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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-26-2016, 05:28 AM
  #1681  
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if buying a new kit, what options would be recommended?
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Old 05-26-2016, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by clinttredway
if buying a new kit, what options would be recommended?
Pink Front Springs
Red Rear Springs
Delrin Shock inserts
TiNi Shock Shafts
Arm mod
Raise the transmission (try it, if you don't like it remove it)
Joe Bornhorst Southern Nats setup

Remember all the team guys use PT Oils, which are considerably thinner. If you don't want to figure out the differences, add PT Oils to the list.
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Old 05-26-2016, 07:00 AM
  #1683  
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Thanks Appreciate the info
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Old 05-26-2016, 07:01 AM
  #1684  
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You're Welcome. I added that info to the first post along with the part numbers. If you have any other questions, let me know.
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Old 05-26-2016, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Raise the transmission (try it, if you don't like it remove it)
This is just the rear gearbox, correct? Not the front or center?
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Old 05-26-2016, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dog Runner
This is just the rear gearbox, correct? Not the front or center?
Correct.
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Old 05-26-2016, 02:35 PM
  #1687  
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Originally Posted by clinttredway
if buying a new kit, what options would be recommended?
I just placed my order. The tower price along with coupon makes this deal too hard to pass up. Was able to get it down to just under 430 for the kit
One item I got that Bob doesn't mention is the aluminum servo horn if you don't already have one. I also got some additional roll bars for tuning. Can't wait to receive mine and join the tekno army.
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Old 05-26-2016, 02:52 PM
  #1688  
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i'm slowly mounting my kit : i really appreciate the overall quality, nice work Tekno !
this thing is the most extrem 1/8 i ever built : all the chassis is so skinny and tight ! + the chassis is really thin as some point !
the gearbox are closed units, that's a nice idea

Last edited by werner sline; 05-26-2016 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 05-26-2016, 05:23 PM
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Default Droop it

Anyone like to touch on droop settings for this buggy, when and why changed and a correct way to measure.
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Old 05-26-2016, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rregl0612
Anyone like to touch on droop settings for this buggy, when and why changed and a correct way to measure.
Measure shock length from upper mounting screw to lower mounting screw.
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Old 05-26-2016, 09:17 PM
  #1691  
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i just mounted the front shocks to check how it is in place : i 'm a bit disapointed because i thought there would be a lot of negativ suspension travel : i mean when the chassis touches the ground, you can't really lift the Wheel anymore.
negativ suspension travel is usefull on very bumpy tracks or harsch landing ( my case )
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Old 05-27-2016, 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by wrightcs77
Measure shock length from upper mounting screw to lower mounting screw.
I do measure my shafts when building, (calipers not large enough for entire shock) I was always under the impression that you tune this with the screws on the arms.
Is the group letting the shock do the work, or are you limiting down travel with the screws? I leave them sometimes for bumpy stuff, but I am recently running more prepped tracks and the car doesn't settle as fast as a few others out there. I'm thinking limiting down might help on a smooth track?
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Old 05-27-2016, 05:15 AM
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What some do is take a ruler and measure from top to bottom with the shock installed on the car. Using the droop screws, you set the 'length' or droop and just make sure they are the same length.. and yes, limiting droop on a smooth track will help
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Old 05-27-2016, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by rregl0612
I do measure my shafts when building, (calipers not large enough for entire shock) I was always under the impression that you tune this with the screws on the arms.
Is the group letting the shock do the work, or are you limiting down travel with the screws? I leave them sometimes for bumpy stuff, but I am recently running more prepped tracks and the car doesn't settle as fast as a few others out there. I'm thinking limiting down might help on a smooth track?
The droop screws in the arms are what does the limiting, but most setup sheets still measure 10th scale style by the length of the shock eye to eye. My calipers also don't go this long, and that changes if you change shock position (while the actual droop doesn't). I measure my droop like a second ride height as the wheels are just about to leave the ground. It isn't really important how you measure, as long as you measure the same each time or use the same method as the setup sheet you're trying to match.

And you are correct, less droop will as an over generalization, generally allow the vehicle to react faster and work more consistently on a smooth track.
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Old 05-27-2016, 06:21 PM
  #1695  
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Is the eb48.3 better then the losi 4.0, rc8b3e, or mugen?
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