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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 09-05-2016, 04:32 AM   #2176
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Old 09-05-2016, 04:36 AM   #2177
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A few things helped me gain steering. Try the least amount of rear toe you can. And the biggest difference is remove the front sway bar. Also try running the front camber at 1 or 0.
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Old 09-05-2016, 07:38 AM   #2178
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Quote:
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A few things helped me gain steering. Try the least amount of rear toe you can. And the biggest difference is remove the front sway bar. Also try running the front camber at 1 or 0.
thanks guys. qstorm I find that to be true also. If I try to go slow I turn extremely wide, but if i go in fast enough to whip the rear end around I can make the turn quickly. but sometimes the rear end wont come loose and ill end up even worse than going slow. I'll try messaging him on facebook, maybe he has some tips.

Dragon, right now with Joe's setup i believe it has a ton of rear toe, also ive never ran without a front sway bar. So ill definitely try without it, i remember people recommending that for the sct. I currently have -2 camber all around, so I can try that as well.

I really appreciate your guys help. I'm still trying to get used to the tekno, and get back into racing, and everyone's help speeds up the process!

I realize that everything varies track to track, track conditions, etc.. the track yesterday was very sticky, until it dried a bit, but once wet again it was like glue. Since the track got redone that day (ran on it as they finished packing) it was really inconsistent. But with as grippy as it was when wet, I figured i would traction roll, but instead i just took turns wide as hell.
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Old 09-05-2016, 07:41 AM   #2179
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I'm running Joe's setup and I feel like it turns best with speed. I initiate the turn off power and about 1/2 (apex), maybe a little before, of the turn, I start to get back on it. I initially thought the car didn't turn well, but that strategy has worked for me. I believe his setup (and the stock setup) loosens up the rear to make the car turn.
Southern nats, if you look at the settings and think about what they are doing your basically 2 steps from max traction in the rear. One slot of rise on roll, in the tower, and one hole longer in the link.
Shortening that link will speed transfer and might help free your car mid corner, it also will come back in (square up) at the cost of corner speed, but if your not turning. That's not a problem
A longer front link will also retard initial steering response for more overall (mid corner) steering.
General. The longer the link the slower the transfer. The more weight is transfered at peak force

Last edited by rregl0612; 09-05-2016 at 11:43 PM.
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:14 AM   #2180
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When I tried allot of rear toe the rear was like glued to the track. I removed allot of it and all the sudden the rear would rotate nicely. If you can't get enough traction in the front the rear will hold the car straight.
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:47 PM   #2181
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very very disappointed to say the least. I have about 8-10 packs on my new eb48.3 and after hitting the track on sunday, it was extremely dirty. So I decided to redo the diff oils, shock oils, etc after getting it broken in. I took the car apart and cleaned it completely. I noticed that the front right dogbone is bent (cant tell in the pic, but its noticeable when it turns). The left rear axle is bent very badly (inside the carrier), I couldn't even get the bearing off it... Also 70% of the bearings felt like complete trash.. they were gritty and grinding. I cleaned everything very well too..

both rear hinge pins were also locked up, i did more reaming after getting them out... i am going to do the mod to the arms later this week.

I had a few bad tumbles last week, but I didn't expect the bearings to go bad this fast, I talked to a friend and he said he has to replace his every few races.

Are the dogbones/axles prone to bending that easy? I thought Tekno had amazing wear characteristics, so I wasn't expecting the bearings to go bad this quick.

shock boots tore too, but thats not a big deal. I got the Q350 balloons to fix that problem.

Yes I used grease in the joints, just not for the pic because this was during cleaning.
Attached Thumbnails
Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread-dirtbag.jpg   Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread-clean.jpg   Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread-bentaxle.jpg   Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread-bentdogbone.jpg   Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread-bentaxle1.jpg  

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Old 09-06-2016, 12:50 AM   #2182
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what other cars did you have before ? can you compair the durability ?


I don't think tekno's steel is worse or better than any other good brand. But, the tekno cars are so stiff ( zero flex from the arms ) that the other parts and ball bearing get more load
for example, hingepins will bend because the arms don't flex. Some people even broke rims because the arms don't flex
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Old 09-06-2016, 12:57 AM   #2183
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I had a bunch of losi's 10+ years ago, then someone broke into my car and stole them.. I just got back into racing in April. I bought a losi SCTe, then sold it and got a Tekno SCT, and then 2 weeks ago this EB. The SCTe had awful wear, the diffs especially... I was just surprised that a few things bent already, and it seemed like odd things to bend... I was expecting the shock tower first.

