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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 04-13-2016, 08:15 AM   #1486
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Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
Ok, about the shocks. I just talked to Amain about the problem I am having with the TiNi shaft on the front. I bought TKR6017T for the front and TKR6061T for the rear. Amain is saying I need part number TKR6004T for the front and TKR6017T for the rear. But I think that would be the parts you use on the 48.2. I ordered the front and rear per the manual option callout. Am I wrong or what? TKR6017T says rear shaft and TKR6061T says X-Long rear shaft. But I am pretty sure that is what I need. Anyone have a contact at Tekno I can ask to be 100% sure?
You are correct. The 48.3 does use the longer shafts, not the shorter shafts like the 48.2 and 48SL do. That would also have nothing to do with an initial bind while the shock is fully extended.

Does the same issue happen when you use the stock shafts? That'll tell you quickly if it is shaft or something else.
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Old 04-13-2016, 08:35 AM   #1487
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You are correct. The 48.3 does use the longer shafts, not the shorter shafts like the 48.2 and 48SL do. That would also have nothing to do with an initial bind while the shock is fully extended.

Does the same issue happen when you use the stock shafts? That'll tell you quickly if it is shaft or something else.
Thank you for confirming the part number. Yea, I just thought about doing that with the stock shaft. This was last night at like 1:30am and I was pretty tired and frustrated by that point.
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Old 04-13-2016, 10:54 AM   #1488
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I was wondering if my servo (2yrs old) is still good enough for the EB48.3 at race level.
I currently have a Hitec 7954sh set with 7.2v (through the xr8+ HW).
It produces a torque of about 400oz.inch and a speed of 0.12s.
Should I keep it until it dies or would I benefit from upgrading ?
I was looking at servos around 0.09s for a 250-300oz.inch thinking of the savox 1267sg
Or even should I go banana and get the 2284sg at 0.65s for the same torque ? I like the aluminium case as the Hitec's is getting pretty beaten up where you screw it to the chassis... (direct mount though as I lost the rubber pads a long time ago).

thanks
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Old 04-13-2016, 11:03 AM   #1489
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Originally Posted by shannow View Post
I was wondering if my servo (2yrs old) is still good enough for the EB48.3 at race level.
I currently have a Hitec 7954sh set with 7.2v (through the xr8+ HW).
It produces a torque of about 400oz.inch and a speed of 0.12s.
Should I keep it until it dies or would I benefit from upgrading ?
I was looking at servos around 0.09s for a 250-300oz.inch thinking of the savox 1267sg
Or even should I go banana and get the 2284sg at 0.65s for the same torque ? I like the aluminium case as the Hitec's is getting pretty beaten up where you screw it to the chassis... (direct mount though as I lost the rubber pads a long time ago).

thanks
Specs are good enough at 7.4v...I'd run it

Wouldn't hurt to get a spare as a backup. But at 2 years old, if it isn't giving you problems. Or upgrade to one with better specs, and keep the hitec as your backup....I'm kinda a backup nazi...I hate not having spares.
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Old 04-14-2016, 06:42 AM   #1490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shannow View Post
I was wondering if my servo (2yrs old) is still good enough for the EB48.3 at race level.
I currently have a Hitec 7954sh set with 7.2v (through the xr8+ HW).
It produces a torque of about 400oz.inch and a speed of 0.12s.
Should I keep it until it dies or would I benefit from upgrading ?
I was looking at servos around 0.09s for a 250-300oz.inch thinking of the savox 1267sg
Or even should I go banana and get the 2284sg at 0.65s for the same torque ? I like the aluminium case as the Hitec's is getting pretty beaten up where you screw it to the chassis... (direct mount though as I lost the rubber pads a long time ago).

thanks
Those specs look good. Most are using the inner hole on the new servo arms, but in your case you could keep using the outer hole if you want more speed.

Personally, I can't run a servo for 2 years in EBuggy. I run a good bit every week and I'm doing good to get a year out of any servo. Usually it's just the gears that get wore out and slop develops.

I would stay away from Savox servos. The motors tend to die in them. I've just started running the Protek servos and so far I'm really impressed with the bang for your buck.
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Old 04-14-2016, 09:54 AM   #1491
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Thank you for confirming the part number. Yea, I just thought about doing that with the stock shaft. This was last night at like 1:30am and I was pretty tired and frustrated by that point.
Just wanted to make another post about what my issue was with the shocks on my new kit. At first I thought it was the TiNi shaft that I bought that was giving me a notchy rough feel when compressing the shocks. So I went home last night and removed the piston from the shaft and worked the shock up and down... Perfectly smooth. Got the same result with the stock shaft. Then I put the piston on the stock shaft and got the notchy feel again. I grabbed a Q-tip and pulled the cotton off one end and ran the stick down inside the body of the shock and the bottom 1/2" of the inside of the body I could feel these grooves. So I held it up to the light and you can see there were these circular grooves inside the body at the bottom. There weren't jagged or anything but they were very shallow. That is what was causing my problem. Anyone else ever experienced this?

