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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-17-2016, 01:02 AM   #1621
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Lift the diff up off the chassis ? what's the point ? isn't the front driveline already perfectly in line ? the rear little dogbone is not lined with the diff so rising the diff would be worse
or did I miss something ?
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Old 05-17-2016, 01:53 AM   #1622
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Seems to be that people lift the diff up but lowers the camber link holes to accommodate.
I don't see much reason driveline/geometrically wise but what it does is lift the whole shock tower up thus moving the endpoints of the shocks further up (less droop and more compression available). Also limiting the droop through the shocks rather than the wishbone is a much better and stable solution.
Well that's what I understood.
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:27 AM   #1623
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oh they lift up the REAR diff ! ok, it clearly helps the poor little dogbone ! but otherwise, I don't get it too
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Old 05-17-2016, 05:55 AM   #1624
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Ok so the diff mod. What we are doing is raising the diff so that it creates more mechanical bind in the outdrive. This will lock the rear in, especially on power coming out of turns. When you do this mod, you have to lower all of your rear inner pivot points IF, and I say IF, you want to keep the exact same geometry. There is no MUST RUN setup for the inserts and camber links, but the team has tested it a ton and found the best starting point to be the 2 hole for the camber link on the tower, 1 dot down for the C Block and 2 dots down for the D Block.

Here's a link to the shims. https://www.3dgydesigns.com/collecti...-5mm-and-2-5mm

I'll be attending the Rumble in Rome race at CRC June 3,4,5 and can demonstrate the shims. I'll also talk to Mike about giving me a few in case you guys want to buy them.
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Old 05-17-2016, 06:40 AM   #1625
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
Ok so the diff mod. What we are doing is raising the diff so that it creates more mechanical bind in the outdrive. This will lock the rear in, especially on power coming out of turns. When you do this mod, you have to lower all of your rear inner pivot points IF, and I say IF, you want to keep the exact same geometry. There is no MUST RUN setup for the inserts and camber links, but the team has tested it a ton and found the best starting point to be the 2 hole for the camber link on the tower, 1 dot down for the C Block and 2 dots down for the D Block.
So, any setup sheet posted on TeknoRC.com is without the shims? I assume it'd be in the notes section if it was being used. I just got a 48.3 and am trying to come out of the gate with a decent setup. Thanks Bob.
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Old 05-17-2016, 06:48 AM   #1626
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
So, any setup sheet posted on TeknoRC.com is without the shims? I assume it'd be in the notes section if it was being used. I just got a 48.3 and am trying to come out of the gate with a decent setup. Thanks Bob.
Correct. To my knowledge, NO setups on the site include the shims or arm mods unless specified in the notes.

Start with Joe's Southern Nats setup or Wicked Weekend setup and you'll be very close.

I have been running the Wicked Weekend setup but just switched to 4x1.8 pistons and liked it better. I have the 3x2.1 in my NB and it was awesome. I haven't put them in my EB yet, but I will try them eventually.
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Old 05-17-2016, 07:25 AM   #1627
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Originally Posted by Dog Runner View Post
I'm new to Tekno (just ordered the eb48.3!) and read through this entire thread but don't see details of this diff spacer mod. Did I miss it somewhere? Can someone point me in the right direction for where to find what this is and how to do it?

For batteries, I see that Joe's setups are typically with 6500 batteries while Ryan's are mostly 5000. That seems like a pretty big difference in weight between those two sizes that would affect the setup. Is there a recommended battery weight that works best in the eb48.3 or does this difference in weight not really affect the buggy that much?
I run SMC 5200's in my EB48.3...and SMC 6700's in my ET48...The 5200 balances the car more..from what I've read...as far as noticeable difference in handling, that I cannot tell you. For a while I ran the 3600mah 2s sized 4s...I decided to just match the the batteries so that there was no difference. Never really made a mental note as to which battery was in it when I was running it with the different weights.
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Old 05-17-2016, 06:06 PM   #1628
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Good discussion on the shims, could someone please explain the "mechanical bind" that is created and how it changes/helps the car? Thanks guys.

Scott

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Old 05-17-2016, 06:31 PM   #1629
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that diff shiming seems serious !

so you rise the FRONT diff to "brake" the front wheels when on power. so the center diff might give more torque to the rear diff
that's some fine tuning !
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Old 05-17-2016, 06:33 PM   #1630
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I would rise the REAR diff so that the rear dogbone gives all the power from the center diff without any loss
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Old 05-17-2016, 07:53 PM   #1631
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I love the 6 x1.5 37 rear 32 front oils
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Old 05-17-2016, 07:53 PM   #1632
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:36 PM   #1633
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The diff shimming is to create bind in the rear driveshafts, the ones that go into the hubs, not the center driveshafts.
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Old 05-18-2016, 12:20 AM   #1634
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
The diff shimming is to create bind in the rear driveshafts, the ones that go into the hubs, not the center driveshafts.
Any chance there will be a an updated rear diff from Tekno to accomplish this?
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:41 AM   #1635
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Quote:
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The diff shimming is to create bind in the rear driveshafts, the ones that go into the hubs, not the center driveshafts.
Thanks for the reply, I should have been more clear, what effect on handling does the added binding provide. Sorry for the questions, coming from an oval background and I am trying to learn off road set up.
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