22LikesTekno RC EB48.3 Thread
03-13-2017, 12:03 AM - Wikipost
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05-17-2016, 01:02 AM
#1621
Lift the diff up off the chassis ? what's the point ? isn't the front driveline already perfectly in line ? the rear little dogbone is not lined with the diff so rising the diff would be worse
or did I miss something ?
or did I miss something ?
05-17-2016, 01:53 AM
#1622
Seems to be that people lift the diff up but lowers the camber link holes to accommodate.
I don't see much reason driveline/geometrically wise but what it does is lift the whole shock tower up thus moving the endpoints of the shocks further up (less droop and more compression available). Also limiting the droop through the shocks rather than the wishbone is a much better and stable solution.
Well that's what I understood.
I don't see much reason driveline/geometrically wise but what it does is lift the whole shock tower up thus moving the endpoints of the shocks further up (less droop and more compression available). Also limiting the droop through the shocks rather than the wishbone is a much better and stable solution.
Well that's what I understood.
05-17-2016, 03:27 AM
#1623
oh they lift up the REAR diff ! ok, it clearly helps the poor little dogbone ! but otherwise, I don't get it too
05-17-2016, 05:55 AM
#1624
Ok so the diff mod. What we are doing is raising the diff so that it creates more mechanical bind in the outdrive. This will lock the rear in, especially on power coming out of turns. When you do this mod, you have to lower all of your rear inner pivot points IF, and I say IF, you want to keep the exact same geometry. There is no MUST RUN setup for the inserts and camber links, but the team has tested it a ton and found the best starting point to be the 2 hole for the camber link on the tower, 1 dot down for the C Block and 2 dots down for the D Block.
Here's a link to the shims. https://www.3dgydesigns.com/collecti...-5mm-and-2-5mm
I'll be attending the Rumble in Rome race at CRC June 3,4,5 and can demonstrate the shims. I'll also talk to Mike about giving me a few in case you guys want to buy them.
Here's a link to the shims. https://www.3dgydesigns.com/collecti...-5mm-and-2-5mm
I'll be attending the Rumble in Rome race at CRC June 3,4,5 and can demonstrate the shims. I'll also talk to Mike about giving me a few in case you guys want to buy them.
05-17-2016, 06:40 AM
#1625
Ok so the diff mod. What we are doing is raising the diff so that it creates more mechanical bind in the outdrive. This will lock the rear in, especially on power coming out of turns. When you do this mod, you have to lower all of your rear inner pivot points IF, and I say IF, you want to keep the exact same geometry. There is no MUST RUN setup for the inserts and camber links, but the team has tested it a ton and found the best starting point to be the 2 hole for the camber link on the tower, 1 dot down for the C Block and 2 dots down for the D Block.
05-17-2016, 06:48 AM
#1626
Start with Joe's Southern Nats setup or Wicked Weekend setup and you'll be very close.
I have been running the Wicked Weekend setup but just switched to 4x1.8 pistons and liked it better. I have the 3x2.1 in my NB and it was awesome. I haven't put them in my EB yet, but I will try them eventually.
05-17-2016, 07:25 AM
#1627
Tech Master
I'm new to Tekno (just ordered the eb48.3!) and read through this entire thread but don't see details of this diff spacer mod. Did I miss it somewhere? Can someone point me in the right direction for where to find what this is and how to do it?
For batteries, I see that Joe's setups are typically with 6500 batteries while Ryan's are mostly 5000. That seems like a pretty big difference in weight between those two sizes that would affect the setup. Is there a recommended battery weight that works best in the eb48.3 or does this difference in weight not really affect the buggy that much?
For batteries, I see that Joe's setups are typically with 6500 batteries while Ryan's are mostly 5000. That seems like a pretty big difference in weight between those two sizes that would affect the setup. Is there a recommended battery weight that works best in the eb48.3 or does this difference in weight not really affect the buggy that much?
05-17-2016, 06:06 PM
#1628
Good discussion on the shims, could someone please explain the "mechanical bind" that is created and how it changes/helps the car? Thanks guys.
Scott
Scott
Last edited by rccars4scott; 05-17-2016 at 06:24 PM.
05-17-2016, 06:31 PM
#1629
that diff shiming seems serious !
so you rise the FRONT diff to "brake" the front wheels when on power. so the center diff might give more torque to the rear diff
that's some fine tuning !
so you rise the FRONT diff to "brake" the front wheels when on power. so the center diff might give more torque to the rear diff
that's some fine tuning !
05-17-2016, 06:33 PM
#1630
I would rise the REAR diff so that the rear dogbone gives all the power from the center diff without any loss
05-18-2016, 12:20 AM
#1634
05-18-2016, 03:41 AM
#1635
Thanks for the reply, I should have been more clear, what effect on handling does the added binding provide. Sorry for the questions, coming from an oval background and I am trying to learn off road set up.