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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 07-24-2016, 05:07 PM   #1966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
I've never had an issue with shattering outdrives, but the new ones are even tougher than the standard ones, so maybe you should try a set of these as a replacement.
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5114x...sed-lightened/
Yes, my local team member pointed me in the direction of those as well. Also, I got some time to tear the front end down and found out the inner hing pin on that side ripped halfway out of the arm. I'm assuming with the amount of play the arm had from 4 months of wear that hard of a landing would cause that to happen.

Weird thing is. No bent shaft no, bent camber link and I only bent that sides hinge pin. I've heard of blank drill bits being used for more durable hing pins. Is this true?
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Old 07-24-2016, 06:50 PM   #1967
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Originally Posted by NoobRacer View Post
Sheesh! How are you guys getting away with such light shock oils like 30-40?

I've tried all oil weights and did multiple rebuilds of my shock and if I have light oils I felt as though the rebound was way to fast and made the car very bouncy and easily upset.

I'm currently running 50f/55r.
Agreed same here.. I'm at 45f/50r pink front / red rear with the stock 4 hole pistons and think i still can go up from there. I have very little rebounded front and rear. The front end is very springy still with 45AE. When i land big jumps the rear end kicks up.
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Old 07-25-2016, 12:34 AM   #1968
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Agreed same here.. I'm at 45f/50r pink front / red rear with the stock 4 hole pistons and think i still can go up from there. I have very little rebounded front and rear. The front end is very springy still with 45AE. When i land big jumps the rear end kicks up.
And I thought I was the only one! Granted, it's been about 100 during every race I attend so I may go 55f/60r. I hope this helps with the bouncy front end.
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Old 07-25-2016, 03:46 PM   #1969
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Originally Posted by Cuebulon View Post
Yes, my local team member pointed me in the direction of those as well. Also, I got some time to tear the front end down and found out the inner hing pin on that side ripped halfway out of the arm. I'm assuming with the amount of play the arm had from 4 months of wear that hard of a landing would cause that to happen.

Weird thing is. No bent shaft no, bent camber link and I only bent that sides hinge pin. I've heard of blank drill bits being used for more durable hing pins. Is this true?
Drill blanks aren't actually stiffer in most cases. Some have gone to Lunsford Ti, but personally I'd rather bend a hinge pin than rip off an arm. While handling will be odd with a bent hinge pin, you can still finish the race to bring home a podium when on the last laps somebody jumps into the front corner of your car while you were wide open down the straight, rather than becoming a DNF.
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:52 PM   #1970
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Has anyone ever shattered an outdrive on the front diff? I dont really know how it happened. I came down a little rough on a landing from someone tapping me in the air. I was able to make it to the next little jump and then boom. I'm running a 3x4 buggy.
I seen someone have the same problem because they left out the droop limiter screws. Might want to check your droop.
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:37 PM   #1971
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Originally Posted by proliteandsc View Post
I seen someone have the same problem because they left out the droop limiter screws. Might want to check your droop.
I had actually thought about that. I made my droop shorter in front and rear because i was on a tight small track with small jumps and forgot to adjust it accordingly to a large track with large jumps. Thank you for bringing that to my attention. I hadn't thought much about it, but maybe that is the culprit.
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Old 07-27-2016, 04:31 AM   #1972
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Running on an outdoor track with no landing for the jumps and I slap wheelie and bottom out bad. Stock pistons and I'm up to 50wt oils but still slaps. My truggy is fine. Can I increase the pack without killing bump handeling? The only Pistons I see reduce pack.
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Old 07-27-2016, 04:35 AM   #1973
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What right height are you using ? Also how do you set the ride height ?
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Old 07-27-2016, 07:35 AM   #1974
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Originally Posted by Dragonfueled View Post
Running on an outdoor track with no landing for the jumps and I slap wheelie and bottom out bad. Stock pistons and I'm up to 50wt oils but still slaps. My truggy is fine. Can I increase the pack without killing bump handeling? The only Pistons I see reduce pack.
Have you tried these:

http://www.visionracingproducts.com/...H16-13GMTK.htm

Has both compression and rebound valves. Compression valves close on hard impact, effectively reducing the amount of open piston holes, creating more pack.
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:15 AM   #1975
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Originally Posted by vwduud View Post
Have you tried these:

http://www.visionracingproducts.com/...H16-13GMTK.htm

Has both compression and rebound valves. Compression valves close on hard impact, effectively reducing the amount of open piston holes, creating more pack.
i didn't realize those were out for tekno's yet. Thnaks.
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:52 AM   #1976
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Originally Posted by SLO county race View Post
all done with assembly!!! Just need to solder up the motor, paint the body and find more double sided tape for my esc. Going with a simple white body for the first one. Not a big fan of the stock body. Build was pretty much flawless, i did notice a few differences between the 'build manual' and the 'set up sheet' in the back but it wasnt a major problem or anything. Cant wait to take this out either this weekend or next!

Edit: got it wired painted and running. Had some serious issues with the spray cans so my white turned into a trippy purple since I added metallic blue to it. I also got to excited and forgot to cover up the window with the stickers they gave you haha. Thankfully this will turn into a practice body.



That looks strangely familiar
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Old 07-27-2016, 02:50 PM   #1977
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I have just finished my build but to me the front suspension feels almost springy, if that is the right word, compared to the rear which feels nice and plush. Any input would be greatly appreciated
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Old 07-27-2016, 06:21 PM   #1978
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You may want to flip the battery around and shorten the battery wires.
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Old 07-27-2016, 06:56 PM   #1979
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I wanted to try something new so I thought about an SCT, but ended up w/a buggy. I thought about converting the EB into an SCT, but then decided no.
Parts list:
Kit: EB48.3
ESC: Tekin RX8 Gen2
Motor: 1350kv truggy
Servo: Hitec 7950TH
TX/RX: Futaba 4PX / R204GF-E
Tekno: TKR5262 aluminum cd mount, TKR5211X lite motor mount, TKR5791 SCT body mounts
AE: Wide Hexes 89330
Body: JConcepts Illuzion Rustler
Wheels/Tires: Pro-Line Desperado/Badlands 3.8
Bumper/Skid: Front TBR bumper/Rear DE Racing XD skid
Diff oils F/C/R: 50/500/30
Shock oils F/R: 60/50








Quote:
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Do SCT410.3 body mounts work w/the EB48.3's shock towers?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
Yes
Unfortunately the SCT body mounts aren't a direct fit to the EB shock towers, however I was able to use them. The SCT rear will almost slip on the EB front w/minor dremeling.
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Old 07-27-2016, 08:49 PM   #1980
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I have just finished my build but to me the front suspension feels almost springy, if that is the right word, compared to the rear which feels nice and plush. Any input would be greatly appreciated
Look about 9 posts up.
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