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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-13-2016, 06:44 AM   #1786
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
Has anyone tried the 3X2.1 pistons yet?
Yes. Not a fan for my track conditions. I think you need to be on a REALLLLLLLY blown out track. Don't forget to run oils in the 700-750 range as well when you try them.
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:08 AM   #1787
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Yes. Not a fan for my track conditions. I think you need to be on a REALLLLLLLY blown out track. Don't forget to run oils in the 700-750 range as well when you try them.

Thanks. Our track is always dry, slick, and very blown out. I've always felt like the 4X1.8s had too much pack and the car gets kicked around a lot where some other brand cars don't.
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:13 AM   #1788
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Thanks. Our track is always dry, slick, and very blown out. I've always felt like the 4X1.8s had too much pack and the car gets kicked around a lot where some other brand cars don't.
then definitely give them a try. Illias told me that he runs 700 front and 750 rear. Mark from our region (mid atlantic) runs 675 fr and 750 rear. I tried 600/650. I'll give them another try later in the summer with thicker oils because I did NOT like them with that thin of an oil.
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:12 AM   #1789
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got to tune the car on saturday.. went up in shock oil weight in the rear to aid in the rear 'bouncing' on landing and through the rougher areas of the track.. also changed the rear outer pin setting to 2 dots middle and that calmed the rear end down too..

I need to go up in the front shock oil weight as well I think.. really, really like this car and how it responds to setup tweaks.
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Old 06-13-2016, 05:16 PM   #1790
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Do SCT410.3 body mounts work w/the EB48.3's shock towers?
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Old 06-13-2016, 06:18 PM   #1791
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Do SCT410.3 body mounts work w/the EB48.3's shock towers?
Yes
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Old 06-13-2016, 06:33 PM   #1792
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Yes
Really ? I tried it once I think the rear worked but the front was to wide
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:07 PM   #1793
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Originally Posted by RcJunky76 View Post
Got to test at the track yesterday and had blast. I'm finding the rear like to spin out a lot in all driving controls but really bad under braking. Any adjustments you guys would recommend to help tame this down.
Also looking for setting on turning. This thing will turn on a dime and speeds with sharp turns are not always good.

I'm all stock out of box set up other then red and pink springs.. Thanks you
I had the exact same experience racing on a super high bite track this past weekend. Box stock setup, including springs.....car was very loose when I would hit the brakes to enter a turn. Also, once it started to step out, there was very little that could be done to stop it.

I tried lowering rear ride height to 27, reduced droop to 116 / 131, took 1 deg of anti-squat out, and tried 7K center diff.....each change made one at a time. The reduced droop, and anti-squat seemed to have the best effect, but it was still doing it at the end of the day. The next thing that I was going to look at was going to a longer rear camber link.

Aside from the loose rear end off power, I was very happy with the car. I'm very curious to see what others suggest to resolve the problem we were having....
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:57 PM   #1794
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Originally Posted by Stubbs View Post
I had the exact same experience racing on a super high bite track this past weekend. Box stock setup, including springs.....car was very loose when I would hit the brakes to enter a turn. Also, once it started to step out, there was very little that could be done to stop it.

I tried lowering rear ride height to 27, reduced droop to 116 / 131, took 1 deg of anti-squat out, and tried 7K center diff.....each change made one at a time. The reduced droop, and anti-squat seemed to have the best effect, but it was still doing it at the end of the day. The next thing that I was going to look at was going to a longer rear camber link.

Aside from the loose rear end off power, I was very happy with the car. I'm very curious to see what others suggest to resolve the problem we were having....
So weird I have the exact opposite problem on a dusty low traction track. The rear won't rotate enough and I end up pushing in power cause I can't get it to come around enough on initial turn in.
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:27 AM   #1795
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So weird I have the exact opposite problem on a dusty low traction track. The rear won't rotate enough and I end up pushing in power cause I can't get it to come around enough on initial turn in.
your answer is in your statement. Dusty low traction track. Your front end isn't digging in.

