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Old 08-15-2015, 06:12 PM
  #586  
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Are the springs available individually? Would like to try them on myT5m
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Old 08-15-2015, 06:20 PM
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I know I bitching about 1 screw, but in addition to that the bags were not marked right whatsoever. It was not hard to figure out what was what, but I hope this thing dazzles me when I get to drive it next weekend, because I can honestly say that the only thing I like about it over my 22 sct 2.0 is the body mounts.
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Old 08-15-2015, 06:38 PM
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Which way do the trailing axle inserts go for standard. The instructions have the 4 right side up with arrow pointing left,. Where it seems it would have to be upside down if I put it in for standard. stupid question I know but I just cant seem to grasp it.
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Old 08-15-2015, 06:41 PM
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Should be the 4 facing forward
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Old 08-15-2015, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by maddysdaddy
I noticed in pics that Cav and Rivkin both run the green rear springs. Hmmmmm
The green rear springs were already on my list of tuning parts. After running it at a loamy outdoor track I feel that is all I will really need to get it where I want it for now. It was box stock and had the kit setup except for 30 rear oil and in line shorty battery setup to start. went to forward on rear hubs, .5 rear toe at hubs and inside on rear shock tower to get it planted better.
It jumped so much better and consistently than my sc10 ever did. 1 softer rear springs will allow me to take out most of those changes.
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:32 AM
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I will be running my kit later in the week but I just wanted to say my sc5m was complete with all parts and went together easy. Go mid motor

Last edited by yz167; 08-16-2015 at 12:44 AM.
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Old 08-16-2015, 11:14 AM
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Was everyone's shock bushings/standoffs in their bag with the shock parts? I'm missing those parts as well
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Old 08-16-2015, 03:23 PM
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I will start with the build, everything went together great, no parts missing and after owning a B5 I can say this was one of the easiest and best builds I have had and they fixed the tight ball cups. The assembly was so easy, you open a bag and you finish a bag before opening the next, coming from a SC-6 this was nice.

At the track,
I raced on a low grip clay indoor track mostly dominated by rear motor sct's today. I TQ'd by 13 seconds over P2 and consistently had the fastest laps in every round all day long. In the main the driver did not do his job and I ended up third but again ran the fastest laps by .3 of a lap. The truck is box stock with a few minor tweaks to the stock set up and I ran a saddle pack due to my shorty not getting here on time. The truck was very well balanced and easier to drive than my SC-6 was, plus bettered my fastest lap by .1, so overall extremely happy with the truck. If it gets better with the shorty I will be surprised due to how well it drove today.
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Old 08-16-2015, 03:33 PM
  #594  
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Originally Posted by mxturd
I know I bitching about 1 screw, but in addition to that the bags were not marked right whatsoever. It was not hard to figure out what was what, but I hope this thing dazzles me when I get to drive it next weekend, because I can honestly say that the only thing I like about it over my 22 sct 2.0 is the body mounts.
Not to be rude here, but have you built a car before? I don't even look at bag markings to be honest. You got the chassis bag, shock bag, front end, rear end.
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Old 08-16-2015, 04:13 PM
  #595  
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Originally Posted by mxturd
Was everyone's shock bushings/standoffs in their bag with the shock parts? I'm missing those parts as well
The standoffs and screws are in a separate bag all by themselves.

I think you are just looking for things to be wrong with this build.



I can not imagine some of you guys building an old school RC10 kit back in the 80s. Do any of you even know what a Z-bender is? Everything had to be hand finished, that was part of building a kit. I still do a lot of hand fitting to make sure the kit is up to my standards and it still only took me 3 hours to build.
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Old 08-16-2015, 06:01 PM
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Yeah I've built a few, starting with a jrx-t (back in the 80's), and this year I've built 2 teknos, and my 22sct 2.0, so yeah I had some expectations that if the manual said a certain bag the part would be there. Sorry for the bitching and hope this is a great kit when I get to run it. Got my parts ordered from amain that werent in the kit, so I guess all is good, and to be honest it really would not be that bad if I didn't have to drive over 50 miles to the nearest hobby shop,,so I guess that missing a 2.5 x 8mm screw is not that big of a deal, it's the process to get it. I do not have a seperate bag for shock stand offs,,I just figured it would be in with the other shock stuff.
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:25 PM
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Quick question, when using the rear aluminum rear hubs, what length ball studs are folks using? Also what height and which position are folks mounting the ball stud on?
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Old 08-16-2015, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Riverbluff
Quick question, when using the rear aluminum rear hubs, what length ball studs are folks using? Also what height and which position are folks mounting the ball stud on?
I think I'm using 6mm ballstud with the aluminum hubs. I run the rear link as long as it will go with 1 mm under the ball on the hub and the mount flipped -2 with 1mm under the inside ball....which is in the inside hole. I ran my truck for the very first time today and it was really awesome. I did really well without any practice. I was really pleased. The traction was super high and I ran a square pack. No nose diving although I modified the truck quite a bit when I built it. I upeed the shock oil to 35 all around and the front was definitely too soft.
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Old 08-16-2015, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE
I think I'm using 6mm ballstud with the aluminum hubs. I run the rear link as long as it will go with 1 mm under the ball on the hub and the mount flipped -2 with 1mm under the inside ball....which is in the inside hole. I ran my truck for the very first time today and it was really awesome. I did really well without any practice. I was really pleased. The traction was super high and I ran a square pack. No nose diving although I modified the truck quite a bit when I built it. I upeed the shock oil to 35 all around and the front was definitely too soft.
Thanks, how was the rear with the 35? I haven't ran mine yet, bit I built it with 32.5 in the rear and 37.5 in the front. What did you start with for rear toe and anti-squat? I built mine with the aluminum c & d links. I run on a medium grip outdoor track and have decides to start with 3.5 toe and 2 anti squat
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Old 08-16-2015, 09:20 PM
  #600  
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Originally Posted by mxturd
Yeah I've built a few, starting with a jrx-t (back in the 80's), and this year I've built 2 teknos, and my 22sct 2.0, so yeah I had some expectations that if the manual said a certain bag the part would be there. Sorry for the bitching and hope this is a great kit when I get to run it. Got my parts ordered from amain that werent in the kit, so I guess all is good, and to be honest it really would not be that bad if I didn't have to drive over 50 miles to the nearest hobby shop,,so I guess that missing a 2.5 x 8mm screw is not that big of a deal, it's the process to get it. I do not have a seperate bag for shock stand offs,,I just figured it would be in with the other shock stuff.
50 miles is kind of far, and I can honestly say I probably dont have a spare 2.5x8mm screw in my pit box even though I own 3 Associated 5 chassis cars. The bag had the lower shocks screws in it, the stand offs and the lock nuts for the upper shock mounts. IIRC it was in the big shock bag, but no other parts in it.
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