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Old 08-06-2015, 06:32 AM   #421
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Just got mine a couple of days ago......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsVgSfagTLc
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:09 AM   #422
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Anyone notice the thrust T-nut is different? Clear and kinda snug?
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:47 AM   #423
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Originally Posted by richmtb01 View Post
Just got mine a couple of days ago......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsVgSfagTLc
Already subscribed rich.. Like the videos, specially your build vids..
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Old 08-06-2015, 08:02 AM   #424
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Just got mine a couple of days ago......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsVgSfagTLc
I got mine yesterday and my unboxing was exactly like the one on the video ; )
Can't wait to start build, it is anything like the B5 it is going to be hellafun! I plan on building it completely stock, then upgrade parts as they break. on my B5 I only had to replaced bell crank with alloy J concepts.
I will be running the LRP 17.5/esc, spectrum 6040, dirt webs and barcodes. I hope to have it track ready by next Thursday for shakedown at OCRC, then first race soon after; )
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:50 AM   #425
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Already subscribed rich.. Like the videos, specially your build vids..
Thanks, much appreciated!
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:57 AM   #426
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Just received my SC5M haven't built it yet just waiting on the electronics to come today from SMC. Looked the manual and decided to give AE a call about a issue with my T5M, ball cups to tight. So after my quick talk with customer service explaining my issue and them acknowledging there is a problem he suggested to just buy new ones. So let me get this straight I buy a 279 dollar kit and a part doesn't work correctly and I have to buy more in hopes that it fixes the problem. Not really impressed, I hope there isn't the same issue with SC5M. Haven't had a issue with the B5M so hope my issue was an isolated issue; however, I think how they treated me during the call really sucks. If I owned a company and sell a customer a product that isn't to par you bet your ass I would make things right. That was the first and last time I will be calling AE for anything. Before anybody comments on how to fix them I have tried everything on all the forums on how to fix the problem nothing seems to loosen them. I'm not going to buy a special tool and try to fix a piece like a ball cup like customer service suggested before buying new ones. I'll just bight the bullet and buy new ones I guess. Sorry if I seem bitter but almost a grand in three kits and can't get the service that should accompany them for a 3 dollar fix.
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:03 AM   #427
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Just received my SC5M haven't built it yet just waiting on the electronics to come today from SMC. Looked the manual and decided to give AE a call about a issue with my T5M, ball cups to tight. So after my quick talk with customer service explaining my issue and them acknowledging there is a problem he suggested to just buy new ones. So let me get this straight I buy a 279 dollar kit and a part doesn't work correctly and I have to buy more in hopes that it fixes the problem. Not really impressed, I hope there isn't the same issue with SC5M. Haven't had a issue with the B5M so hope my issue was an isolated issue; however, I think how they treated me during the call really sucks. If I owned a company and sell a customer a product that isn't to par you bet your ass I would make things right. That was the first and last time I will be calling AE for anything. Before anybody comments on how to fix them I have tried everything on all the forums on how to fix the problem nothing seems to loosen them. I'm not going to buy a special tool and try to fix a piece like a ball cup like customer service suggested before buying new ones. I'll just bight the bullet and buy new ones I guess. Sorry if I seem bitter but almost a grand in three kits and can't get the service that should accompany them for a 3 dollar fix.
There is a distinct possibility that if you buy new cups, you will have the same issue. How are they supposed to make it "right" send you cups until you get ones that are loose? ALL of mine have been tight. I have been able to keep them nice via pinching and cleaning. Maintenance and tool work is part of the "hobby". If you cant get over it, just run tlr cups and studs. Some people do.
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:10 AM   #428
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99% of people who have had this problem have fixed it by squeezing the ballcup while on the stud until you see the cup go oblong on the stud. This is happening to all the vehicles that have these ballcups. you have to use some big pliers as it does require some force.

If you want proof this works there are several videos on youtube that demonstrate this before and after
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:16 AM   #429
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Pop the cups on the balls the wrong way (upside down), take them off, then install them the correct way. This is night and day better than squeezing them with pliers.
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:24 AM   #430
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I was going to convert my T5M over to the SC5m but there's no manual online yet nor do they have the chassis listed on the site. Can anyone rattle off the SC5M chassis part # for me?
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:26 AM   #431
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99% of people who have had this problem have fixed it by squeezing the ballcup while on the stud
This... As I prefer them tight after installing then pinch to free up. I feel there's less chance of popping a ball cup. I also had to do the pinch method on one of my shock ends...

Another important tip is to use blue loctite on the inner rear ball stud. If you don't, it will back out and shear off flush in the alum piece.
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:26 AM   #432
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My google foo is better than yours

http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l..._the_RC10SC5M/
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:27 AM   #433
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There is a distinct possibility that if you buy new cups, you will have the same issue. How are they supposed to make it "right" send you cups until you get ones that are loose? ALL of mine have been tight. I have been able to keep them nice via pinching and cleaning. Maintenance and tool work is part of the "hobby". If you cant get over it, just run tlr cups and studs. Some people do.
I have tried everything that you have suggested nothing seems to work. I understand tool work is part of the hobby; however, if a part doesn't work even after trying to fix it I shouldn't have to buy new ones. I guess I'm the 1 percent. I'm ordering new ones today. Might just order the TLR ones.
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:28 AM   #434
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Originally Posted by Bartman42 View Post
This... As I prefer them tight after installing then pinch to free up. I feel there's less chance of popping a ball cup. I also had to do the pinch method on one of my shock ends...

Another important tip is to use blue loctite on the inner rear ball stud. If you don't, it will back out and shear off flush in the alum piece.
I check my studs often for tightness and have never had this happen. If you cups are tight, they can "ratchet" the studs out, I am sure. Happens on my steering link from time to time
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:30 AM   #435
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I have tried everything that you have suggested nothing seems to work. I understand tool work is part of the hobby; however, if a part doesn't work even after trying to fix it I shouldn't have to buy new ones. I guess I'm the 1 percent. I'm ordering new ones today. Might just order the TLR ones.
You have to use a expanding jaw pliers. You have to squeeze it like you mean it. At first I did a light to medium squeeze and that didnt work. After, that I tried a heavy handed squeeze with expanding jaw pliers and it worked better. You need to keep an eye on them and repinch as needed. The rear cups break in faster and more than the fronts, so I mainly end up keeping an eye on the fronts.
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