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Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-10-2015, 06:59 PM
  #196  
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Originally Posted by X God
When changing the roll center with the tie-rod should you also change it in the suspension block ?
I'm thinking those are independent adjustments. I'm curious as to when to use links vs blocks to adjust roll center.
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:17 PM
  #197  
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Changing roll center at the block is usually a much bigger change than changing it at the links. Course adjustment vs fine adjustment.
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Old 08-10-2015, 08:43 PM
  #198  
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Ok I'll further the question, I know going up on the tower makes it roll more but how does the block work . There is no up or down just in and out?
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Old 08-11-2015, 03:21 AM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by Dragonfueled
Ok I'll further the question, I know going up on the tower makes it roll more but how does the block work . There is no up or down just in and out?
On the .3 you can go up or down using the pills.
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Old 08-12-2015, 11:47 PM
  #200  
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Thumbs up mp9e xb8e cobra 811 vs eb48.3

Is there anyone who has tried the different cars (MP9e or xb8e or cobra 811 2.0 vs tekno eb48.3) and can compare them?
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Old 08-13-2015, 06:35 AM
  #201  
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Originally Posted by qstorm777
I'm thinking those are independent adjustments. I'm curious as to when to use links vs blocks to adjust roll center.
The tie rod mounting point can have just as much effect and the hinge pin blocks when it comes to adjusting the roll center.

http://thecartech.com/subjects/auto_...oll_Center.htm
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Old 08-13-2015, 12:51 PM
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Anyone have an educated guess as to what universals may fit? I know Tekno is supposed to release their own, but who knows when that will happen.
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Old 08-13-2015, 07:47 PM
  #203  
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Originally Posted by CTDpower
Ok, so further inspection revealed that it felt stiff just as it was bottoming out because that was it, the shocks were are bottoming out too ha. I guess my rc8.2 has more negative travel or whatever you call it.

So is this OK that the shock is bottoming out just as the chassis is or do you want some negative travel. May be easier on the shocks if the chassis is taking the hit vs the shock shaft?
I'm glad someone else noticed this. My rear suspension is super smooth all the way until the chassis hits the ground. In the front, only about 3/4 suspension travel is smooth and then it gets stiff toward the bottom. I never noticed that the shock shaft was bottoming out on the shock body. I'm not real fond of how this feels to be honest. I wonder if some of the shock boot is getting bunched up between the rod end and bottom of the shock body take up the last few millimeters of travel as well.
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Old 08-13-2015, 10:26 PM
  #204  
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Originally Posted by MX304
Anyone have an educated guess as to what universals may fit? I know Tekno is supposed to release their own, but who knows when that will happen.
I heard they were testing Kyosho universals.... not sure how true that is
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Old 08-14-2015, 06:39 AM
  #205  
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Modified my mudguards on the EB48.3 this morning. Just used a single flute carbide 90 Degree countersink. Not a whole lot of material to work with, but I believe this will work.

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Old 08-14-2015, 09:28 PM
  #206  
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Originally Posted by revhead145
I heard they were testing Kyosho universals.... not sure how true that is
Thanks. I'll see if someone has a set I can check fitment with.
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:19 AM
  #207  
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I ran my new eb48.3 tonight for its maiden voyage at SDRC. The car ran great! It still had great steering and with more traction. I felt that the stock black front springs were too soft for the clay surface so I ended up with kyosho orange springs all around. I also I'm not happy with the bit of slop that the car has when built...but it's easy enough to shim it away. After the spring change the car felt better & I ended finishing 3rd. Thank you tekno for the new ride, love everything about the new buggy aside from the slop.
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Old 08-16-2015, 05:54 PM
  #208  
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Anyone try the Fioroni pistons with the longer .3 shocks? I'm about to convert my .2 to a .3 and wasn't sure if I should keep the Fioroni 6 hole pistons in it or go with the new Tekno .3 pistons...
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Old 08-16-2015, 06:22 PM
  #209  
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Originally Posted by suzukipro
Anyone try the Fioroni pistons with the longer .3 shocks? I'm about to convert my .2 to a .3 and wasn't sure if I should keep the Fioroni 6 hole pistons in it or go with the new Tekno .3 pistons...
Try both, but I'd be willing to be the new 4X1.8 holes will be much better. I tried the 6X1.5 tekno piston in my .3 just to see how it handled and it was not good at all. I went right back to the 4X1.8. The shock dynamics between the angle the shocks sit, the long stroke, and the resulting increase in shaft speed will be a new challenge. Traditional shock piston, spring, and oil packages probably won't work.
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Old 08-16-2015, 06:25 PM
  #210  
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Originally Posted by CTDpower
When you guys are swappin pistons are you just trashing the shock oil and refilling, or do you save the oil in the shocks, maybe pour it back in the bottle?
If it's clean and clear, why not put it back in.. I mean, if I filled my shocks and didn't like the way it felt, yes I put it back in the bottle..it's a waste
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