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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 07-23-2016, 01:51 AM   #1951
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Originally Posted by proliteandsc View Post
I started with Joes Southern Nats and made a few changes.
Front arm shock mount is A.
2mm rear wheel offset.
Front shock 32.5 AE
Rear shock 37.5 AE
Diff 7,10,3 AE

Track is outside smedium dusty hard packed clay, sometimes wet. I guess about medium grip.

I tried calibers, subcultures, hole shots, crime fighters, sweeps, all about half worn.

I did notice the servo saver could be made tighter. That might help. I'll try that next time I race.
Anyone have any ideas what I need to change to get this car around wide turns? It pushes when turning on power.
My setup is very close to yours . The only thing that I have tried that eliminated the push was switching the caster blocks and trailing spindles out and running the .2 spindle/ blocks. Unfortunately this made the buggy twitchy and difficult to run clean lines so i put the .3's back on. My track is a 1/10 scale style track with 3 180s and does not flow well . How do you like that center diff at 10k?? Thinkin about goin heavier on my center diff as my front tires balloon a lot.
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Last edited by carpetburner; 07-23-2016 at 02:21 AM.
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Old 07-23-2016, 08:27 AM   #1952
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Woke up early this morning to start on the buggy. Got it last night around 8 from ups and started around 530 this morning on it. First kit I've built and it's been going flawlessly. Can't wait to finish



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Old 07-23-2016, 11:30 AM   #1953
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Originally Posted by SLO county race View Post
Woke up early this morning to start on the buggy. Got it last night around 8 from ups and started around 530 this morning on it. First kit I've built and it's been going flawlessly. Can't wait to finish



I loved building this kit . I goofed and wedged my shims in a bit crooked on the diffs but they bent back straight after a few tries .
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Old 07-23-2016, 12:22 PM   #1954
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if you haven't already, look on the first page of this thread. There are several handle build tips that will ease the process. Like the chamfers on the dif case to ease the shim insertion.
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Old 07-23-2016, 01:50 PM   #1955
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Originally Posted by NoobRacer View Post
Shock bladders!?!?!? Has anyone or does anyone know if other shock bladders work for the eb48.3? I'm trying to stock up on bladders cause they rip or get big after a few changes and don't seal. So instead of getting the tekno one that comes as a rebuild kit, I just want the bladders, but unfortunately they don't sell those alone. I'm thinking other 1/8th bladders would work. Because I see other companies sell like 8 packs for like 6 bucks vs 2 and rebuild kit for like 9 bucks.

Thanks
If I recall correctly, I ran these back in my eb48 days which assuming nothing has changed shock dimension wise should still fit:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/serpent...600357/p190581

and by default, these would be a cheap option then:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/serpent...600111/p173624

Ran against some Tekno's today, track with small jumps mainly a driving track, that battery upfront definitely gave an advantage with on power steering.

If Tekno makes an EB48.4 version, I hope they look into including what has become some of the common items to pick up out of the box. Be a nice touch.
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Old 07-23-2016, 08:22 PM   #1956
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Originally Posted by carpetburner View Post
My setup is very close to yours . The only thing that I have tried that eliminated the push was switching the caster blocks and trailing spindles out and running the .2 spindle/ blocks. Unfortunately this made the buggy twitchy and difficult to run clean lines so i put the .3's back on. My track is a 1/10 scale style track with 3 180s and does not flow well . How do you like that center diff at 10k?? Thinkin about goin heavier on my center diff as my front tires balloon a lot.
I like the way it handles. Just looking to fix the push in long corners. We really only have one semi long turn, but it's right before the straight. It would be great if I can get it turning better there without sacrificing the handling elsewhere.

I noticed my servo saver was about 5 or 6 turns out. Now it's 1. Racing tomorrow, will see what happens.
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Old 07-23-2016, 11:37 PM   #1957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carpetburner View Post
I loved building this kit . I goofed and wedged my shims in a bit crooked on the diffs but they bent back straight after a few tries .
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkl View Post
if you haven't already, look on the first page of this thread. There are several handle build tips that will ease the process. Like the chamfers on the dif case to ease the shim insertion.
Actually i havent had any issues at all with the diff shims. ive got the front and rear diffs, arms, sway bar, etc all done. my forearms and fingers were killing me so i stopped haha. just time to get the steering together, shocks, and electronics/chassis done by tomorrow
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Old 07-24-2016, 05:35 AM   #1958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
If I recall correctly, I ran these back in my eb48 days which assuming nothing has changed shock dimension wise should still fit:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/serpent...600357/p190581

and by default, these would be a cheap option then:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/serpent...600111/p173624

Ran against some Tekno's today, track with small jumps mainly a driving track, that battery upfront definitely gave an advantage with on power steering.

If Tekno makes an EB48.4 version, I hope they look into including what has become some of the common items to pick up out of the box. Be a nice touch.
What battery up front do you speak of?
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Old 07-24-2016, 07:44 AM   #1959
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Originally Posted by RcJunky76 View Post
What battery up front do you speak of?
Tekno's standard battery position is more "upfront" than durango's setup where there is a receiver box towards the front with the battery more towards the rear, hence more on power steering. Variety of designs these days that going on as well taking a queue probably from tekno.
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Old 07-24-2016, 08:38 AM   #1960
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Sheesh! How are you guys getting away with such light shock oils like 30-40?

I've tried all oil weights and did multiple rebuilds of my shock and if I have light oils I felt as though the rebound was way to fast and made the car very bouncy and easily upset.

I'm currently running 50f/55r.
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Old 07-24-2016, 08:48 AM   #1961
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Originally Posted by NoobRacer View Post
Sheesh! How are you guys getting away with such light shock oils like 30-40?

I've tried all oil weights and did multiple rebuilds of my shock and if I have light oils I felt as though the rebound was way to fast and made the car very bouncy and easily upset.

I'm currently running 50f/55r.
could be relative to your track conditions as well as piston choices.
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Old 07-24-2016, 09:15 AM   #1962
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Has anyone ever shattered an outdrive on the front diff? I dont really know how it happened. I came down a little rough on a landing from someone tapping me in the air. I was able to make it to the next little jump and then boom. I'm running a 3x4 buggy.
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Old 07-24-2016, 09:33 AM   #1963
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Has anyone ever shattered an outdrive on the front diff? I dont really know how it happened. I came down a little rough on a landing from someone tapping me in the air. I was able to make it to the next little jump and then boom. I'm running a 3x4 buggy.
I snapped one in half a couple weeks ago.
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Old 07-24-2016, 03:17 PM   #1964
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Originally Posted by Cuebulon View Post
Has anyone ever shattered an outdrive on the front diff? I dont really know how it happened. I came down a little rough on a landing from someone tapping me in the air. I was able to make it to the next little jump and then boom. I'm running a 3x4 buggy.
I've never had an issue with shattering outdrives, but the new ones are even tougher than the standard ones, so maybe you should try a set of these as a replacement.
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5114x...sed-lightened/
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Old 07-24-2016, 03:37 PM   #1965
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all done with assembly!!! Just need to solder up the motor, paint the body and find more double sided tape for my esc. Going with a simple white body for the first one. Not a big fan of the stock body. Build was pretty much flawless, i did notice a few differences between the 'build manual' and the 'set up sheet' in the back but it wasnt a major problem or anything. Cant wait to take this out either this weekend or next!

Edit: got it wired painted and running. Had some serious issues with the spray cans so my white turned into a trippy purple since I added metallic blue to it. I also got to excited and forgot to cover up the window with the stickers they gave you haha. Thankfully this will turn into a practice body.




Last edited by SLO county race; 07-24-2016 at 06:48 PM.
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