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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-04-2016, 02:40 PM   #1996
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I use AKA wheels and have zero rub. I wonder if AKA had a batch of wheels that came out "defective"? When I look at the back of the wheel with it mounted, I can still see a bit of the hex sticking out. That's with stock width wheel hexes.
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Old 08-04-2016, 05:59 PM   #1997
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I've seen wheels of various manufacturers eventually build up enough flex to rub on some nasty side landings and stuff, but nothing that makes it normal unless I was blowing an outer bearing so the whole shaft could push further into the hub/spindle.
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Old 08-05-2016, 09:46 PM   #1998
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
I use AKA wheels and have zero rub. I wonder if AKA had a batch of wheels that came out "defective"? When I look at the back of the wheel with it mounted, I can still see a bit of the hex sticking out. That's with stock width wheel hexes.
I measured the depth of the part that mounts on the hub on all my rims. The AKA rims that rub are about 1/2 mm deeper then the other rims. Wheels spin with no resistance. Looks like they only rub when I turn or maybe land. All wheel bearings look good. I also have different style AKA rims that are not as deep and are fine.
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:30 PM   #1999
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Turns out mine are not rubbing . I actually had a bent rim . How this buggy will bend the rims before any of its components fail is just amazing .
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Old 08-06-2016, 12:46 AM   #2000
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because tekno uses very stiff plastics with a rigid construction ! other brands's arms will bend a bit and the rims won't get so much abuse
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Old 08-07-2016, 06:05 AM   #2001
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Default Stripped Spur Gear

The first problem is my spur is stripped and when replacing im wondering if you guys opt for the metal spur or keep rolling with the plastic one.


The problem appears to be that the pole on my smc motor is moving up and down by like an inch so the pinion slid out of place and tore up the spur.

have you guys seen this before? would it be covered by the smc warranty? im relatively new to rc so ive never heard of this before.

Thanks!
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:05 AM   #2002
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Originally Posted by caffeine357 View Post
The first problem is my spur is stripped and when replacing im wondering if you guys opt for the metal spur or keep rolling with the plastic one.


The problem appears to be that the pole on my smc motor is moving up and down by like an inch so the pinion slid out of place and tore up the spur.

have you guys seen this before? would it be covered by the smc warranty? im relatively new to rc so ive never heard of this before.

Thanks!
I love SMC batteries, only thing I run.. but I had some really bad luck w/ their motors myself.. I had at least 2 of them basically come apart, manu defect.. I'm pretty sure it was a common problem. This may have been addressed in a more recent version but I'd make sure the back of the motor isn't pulling right off. He did handle the issue with out question, good service A+. Time for a new motor though.. myself I've been using the hobbywings, they are flawless as good as any other if you want super smooth and reliable at a great value. I've run the ebuggy's for 3+ years and never once stripped a plastic spur, the tekno motor mount is great and as long as you verify the motor hasn't moved when you check over your car btw runs or races you won't have issues. The metal spur gear I do run in the truggy, not because I had one strip but just insurance.. they are huge beasts.. lol and I don't want to have a spur end a heat or main for me, that said I know guys who run the plastic and don't have issues, they certainly are much quieter
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:58 AM   #2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caffeine357 View Post
The first problem is my spur is stripped and when replacing im wondering if you guys opt for the metal spur or keep rolling with the plastic one.


The problem appears to be that the pole on my smc motor is moving up and down by like an inch so the pinion slid out of place and tore up the spur.

have you guys seen this before? would it be covered by the smc warranty? im relatively new to rc so ive never heard of this before.

Thanks!
The stock plastic spur gears only get messed up in a situation like you described. Bad motor etc. Otherwise, they are bomb proof.
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Old 08-07-2016, 10:10 AM   #2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caffeine357 View Post
The first problem is my spur is stripped and when replacing im wondering if you guys opt for the metal spur or keep rolling with the plastic one.


The problem appears to be that the pole on my smc motor is moving up and down by like an inch so the pinion slid out of place and tore up the spur.

have you guys seen this before? would it be covered by the smc warranty? im relatively new to rc so ive never heard of this before.

Thanks!
Most likely the front bearing is bad in the motor. Guy I race with just had one explode Friday. Took out the whole motor. No warning either. Usually u can hear or feel a bearing get rough. Not this time.
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Old 08-07-2016, 12:26 PM   #2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
I love SMC batteries, only thing I run.. but I had some really bad luck w/ their motors myself.. I had at least 2 of them basically come apart, manu defect.. I'm pretty sure it was a common problem. This may have been addressed in a more recent version but I'd make sure the back of the motor isn't pulling right off. He did handle the issue with out question, good service A+. Time for a new motor though.. myself I've been using the hobbywings, they are flawless as good as any other if you want super smooth and reliable at a great value. I've run the ebuggy's for 3+ years and never once stripped a plastic spur, the tekno motor mount is great and as long as you verify the motor hasn't moved when you check over your car btw runs or races you won't have issues. The metal spur gear I do run in the truggy, not because I had one strip but just insurance.. they are huge beasts.. lol and I don't want to have a spur end a heat or main for me, that said I know guys who run the plastic and don't have issues, they certainly are much quieter
yeah im definitely going to contact SMC and ive heard they are always great so no worry there. i would take apart the motor myself but not worth it since i have no idea what im doing. Id definitely seems like this was the problem no doubt.

I always want to have an extra motor on hand for this reason and so im not completely out of commission so which hobbywing one do you recommend? I might just buy that while im waiting for the SMC warranty repair.

Im gonna get one metal and 1 plastic replacement. I hear what youre saying about it going out in a race which would suck.

Thanks all
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Old 08-07-2016, 05:59 PM   #2006
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Do a lot of people run chassis protectors? I know this is dumb question but it seems to make it kind of a pain to do maintenance and cleaning
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:05 PM   #2007
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alot dont on the tekno that ive seen. so I never got one for mine

I think its mostly cosmetic with a car youre gonna beat up a ton outside.
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:21 PM   #2008
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Do a lot of people run chassis protectors? I know this is dumb question but it seems to make it kind of a pain to do maintenance and cleaning
I have never seen anyone run a chassis protector on any E-buggy that is run outdoors.
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:13 PM   #2009
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Just got back from my local blown out rutted track. I really enjoyed the 3 hole pistons with 700f 750r. Also ran 2 degree toe out and it fixed the push I was having.
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Old 08-08-2016, 09:50 AM   #2010
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Do the camber links only come in one length?

I've heard a few people say "I used the shortest camber link"
What are they referring to ?
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