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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-08-2016, 10:11 AM   #2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caffeine357 View Post
yeah im definitely going to contact SMC and ive heard they are always great so no worry there. i would take apart the motor myself but not worth it since i have no idea what im doing. Id definitely seems like this was the problem no doubt.

I always want to have an extra motor on hand for this reason and so im not completely out of commission so which hobbywing one do you recommend? I might just buy that while im waiting for the SMC warranty repair.

Im gonna get one metal and 1 plastic replacement. I hear what youre saying about it going out in a race which would suck.

Thanks all
I'm running all SMC myself. Really like the 2100kv. I'll be grabbing another soon, which will regulate my 1900kv to backup.
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:12 AM   #2012
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Originally Posted by carpetburner View Post
Just got back from my local blown out rutted track. I really enjoyed the 3 hole pistons with 700f 750r. Also ran 2 degree toe out and it fixed the push I was having.
My setup also. It works well for me

Quote:
Originally Posted by weedsnager View Post
Do the camber links only come in one length?

I've heard a few people say "I used the shortest camber link"
What are they referring to ?
Means inside on hub\castor, and the closest tower side holes.
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The oval 3some -> Tekno SCT410.3 - Tekno SCT210.3 - Blitz

Sponsors: Fiercercsolutions.com, AKA, jtbearingco.com, CowRC, Walden Designs, Leadfinger Racing, And BoomRC.net
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:28 AM   #2013
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You can adjust the length of the camber links by placing them in different holes on the shock tower and hub and then shortening or lengthen to get you correct camber. Short link would be outer hole on the tower and inner hole on the hub
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:52 PM   #2014
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Having a hard time finding the Tekno tuning guide link.
Would somebody please post the link.
Thanks,
Mike
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:10 PM   #2015
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Having a hard time finding the Tekno tuning guide link.
Would somebody please post the link.
Thanks,
Mike
No such thing published.
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The off-road Tekno 3some-> EB48.4 - ET48.3 - SCT410.3
The oval 3some -> Tekno SCT410.3 - Tekno SCT210.3 - Blitz

Sponsors: Fiercercsolutions.com, AKA, jtbearingco.com, CowRC, Walden Designs, Leadfinger Racing, And BoomRC.net
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Old 08-08-2016, 06:04 PM   #2016
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Originally Posted by GreenMachine14 View Post
Having a hard time finding the Tekno tuning guide link.
Would somebody please post the link.
Thanks,
Mike
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6uzcucwqch...essed.pdf?dl=0 . This is the tekno setup guide . Its 1.17 mb so its too big to post on here as a pdf. So this is the link to my dropbox.
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Old 08-08-2016, 06:29 PM   #2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carpetburner View Post
Just got back from my local blown out rutted track. I really enjoyed the 3 hole pistons with 700f 750r. Also ran 2 degree toe out and it fixed the push I was having.
Taper up or down ?
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:02 PM   #2018
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Originally Posted by weedsnager View Post
Taper up or down ?
ran taper down \ / with zero rebound . Had to hit the backside of the triple to avoid chassis slap . If I aired it out into the flats it was difficult to land clean . But it was like driving a different car . Very smooth and forgiving .
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:57 PM   #2019
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Thinking about buying a electric buggy, currently I have a Losi SCTe and a Tekno SCT 410.3. I love both, and used to have a few Losi's years ago. But so far I love my Tekno SCT, it's very well made and was fun to build... It's super durable and handles great, but wasn't sure how the EB48.3 compared to the 8ight 4.0. Any info would be appreciated!
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Old 08-08-2016, 08:34 PM   #2020
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Originally Posted by carpetburner View Post
ran taper down \ / with zero rebound . Had to hit the backside of the triple to avoid chassis slap . If I aired it out into the flats it was difficult to land clean . But it was like driving a different car . Very smooth and forgiving .
Ok, I just ordered the 3 hole piston. I'm having a hell of a time getting this buggy figured out, I'm ready to throw it off a cliff. The local outdoor track is dry with loose dirt most of the time and the rear end of the buggy is all over the place in the corners.
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:30 PM   #2021
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Originally Posted by weedsnager View Post
Ok, I just ordered the 3 hole piston. I'm having a hell of a time getting this buggy figured out, I'm ready to throw it off a cliff. The local outdoor track is dry with loose dirt most of the time and the rear end of the buggy is all over the place in the corners.
Removing the middle and rear brace helps lock in the tail a bit . Also 2 or 3k in the rear diff . I am at 5-5-3 .
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:49 PM   #2022
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Originally Posted by carpetburner View Post
Removing the middle and rear brace helps lock in the tail a bit . Also 2 or 3k in the rear diff . I am at 5-5-3 .
That's what I've got, only the front brace and 5-5-2
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Old 08-09-2016, 05:09 AM   #2023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weedsnager View Post
Ok, I just ordered the 3 hole piston. I'm having a hell of a time getting this buggy figured out, I'm ready to throw it off a cliff. The local outdoor track is dry with loose dirt most of the time and the rear end of the buggy is all over the place in the corners.
Have you tried the the Bornhorst wicked weekend nb48.3 setup? I raced mine for the first time this weekend and it was 90% dialed, could of used a little more forward bite but was great in turns
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Old 08-09-2016, 07:38 AM   #2024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weedsnager View Post
Ok, I just ordered the 3 hole piston. I'm having a hell of a time getting this buggy figured out, I'm ready to throw it off a cliff. The local outdoor track is dry with loose dirt most of the time and the rear end of the buggy is all over the place in the corners.
Hey do me a favor, tear your car apart and rebuild it. Just to ensure everything is smooth, no binding, nothing mechanically wrong.

Important points to note:
- Ensure you have 4 washers behind the steering spindle to limit steering throw mechanically. I use 1 2mm washer, which is the total of the 4 washers
- Build the car with pistons taper up. I made the mistake of running taper down and the car was a hand full to drive.
- do the arm mod (all that's required is a dremel and about 10 min of your time) to increase the car's handling on big bumps and jumps.
- If you're NOT using PT Brand oils, let me know what oils you are using. If possible, you want to switch to those oils so that you're on the same page as the rest of the team. PT oils are considerably thinner.

Then put this setup on your car.

http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...ern%20Nats.pdf


Also if you could post a pic / video of your track, that would help.

It may seem like a lot of work, but trust me, you'll be amazingly happy. Feel free to message me directly if you need help with something.
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Old 08-09-2016, 07:51 AM   #2025
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Originally Posted by mxrcracer23 View Post
Have you tried the the Bornhorst wicked weekend nb48.3 setup? I raced mine for the first time this weekend and it was 90% dialed, could of used a little more forward bite but was great in turns
The Wicked Weekend setup was early on in the .3 car. I think his setup evolved greatly from there. Remember in the WW setup, he was using 6 hole pistons (which we never use anymore) and the .2 shock towers (which we don't use any more).

I found his Southern Nats setup to be a bit more user friendly. And after speaking with Joe, he uses his SN setup as his starting point for both EB and NB. This is clearly evident when you look at his latest setup from AMS. It's very very close. 25cst thicker oil, slightly lower ride height and droop, litle less anti squat, one step thinner front sway bar. All the links, shock positions, diffs, pistons, etc. are all the same.

If you haven't tried yet, I highly suggest it.
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