I also wanted to commend Tekno RC on their customer service. I emailed them about the issue and they got right back to me and sent out 2 new shock bodies (so the colors would match) along with a new bottle of shock fluid and a return label to send in the faulty shock so they could inspect it. Excellent customer service Tekno!! Keep up the good work.
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:03 AM   #1492
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... Excellent customer service Tekno!! Keep up the good work.
Second to none.
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Old 04-14-2016, 01:24 PM   #1493
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Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
Just wanted to make another post about what my issue was with the shocks on my new kit. At first I thought it was the TiNi shaft that I bought that was giving me a notchy rough feel when compressing the shocks. So I went home last night and removed the piston from the shaft and worked the shock up and down... Perfectly smooth. Got the same result with the stock shaft. Then I put the piston on the stock shaft and got the notchy feel again. I grabbed a Q-tip and pulled the cotton off one end and ran the stick down inside the body of the shock and the bottom 1/2" of the inside of the body I could feel these grooves. So I held it up to the light and you can see there were these circular grooves inside the body at the bottom. There weren't jagged or anything but they were very shallow. That is what was causing my problem. Anyone else ever experienced this?
Yeah, me. I massaged the grooves away with a dremel on slow settings and a polishing end that fitted right in. That helped. I could probably have done the same as you and get it replaced due to slightly faulty manufacturing, but I couldnt be arsed really, it was a fairly easy fix
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Old 04-14-2016, 01:53 PM   #1494
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Originally Posted by shannow View Post
I was wondering if my servo (2yrs old) is still good enough for the EB48.3 at race level.
I currently have a Hitec 7954sh set with 7.2v (through the xr8+ HW).
It produces a torque of about 400oz.inch and a speed of 0.12s.
Should I keep it until it dies or would I benefit from upgrading ?
I was looking at servos around 0.09s for a 250-300oz.inch thinking of the savox 1267sg
Or even should I go banana and get the 2284sg at 0.65s for the same torque ? I like the aluminium case as the Hitec's is getting pretty beaten up where you screw it to the chassis... (direct mount though as I lost the rubber pads a long time ago).

thanks
I run the Savox 1268 in every car I own, 10th and 8th. It's more than enough power and the speed is just right for me. Anything more and I feel my car is too twitchy. They are 200/6.0v 347/7.4v for torque. If you want the latest and greatest, Savox 2274 I believe is the updated version of this servo (also what Ty Tessman runs)
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Old 04-14-2016, 04:37 PM   #1495
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Thanks for the replies . I'll keep the Hitec then for a while. Actually the Hitec is the remnants of two 7954sh where on one the case busted and gears were worn and the other was going berserk around neutral and had Parkinson elsewhere. I used the working components of both to give me a very good one.
It's good news anyway because I may have a change of plans moneywise and I'm going to go probably for the nb48.3 as well (not enough races in 1/8 ebuggies where I live and can't take the frustration).
I was wondering if the HD power are good servos ?
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Old 04-14-2016, 06:43 PM   #1496
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Originally Posted by shannow View Post
Thanks for the replies . I'll keep the Hitec then for a while. Actually the Hitec is the remnants of two 7954sh where on one the case busted and gears were worn and the other was going berserk around neutral and had Parkinson elsewhere. I used the working components of both to give me a very good one.
It's good news anyway because I may have a change of plans moneywise and I'm going to go probably for the nb48.3 as well (not enough races in 1/8 ebuggies where I live and can't take the frustration).
I was wondering if the HD power are good servos ?
I've ran a few of the HD power servos. Hit and miss on quality. I've had some real good ones. Some I'm still running. And a few that burnt up or broke pretty quick.
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:02 PM   #1497
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I need some setup help for my 48.3. Our track has a long high speed strait then a 180 turn. My buggy pushes hard when i try to take the corner. I have 4 steering limiter washers. I run associated diff oils 7-7-5. My setup is pretty close to bornhorst wicked weekend. I can usually get my sct 410.3 rear to break free and drift the corner a little but can't seem to break the buggy rear end free. Track is hard packed, somewhat dusty and watered but drys out quickly. Any suggestions?
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Old 04-16-2016, 08:24 AM   #1498
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Originally Posted by Ruffdog1 View Post
I need some setup help for my 48.3. Our track has a long high speed strait then a 180 turn. My buggy pushes hard when i try to take the corner. I have 4 steering limiter washers. I run associated diff oils 7-7-5. My setup is pretty close to bornhorst wicked weekend. I can usually get my sct 410.3 rear to break free and drift the corner a little but can't seem to break the buggy rear end free. Track is hard packed, somewhat dusty and watered but drys out quickly. Any suggestions?
what are your ride heights?
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:01 AM   #1499
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what are your ride heights?
27 front and rear
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Old 04-16-2016, 08:59 PM   #1500
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Originally Posted by Ruffdog1 View Post
I need some setup help for my 48.3. Our track has a long high speed strait then a 180 turn. My buggy pushes hard when i try to take the corner. I have 4 steering limiter washers. I run associated diff oils 7-7-5. My setup is pretty close to bornhorst wicked weekend. I can usually get my sct 410.3 rear to break free and drift the corner a little but can't seem to break the buggy rear end free. Track is hard packed, somewhat dusty and watered but drys out quickly. Any suggestions?
5-5-3 assoc is probably more like Joe's 7-7-5 ptrc oil.
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