directions..
FYI, The eb48.3 with 2s electronics & battery meets weight requirements for the prolite class. No need to get the SL, or convert the sct. and it has the same footprint as the SL.
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Old 09-26-2016, 04:42 PM   #2288
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Default Bent hinge pins

I just pulled the front end apart and both hinge pins were bent. I have herd that this is an issue. Anybody have any ideas to solve this problem? looking for different hinge pins. 4mm x63 mm long
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:48 AM   #2289
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I just pulled the front end apart and both hinge pins were bent. I have herd that this is an issue. Anybody have any ideas to solve this problem? looking for different hinge pins. 4mm x63 mm long
There was a running change to them. Same part number. The way you can tell is the ends of them are darker / black on the revised parts.

If you cut the arms like most of us do, you can get away with hinge pins with slight bends in them. When I'm saying slight, I do mean slight. Don't keep running something that looks like a compound bow
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:50 AM   #2290
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FYI, The eb48.3 with 2s electronics & battery meets weight requirements for the prolite class. No need to get the SL, or convert the sct. and it has the same footprint as the SL.
Ok great! Thanks for the heads up. I didn't want to buy another kit ( i have plenty as is) so this works out for me. What do you suggest for a system? So many choices for 2s. The Hobbywing combo's look decent.
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:27 AM   #2291
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Thanks Bob. Mine were bent bad. replaced them but don't know if they were the new ones or not.
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:55 AM   #2292
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Ok great! Thanks for the heads up. I didn't want to buy another kit ( i have plenty as is) so this works out for me. What do you suggest for a system? So many choices for 2s. The Hobbywing combo's look decent.

I run Gen 2 RX8's in everything, but all 3 of my electrics are SMC motors. (1900kv in truggy, 2100kv in buggy, and 4500kv in SCT)

I'm thinking, due to size, a 4000kv may be better for more torque....But then again, I actually ran the HW 4700kv in mine when it was a prolite.
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Old 09-28-2016, 08:36 AM   #2293
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I run Gen 2 RX8's in everything, but all 3 of my electrics are SMC motors. (1900kv in truggy, 2100kv in buggy, and 4500kv in SCT)

I'm thinking, due to size, a 4000kv may be better for more torque....But then again, I actually ran the HW 4700kv in mine when it was a prolite.
Ok, I was thinking Tekin Pro4 HD 4300kv. I already have the RX8 Gen2. I checked some of the Superlight Class rules on some sites and found that 4700/4800kv is the norm.

Tekin Pro4 has a 4600kv motor or i could go with Hobbywing. Thanks for the info.
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:49 AM   #2294
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The Pro4HD 4300 is a bigger motor than the Pro4 4600, so it will have more torque. I would recommend that one, I used it in my MIP Pro8 Before I switched over to 4S. One guy at our track (suzukipro) runs the Pro4HD 1850 on 4S in a Lightweight EB48 and runs in the normal ebuggy class, and does very well with it.
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Old 09-28-2016, 01:08 PM   #2295
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Thanks Bob. Mine were bent bad. replaced them but don't know if they were the new ones or not.
I bent one really bad the first weekend of the spring and in a panic move bought 4 pair

Since then I have bent 4 more but when I bent, I mean they are BARELY bent. If you rolled them across glass you would not notice it. Keep in mind this is across 2 cars (NB and EB). Also important thing to note, I never changed any of those 4 until this past month when I started rebuilding my cars to put on the shelf for the winter. I actually took them and threw them in my box to keep in case of emergency.
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