cwalsh

iTrader: (2)

I am sure it has been covered on here but can someone post a Jconcepts part number of the correct wheel for this truck? I unexpectedly have one of these trucks coming my way today or tomorrow. Also do people plan on running the stock body or switching to a flow type body? My track is low grip so I will start with the stock body.

celt

iTrader: (5)

I would guess it's under weight out of the box?

2098grams

Curious to see some stock, out of the box weights

kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

Kit Proline body works well with all the cutouts. They also make a nice F-11 wheel that's avail in reg or +3 offset to match...America .

http://prolineracing.com/short-cours...t-truck-wheels

NeedsHobbyMoney

iTrader: (6)

Anyone Plan on using the EVO SC body?

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

ROAR is enforcing that rule. SRS has nothing to do with it. It is a ROAR rule and it is AE's fault that the truck is not legal for the 17.5 class. It's not like this just appeared somewhere....its been in the book for years.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

This seems like the slowest it has ever taken AE to put up a manual online. I was just curious and wanted to preview the build and check a few things out...but no online manual

Newbie Rc Guy

iTrader: (2)

Do any of you guys that got the kits have the part numbers for the new springs?

mes

+3mm Hazards are #3344W/B/Y, 0mm offset are #3352W/B/Y. If you want to bring the truck to maximum ROAR width, take the +3mm wheels, if you prefer a narrower car, take the 0mm offset wheels. If you are running on really low grip, you may want to try wide wheels in the front and narrow ones in the rear.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Ok, SC Gurus. The truck will be here tomorrow. I plan to paint the body this week. Nothing fancy, but I would still like the paint to last longer than 2-3 weekends. The last time I had an SC, the wheels rubbed the wheel wells on compression. And quickly rubbed away the paint. I am looking to try and keep the paint looking decent as long as possible. A buddy of mine uses plastic dip spray on the inside and that does seem to keep the bodies from cracking as much. But is also heavier. And I am not sure I want the tires compressing and binding up on a rubber under coat. The simplest thing, is to put stickers over the rub spots, so you cant see them , lol.

Also, any tricks to make the body last longer without using 10lbs of drywall tape and shoe goo? I was thinking about not cutting out vents as a way to make the body more durable. And cut away the rear sections above the bumper to lower the chance of the bumper cracking the body.

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

I always took a dremel to the cutouts to make sure to remove any sharp edges. Rounded corners are less likely to split. Also once its mounted try and flex the bumpers/body and see if anything rubs/hits and remove material from the body until it doesn't.

Dstreelm

iTrader: (6)

Back when i had my first SC (Losi 22 SCT) i tried the whole drywall tape and shoegoo thing but the thing just felt so heavy and slow.

I have had good luck repairing/reinforcing bodies with simple black gorilla tape, Gorilla glue's version of duct tape. I use it on the underside of my T5m body under the mounting holes. The adhesive is super strong and the top surface is slippery...I plan on using that on the wheel arches

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Yeah, I use a dremel on my wings the same way. In the past for SC, I used a body reamer on the corners of the cutouts and then played connect the dots with the sissors.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

ok, I tried duct tape in the past, but not gorilla tape.

This the stuff?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Gorilla-Ta...0-yds/23760411

Dstreelm

iTrader: (6)

Yup thats it, Ive used that stuff and the narrower tape which is easier to fit around certain curves

celt

iTrader: (5)

It's just the nature of running ShortCourse...they eat bodies, I've not seen a reasonable way around it.