Pay attention to your car on the track when it's happening. Focus on what input you are giving the car. Are you hard on the brakes prior to the turn? Are you coasting into the turn? Are you on power entering the turn?

All of these things make a big difference.
You may need to adjust droop to get more weight transfer.
You may need to change diff oils to get more on-power or off-power steering.
You may need a different camber link to allow more or less roll.

Really focus on the chassis when watching the car and what you're doing prior to that turn, entering the turn, and through the turn.
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Old 06-14-2016, 09:29 AM   #1796
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
your answer is in your statement. Dusty low traction track. Your front end isn't digging in.

Pay attention to your car on the track when it's happening. Focus on what input you are giving the car. Are you hard on the brakes prior to the turn? Are you coasting into the turn? Are you on power entering the turn?

All of these things make a big difference.
You may need to adjust droop to get more weight transfer.
You may need to change diff oils to get more on-power or off-power steering.
You may need a different camber link to allow more or less roll.

Really focus on the chassis when watching the car and what you're doing prior to that turn, entering the turn, and through the turn.
Got ya. I usually coast into turns as that's when I get the most steering but it's still wider then I would like. If I slow down and have to get on the throttle mid turn it pushes terrible. I already backed off the droop screws , removed sway bars and went long camber link in front and high on the tower, rear most ackerman. It helped allot but it still pushes. Diffs are 575 I basically need every ounce of front traction I can get. I realize it's the slippery track but I'm getting there. Blockades and impact tires work best here
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:17 AM   #1797
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Originally Posted by Dragonfueled View Post
Got ya. I usually coast into turns as that's when I get the most steering but it's still wider then I would like. If I slow down and have to get on the throttle mid turn it pushes terrible. I already backed off the droop screws , removed sway bars and went long camber link in front and high on the tower, rear most ackerman. It helped allot but it still pushes. Diffs are 575 I basically need every ounce of front traction I can get. I realize it's the slippery track but I'm getting there. Blockades and impact tires work best here
I would increase the front diff oil and reduce the center and rear and go with shortest link up front. To me, the way your diffs are set up, you are going to get more rear wheel push on and off power. I maybe would try 774, 753. The short front link lets the car roll more up front so it will dig in/grip more in the turns. I've run ptrc 775, 774, 996 and 10/10/7 on our dusty blown out track an I actually like the higher diff oil. I seem to have more control.
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Old 06-14-2016, 11:22 AM   #1798
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I would increase the front diff oil and reduce the center and rear and go with shortest link up front. To me, the way your diffs are set up, you are going to get more rear wheel push on and off power. I maybe would try 774, 753. The short front link lets the car roll more up front so it will dig in/grip more in the turns. I've run ptrc 775, 774, 996 and 10/10/7 on our dusty blown out track an I actually like the higher diff oil. I seem to have more control.
Oh wow I always thought a long link let it roll more ,duh I'll try the short link first.
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Old 06-14-2016, 12:05 PM   #1799
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Got ya. I usually coast into turns as that's when I get the most steering but it's still wider then I would like. If I slow down and have to get on the throttle mid turn it pushes terrible. I already backed off the droop screws , removed sway bars and went long camber link in front and high on the tower, rear most ackerman. It helped allot but it still pushes. Diffs are 575 I basically need every ounce of front traction I can get. I realize it's the slippery track but I'm getting there. Blockades and impact tires work best here
print out this setup. http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...ern%20Nats.pdf

Go over your car and see how different you are compared to it. This setup works amazingly well for me and everyone of my friends who has tried it.

Also keep in mind that the team setups use PT Racing Oils, not AE or TLR. They are significantly thinner. close to 2k thinner on diff fluids. So 7-7-5 PT is closer to 5-5-3 AE.
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Old 06-14-2016, 03:52 PM   #1800
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My question on Joes set up is when coming from stock box is it good to make so many changes? Also if I make all those changes on link locations do I need different length links and turnbuckles or will the stock adjust to what is needed? Basically what all is needed to make the change? If I need to make an order it wont be here before my first race Saturday so what adjustments would you recommend till I can order?
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