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Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-05-2015, 11:47 AM
  #181  
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'Upside down' in this case means the taper or cone point is on top.

We don't recommend using the previous design (conical) pistons upside down as this reduces down travel too much. This is why we went to the taper design so that you can run them upside down and not lose any down travel.
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Old 08-05-2015, 12:17 PM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by teknorc
'Upside down' in this case means the taper or cone point is on top.

We don't recommend using the previous design (conical) pistons upside down as this reduces down travel too much. This is why we went to the taper design so that you can run them upside down and not lose any down travel.
O.K., let me try to re-state what I think you are saying. There are two types of pistons, conical and tapered.

The 4x1.8 tapered pistons are included in the kit and they should be installed taper side up/flat side down.

The 6x1.6 pistons are the conical style and if I decide to use them, these should actually be installed with the dome side facing down. Running the conical pistons with the dome side up reduces too much down travel.

Do I have this correct?
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Old 08-05-2015, 01:30 PM
  #183  
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Default Pistons

Originally Posted by Wease
O.K., let me try to re-state what I think you are saying. There are two types of pistons, conical and tapered.

The 4x1.8 tapered pistons are included in the kit and they should be installed taper side up/flat side down.

The 6x1.6 pistons are the conical style and if I decide to use them, these should actually be installed with the dome side facing down. Running the conical pistons with the dome side up reduces too much down travel.

Do I have this correct?
Yes that is correct. Does not show in the EB48.3 manual but is in the NB48.3 manual.
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Old 08-05-2015, 04:37 PM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by MX304
They are supposed to be installed taper side up, which as you said, will reduce pack. When I originally built my car I had them in flat side up, then switched them to taper side up. The car worked well both ways but was better with the taper up. I also tried the 6X1.6 pistons. That didn't work nearly as well as the 4X1.8 for our track.
Can you give some idea of the handling differences between the 4x1.8 and the 6x1.6 pistons? Just trying to figure this stuff out.

Thanks.
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Old 08-05-2015, 06:27 PM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by home13oy75
I just purchased a used EB48.2. Can I slowly replace my existing parts to the new .3 - or does it all need to be changed at once to work?
You MUST replace some of them in sections. For example, you can't use the longer shocks without the new arms and hubs.

You CAN replace sections apart from each other (for example only the front or the back). You will have very odd setups and possible handling issues, but it can be done.

It is RECOMMENDED that you replace at least all of the major components (shocks, arms, spindles/hubs, towers) in the front and back at the same time. You CAN wait on the v2 hinge pin holders if you haven't already gotten them, though many of the new setups make use of positions that require them.
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Old 08-06-2015, 11:20 AM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by HoldDaMayo
Can you give some idea of the handling differences between the 4x1.8 and the 6x1.6 pistons? Just trying to figure this stuff out.

Thanks.
You can get them to feel similar, but the short story is that the new tapered pistons are a little more consistent in most conditions because the compression/rebound differential is closer.

The coned pistons pack up more and give quicker rebound which is good for smoother tracks. They should provide higher corner speeds.

The new tapered pistons have a more subtle compression/rebound differential and are suited for rougher tracks. They should provide more stability.
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Old 08-06-2015, 08:57 PM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by teknorc
You can get them to feel similar, but the short story is that the new tapered pistons are a little more consistent in most conditions because the compression/rebound differential is closer.

The coned pistons pack up more and give quicker rebound which is good for smoother tracks. They should provide higher corner speeds.

The new tapered pistons have a more subtle compression/rebound differential and are suited for rougher tracks. They should provide more stability.
Thanks for the explanation. Everyday learning more and more. When I built my kit I used the white tapered pistons because they just looked better to me, not sure why, just looked smoother or something. I put the taper down. I assume you can run taper up or down and it would be a preference or tuning thing. Am I correct to assume that running taper down will provide more pack and quicker rebound? But since it is such a small taper the difference is subtle and a person may not even notice a difference between running them upside down or right side up?
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:00 PM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by teknorc
You can get them to feel similar, but the short story is that the new tapered pistons are a little more consistent in most conditions because the compression/rebound differential is closer.

The coned pistons pack up more and give quicker rebound which is good for smoother tracks. They should provide higher corner speeds.

The new tapered pistons have a more subtle compression/rebound differential and are suited for rougher tracks. They should provide more stability.
Got 3 packs through my new EB48.3 this evening and started with the 6x1.6 conical pistons. Tekno is right on the money about the quick rebound in these pistons. The buggy would land a really tall and long double without chassis slapping, but the buggy wanted to jump back up off the track because the rebound was so fast. It did the same thing on smaller jumps but obviously not as bad, but it would make the buggy lose rear traction If I got on the throttle to quick because the weight had come off the rear end. I did not like the feel of those pistons in this buggy. I prefer my buggy to pack and stay sucked to the track and slowly rebound. Headed back to the track tomorrow for more practice before a big race and I put the 4x1.8 tapered pistons in the buggy when I got home. Can't wait to see what these feel like.
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:43 PM
  #189  
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When you guys are swappin pistons are you just trashing the shock oil and refilling, or do you save the oil in the shocks, maybe pour it back in the bottle?
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by CTDpower
When you guys are swappin pistons are you just trashing the shock oil and refilling, or do you save the oil in the shocks, maybe pour it back in the bottle?
I've personally never seen anyone try and reuse shock oil. It's cheap and fresh oil always performs the best anyway
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Old 08-07-2015, 05:39 AM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by CTDpower
When you guys are swappin pistons are you just trashing the shock oil and refilling, or do you save the oil in the shocks, maybe pour it back in the bottle?
It depends. If the oil is pretty fresh and I want to make a quick shock piston change, you can technically do that with just a quick topoff. I think many will dump or also make an oil viscosity change at the same time.
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Old 08-07-2015, 12:11 PM
  #192  
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I run on some quite bumpy dirt and astro tracks in the uk should I be running my shock pistons with the flat facing up or down
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Old 08-07-2015, 02:09 PM
  #193  
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Originally Posted by jon may
I run on some quite bumpy dirt and astro tracks in the uk should I be running my shock pistons with the flat facing up or down
Hello,

You would want to run the flat side down. This will slow the rebound down and allow the car to stay more planted on a bumpy surface.
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Old 08-07-2015, 02:25 PM
  #194  
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Originally Posted by ZERTA RACING
Hello,

You would want to run the flat side down. This will slow the rebound down and allow the car to stay more planted on a bumpy surface.
thanks
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:18 AM
  #195  
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When changing the roll center with the tie-rod should you also change it in the suspension block ?
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