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Old 11-10-2015, 02:22 AM   #1051
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What is the heaviest front shock oil anyone is using? My truck jumps great but noses dives in high speed corners. I have 37.5 w/asc white springs now. I'm going to go extreme and try 80wt tmrw. Anyone else try it?
I will go ahead and say 80 wt is going to be really bad. White springs are too soft for the front of an SCT IMO. go to a Grey front spring and check your ride height! Make sure the front is not lower then the rear. Also remember raising the front ride height higher then the rear will also help with it diving to hard into corners
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:25 AM   #1052
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Also for all you guys with NOSE DIVING issues. Put hard front arms on ASAP! (and 37.5-40 Wt. oil in the front)
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:38 AM   #1053
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My track is a high bite clay track. It has 37.5 and white in it now. I've rebuilt them again with the 37.5 and will test it tmrw with greys. I'm using the kyosho x-gear grey in the rear and other than is lifting the inside wheel in sharp high speed it does great. I'm very happy with it. I have the 3 gear and MIP pucks system also. On a side note how many people use the square pack? I have one and haven't used it but twice in my buggy and I think I'm going to try it
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Old 11-10-2015, 04:43 AM   #1054
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I would bet some people are having nose diving issues because of too low of a ride height in the rear. You are probably hitting the rear as you leave the jump and this makes the rear bounce up. This makes the truck nosedive.
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Old 11-10-2015, 05:13 AM   #1055
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Mid motors like to be driven with throttle. There is a lot of steering available and if you let off too much the front can overwhelm the rear. Try not to fix steering issues with shocks as much as possible. Find a balanced shock package and work with your roll center adjustments to get it to turn like you want. I like the idea of a hard front arm. That makes sense. My thought is that this truck is begging for a front sway bar. If you are lifting the inside rear tire in tight corners that would confirm it.
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Old 11-10-2015, 05:20 AM   #1056
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My track is a high bite clay track. It has 37.5 and white in it now. I've rebuilt them again with the 37.5 and will test it tmrw with greys. I'm using the kyosho x-gear grey in the rear and other than is lifting the inside wheel in sharp high speed it does great. I'm very happy with it. I have the 3 gear and MIP pucks system also. On a side note how many people use the square pack? I have one and haven't used it but twice in my buggy and I think I'm going to try it
Are you sure about the rear spring being a grey? I'm hoping you mean gold. Kyosho doesn't have a grey. They have pink,white, gold, red, yellow & orange. I don't want anybody to spend their day looking for something that they can't get...been there. no bueno.
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Old 11-10-2015, 05:33 AM   #1057
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Mid motors like to be driven with throttle. There is a lot of steering available and if you let off too much the front can overwhelm the rear. Try not to fix steering issues with shocks as much as possible. Find a balanced shock package and work with your roll center adjustments to get it to turn like you want. I like the idea of a hard front arm. That makes sense. My thought is that this truck is begging for a front sway bar. If you are lifting the inside rear tire in tight corners that would confirm it.
I'd rather find a better shock package that keeps the rear planted (stiffer front oil, grey front spring), then put a sway bar on on the front of a short course. I had to do that with my 22SCT 2.0 and found it to be very clunky and barely helped. It could be that his rear is too stiff with the kyosho gold spring instead of the Associated White truck spring, freeing up that rear end would keep the wheels on the ground.
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Old 11-10-2015, 05:36 AM   #1058
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I would bet some people are having nose diving issues because of too low of a ride height in the rear. You are probably hitting the rear as you leave the jump and this makes the rear bounce up. This makes the truck nosedive.
I had that problem, changed shock positions to stiffen up the rear and didnt change the ride height back to the 28mm (was about at 25-26) I usually run in the rear, could hear it slapping the face of the jumps and nosing over, set it back to 30mm front 28mm rear, and it flys great now, just need to cut out the damn vents in my body without destroying it lol...
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Old 11-10-2015, 08:07 AM   #1059
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A good shock package is balanced in wheel rate from front to rear. It really should be the first thing done with a new kit. Once that balance is found, how the weight is transferred from side to side is controlled with roll center adjustments (camber link positions/lengths and possibly sway bars).
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Old 11-10-2015, 08:53 AM   #1060
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Got a quick question. I know it's been posted before but I need the part# for the clamping hex axles. I ordered the ASC71013 axles and they are too long.
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:43 PM   #1061
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Got a quick question. I know it's been posted before but I need the part# for the clamping hex axles. I ordered the ASC71013 axles and they are too long.
I am using that axle on both the SC5m and T5m. They are a little longer on the SC5m (6mm hex instead of 8.5mm), but they still fit for me.
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:30 PM   #1062
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Will zero offset wheel work on this truck
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Old 11-10-2015, 03:53 PM   #1063
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Will zero offset wheel work on this truck
You can run zero offset, but I feel the truck is more stable with the +3 offset.
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Old 11-10-2015, 04:36 PM   #1064
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I am using that axle on both the SC5m and T5m. They are a little longer on the SC5m (6mm hex instead of 8.5mm), but they still fit for me.
Sorry I meant the front axles
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Old 11-10-2015, 05:25 PM   #1065
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Sorry I meant the front axles
According to AE, same # as T5m #71013
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...xles_clamping/
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