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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-12-2016, 06:46 AM   #1591
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
19t? Hmm...I ran 19t last year, and dropped to 18t this year....Debated trying 19t last race weekend. The track didn't warrant it though.
Yeah I think that's what's on it. I slapped it on at Rama and never looked at it again LOL.

I basically just put whatever was on Joe's setupsheet at the time for gearing. Temps weren't a factor. If they become a factor, I'll go down a tooth.
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:02 AM   #1592
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The CCMM2/2200kv combo was a steal ($150new) not to mention I've run them in the past with great results. This isn't high dollar AMains, but for bragging rights and beers. But thanks anyway. I have 2200kv can so thats what she'll get. Most of the guys are running RTR's and I'm not a fan.


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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Ditch the CCMM2 / 2200v combo and drop in a Tekin RX8 or hobby wing XR8 ESC with a sensored Tekin or SMC 1900Kv motor (the latter are both more affordable). 16, 17 & 18 tooth pinions should cover all your gearing needs and you'll have plenty zip.
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Old 05-12-2016, 08:08 AM   #1593
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19t? Hmm...I ran 19t last year, and dropped to 18t this year....Debated trying 19t last race weekend. The track didn't warrant it though.
I ran 18T with a Tekin 1900KV at PNB last month. It was good, but I could tell it was topping out pretty quick, even on the shorter straights.

If I'm going to be running on a really small track, I'll drop it down to 17 or 18, but I plan to keep the 19T in for majority of the time.
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Old 05-13-2016, 12:45 PM   #1594
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Has any one tried using the LRP iX8 in the EB48.3 and how does it fit?
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Old 05-13-2016, 01:03 PM   #1595
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Has any one tried using the LRP iX8 in the EB48.3 and how does it fit?
If I can fit my Novak Activ8 V2 in there, I think anything will fit
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Old 05-13-2016, 02:20 PM   #1596
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The top level guys are the ones that came up with the diff spacer I believe.
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Perhaps, but after speaking with the guys at Tekno that designed the buggy, they strongly advised AGAINST running the spacer. Too many negative risks, vs. the small gain that it might give.

I was going to try it, but decided not to after that conversation....

IMO worth doing.. best single tune I've made to this vehicle. Tested it last night.
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Old 05-13-2016, 02:57 PM   #1597
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IMO worth doing.. best single tune I've made to this vehicle. Tested it last night.
Did you do the 1.5mm or 2mm?
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Old 05-13-2016, 03:54 PM   #1598
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Did you do the 1.5mm or 2mm?
1.5mm; used the 3d printed jN2
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Old 05-13-2016, 04:55 PM   #1599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
IMO worth doing.. best single tune I've made to this vehicle. Tested it last night.
Did you lower the links and the pills as well or just put the shim in?
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Old 05-13-2016, 10:41 PM   #1600
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Did you lower the links and the pills as well or just put the shim in?
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Old 05-14-2016, 12:13 AM   #1601
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I'm having a problem that seems to be happening on all three of my Teknos. The front or rear diff pinion drive cups set screws keep back out and the pinion gear is free to move back and forth in the diff case. I use red loctite but they still keep getting loose. Any thoughts on what is causing this?
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Old 05-14-2016, 12:22 AM   #1602
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I'm having a problem that seems to be happening on all three of my Teknos. The front or rear diff pinion drive cups set screws keep back out and the pinion gear is free to move back and forth in the diff case. I use red loctite but they still keep getting loose. Any thoughts on what is causing this?
First thing I'd try is to clean off any grease from the thread surfaces with brake cleaner. Then reassemble and make sure the Loctite cures ( blue Loctite should even work) before you grease the gears. If that doesn't work you may have stripped some threads but it's unlikely.
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Old 05-14-2016, 12:26 AM   #1603
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First thing I'd try is to clean off any grease from the thread surfaces with brake cleaner. Then reassemble and make sure the Loctite cures ( blue Loctite should even work) before you grease the gears. If that doesn't work you may have stripped some threads but it's unlikely.
Okay, good call. I have not been cleaning the old threadlock off. Is it completely necessary to take everything apart to hold the diff pinion gear in while tightening the drive cup to make sure there is no slop? Or is it okay to have a tiny bit of slop?
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:36 AM   #1604
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Hey guys. You think it's worth converting my SCT410 to the EB48SL? I know they stopped making the conversion kit. Never ran my SCT410 after I bought/built it, so it's been sitting + collecting dust. Most of my interest has been in 1/10 buddy & ST so I this was put on the back burner lol.
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Old 05-14-2016, 01:06 PM   #1605
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Absolutely. Mine had pace to win the last national, unfortunately I was quite unlucky so it didnt happen. But the potential is huge in the SL. Go for it! ☺
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