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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-16-2015, 06:47 PM   #211
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Any idea when the eb48.3s are due back instock at amain or tower?
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:04 PM   #212
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Originally Posted by BLbound View Post
I ran my new eb48.3 tonight for its maiden voyage at SDRC. The car ran great! It still had great steering and with more traction. I felt that the stock black front springs were too soft for the clay surface so I ended up with kyosho orange springs all around. I also I'm not happy with the bit of slop that the car has when built...but it's easy enough to shim it away. After the spring change the car felt better & I ended finishing 3rd. Thank you tekno for the new ride, love everything about the new buggy aside from the slop.
Funny that you say slop, because coming from my rc8.2e factory team, I feel like this buggy has no slop at all. I couldn't be happier with it.
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Old 08-17-2015, 08:42 AM   #213
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Originally Posted by rwhitaker04 View Post
Any idea when the eb48.3s are due back instock at amain or tower?
Tower says Mid August.
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Old 08-17-2015, 09:02 AM   #214
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Anyone try the Fioroni pistons with the longer .3 shocks? I'm about to convert my .2 to a .3 and wasn't sure if I should keep the Fioroni 6 hole pistons in it or go with the new Tekno .3 pistons...
Your gonna want the 4x1.8s.... I tried my existing 6 hole ones from my .2 on my .3 upgrade parts and didn't like the feel, gave it a totally different feeling and handling. I put the 4x1.8s in last night and just form doing the bench drop for ride height felt way better
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Old 08-17-2015, 12:52 PM   #215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTDpower View Post
Funny that you say slop, because coming from my rc8.2e factory team, I feel like this buggy has no slop at all. I couldn't be happier with it.
I think Tekno spoiled us with the eb48.2...mine is still slop free! Welcome to Tekno!
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Old 08-17-2015, 01:22 PM   #216
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The only slop I have in my EB48.3 is in the A-arms because I got a little too aggressive reaming them out... So, totally my fault, I guess there might be a smidge of slop in the front wheels from something, but it's a small amount in my opinion and like the other poster said, could be eliminated if you worked at it.

That being said... I wish Tekno would properly prepare the A-Arms before they send them out we don't have to risk damaging them ourselves. My SCT410.3 and EB48.3 needed quite a bit removed from the inside of the A-arm hole to move freely.
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Old 08-17-2015, 01:55 PM   #217
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http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-32-Inch.../dp/B000IC26XE

Use these by hand or in a drill. The hole will come out straight and the perfect diameter. You can get them at most hardware stores.
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Old 08-17-2015, 05:53 PM   #218
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Some nice FPV footage from the Wicked Weekend in GA.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdhtxuQcD08

Congrats Joe on the awesome finishes this weekend. First in ebuggy and nitro truggy second in nitro buggy (with a flame out)
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Old 08-17-2015, 07:14 PM   #219
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Originally Posted by CTDpower View Post
Funny that you say slop, because coming from my rc8.2e factory team, I feel like this buggy has no slop at all. I couldn't be happier with it.
Forward to back movement of rear arms and hubs are a bit sloppy.

No big deal, but it is there and requires shims. Arms are also tight and I got 2 bent drive shafts. Car is nice but not perfect.

BTW the new AE car is pretty nice, super smooth drivetrain and looks to be way better built than the old car.
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Old 08-18-2015, 07:54 AM   #220
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Originally Posted by jnslprd View Post
Forward to back movement of rear arms and hubs are a bit sloppy.

No big deal, but it is there and requires shims. Arms are also tight and I got 2 bent drive shafts. Car is nice but not perfect.

BTW the new AE car is pretty nice, super smooth drivetrain and looks to be way better built than the old car.
That is the only slop I noticed...the slop with front to back move of arms on the inner pins. I have maybe 1mm movement rear and 1-1.5mm movement in the front. I like to just through a small rubber o-ring in there to eliminate the play. The old rc8.2e had way more movement in the exact same place.

I like that they send the arms small and let you ream them perfect. No slop on the pins then. The ae car had all kinds of slop there as well.

Between the two above, combined with, combined few a few other areas the front tires on the old rc8.2e had about 1/2" of slop in every direction lol.
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:54 PM   #221
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Quote:

Use these by hand or in a drill. The hole will come out straight and the perfect diameter. You can get them at most hardware stores.
I hadn't drilled mine out yet cause I was still waiting to find a 4mm bit. Well, I went to mrdochs, found a 3 pack of these 12" long files like you linked too for $5 and they worked absolutely perfect. They measure roughly 4.05mm diameter and the hinge pins measure roughly 3.95mm diameter. Thought it would be a little loose, But it seemed you can run the file in with a drill and the longer you leave it in there the more material is removed... so just run it in and back it out and test, too tight run it in again, and so on until it is perfect. Took me like 10mins to disassemble and do all four arms. They have zero play and have zero binding. Thanks for the tip dude!
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Old 08-18-2015, 11:21 PM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTDpower View Post
I hadn't drilled mine out yet cause I was still waiting to find a 4mm bit. Well, I went to mrdochs, found a 3 pack of these 12" long files like you linked too for $5 and they worked absolutely perfect. They measure roughly 4.05mm diameter and the hinge pins measure roughly 3.95mm diameter. Thought it would be a little loose, But it seemed you can run the file in with a drill and the longer you leave it in there the more material is removed... so just run it in and back it out and test, too tight run it in again, and so on until it is perfect. Took me like 10mins to disassemble and do all four arms. They have zero play and have zero binding. Thanks for the tip dude!
No problem. Someone else posted that here recently and I had to try it. I got 2 bits for $5. I've tried drill bits and reamers and these did the job better and a lot faster. I also found if you get dirt buildup in the arms you can run it in and out a couple times by hand and it cleans them right up.
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Old 08-20-2015, 06:01 AM   #223
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I have been noticing my front end seems to bounce up after a jump while my rear end seems to stay planted. I'm also not loving the way the front end feels when I compress the suspension with the factory set up. It just feels stiff and mechanical like I'm compressing a sway bar, not a shock.

Anyone have any issues or have a nice feeling front end while pressing the front shock towers down? Mind just feels different than the other Losi ebuggies at the track and from my ET48 and SCT410.3.
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Old 08-20-2015, 10:31 AM   #224
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I have been noticing my front end seems to bounce up after a jump while my rear end seems to stay planted. I'm also not loving the way the front end feels when I compress the suspension with the factory set up. It just feels stiff and mechanical like I'm compressing a sway bar, not a shock.

Anyone have any issues or have a nice feeling front end while pressing the front shock towers down? Mind just feels different than the other Losi ebuggies at the track and from my ET48 and SCT410.3.
Try without the shock boots and see if the suspension it is still doing this.

I know what you are referring to as far as the front end slapping if not landing 100%. Try going up in front oil.
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Old 08-20-2015, 01:39 PM   #225
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Any idea when the eb48.3s are due back instock at amain or tower?
Fierce will have them tomorrow, 3 left unspoken for the last time I looked.
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