And I didn't think I would have to replace bearings for months.... But most of them on my eb are terrible right now... A friend showed me a tekno bearing next to a mugen bearing, and it seems like mugen's are better... The tekno bearings are thinner walls/smaller balls
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Old 09-06-2016, 01:59 AM   #2184
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I own both car : the mbx7r eco and the eb48.3 : but I ran the tekno for 2 lipos only so I can't compair the wear
The stiffness of the tekno is what impressed me first : it's a real formula one !
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Old 09-06-2016, 05:14 AM   #2185
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I own 4 tekno cars, an eb48.3, a sct410.3, a nt48.3, and nb48.3. I bought the nt first and it has a little over 2 1/2 gallons on it. The durability of it made me decide to buy the nb but it's been my shelf queen and has never been ran. I bought a 410.3 for my kids but have pretty much taken it over and have raced it once and ran several practice days with it. I bought the eb after the 410.3 and have ran 2 race days and 3 practice days on it, about 20 packs. I have probably been very lucky but have yet to break anything tekno on my cars,and I have had some horrific crashes getting use to electric. I have had a bad servo and a clutch bell bearing go out on the nt. I can't compare tekno to any of the other companies as I left the hobby for about 12 years, and the last car I had was a kyosho kanai 2, but so far the durability of these vehicles has been better than expected for me.
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:38 AM   #2186
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Quote:
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I had a bunch of losi's 10+ years ago, then someone broke into my car and stole them.. I just got back into racing in April. I bought a losi SCTe, then sold it and got a Tekno SCT, and then 2 weeks ago this EB. The SCTe had awful wear, the diffs especially... I was just surprised that a few things bent already, and it seemed like odd things to bend... I was expecting the shock tower first.

And I didn't think I would have to replace bearings for months.... But most of them on my eb are terrible right now... A friend showed me a tekno bearing next to a mugen bearing, and it seems like mugen's are better... The tekno bearings are thinner walls/smaller balls
Quick bearing wear is highly unusual to me. I ran my old sct410.3 for a whole season before replacing all teh bearings, and most didn't need to be replaced. They use calcium in the track surface? That may have some effect. I've never raced on that type of clay, so can't say for sure what may be different.

As you can tell by my sig line, I run a few tekno's, on 16 different tracks in the northeast, and have VERY minimal breakage.
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:53 AM   #2187
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I haven't had too much track time on sct, but it seems to be holding up well. I did have some nasty tumbles on the eb, just bummed that it has issues right now, with the weekend coming up... I take very good care of my stuff, i make sure they are clean, well oiled/greased, etc.. so probably just a fluke from a nasty cartwheel. (for the axle/dogbone), but is there anything I can do about the bearings? Is there another brand of bearings that are more durable?

Honestly love my Tekno, and don't want anything to break... so if anyone has any tips on how to not destroy bearings, id appreciate it.. lol I dont want my baby hurt!!!
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Old 09-06-2016, 10:05 AM   #2188
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Quote:
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I haven't had too much track time on sct, but it seems to be holding up well. I did have some nasty tumbles on the eb, just bummed that it has issues right now, with the weekend coming up... I take very good care of my stuff, i make sure they are clean, well oiled/greased, etc.. so probably just a fluke from a nasty cartwheel. (for the axle/dogbone), but is there anything I can do about the bearings? Is there another brand of bearings that are more durable?

Honestly love my Tekno, and don't want anything to break... so if anyone has any tips on how to not destroy bearings, id appreciate it.. lol I dont want my baby hurt!!!
Big tumbling crashes will mess up wheel bearings with all the side load that gets put on them, also using an air compressor at high pressures can force dirt past the bearing seals and really shorten their life. I like the avid bearings because they're $1 each, you won't really see any better life out of them though because the tekno stock bearings are pretty good.
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Old 09-06-2016, 02:31 PM   #2189
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Does tekno sell kit to convert 410.3 to EB 48.3 or superlite only?
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Old 09-06-2016, 02:40 PM   #2190
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Nope, just to the SL... The EB48.3 comes with all the aluminum upgrades, so it's worth it to buy the EB imo. You would need a lot to get to the actual EB and not the SL.
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