Team Associated SC5M Thread
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#2536
Tech Apprentice
Some cut before but I prefer after.. gives me something to hold it by while painting .. cutting before reduces risk of scratching but I didn't find it to be a problem..
I'm a cheap ass so I use a ruler but I think any of the purpose build ones work fine.. rpm and losi both sell cheap ones on amazon
I'm a cheap ass so I use a ruler but I think any of the purpose build ones work fine.. rpm and losi both sell cheap ones on amazon
#2537
Can I put any associated springs on my sc5m? The ones in the kit look way different than the ones they sell individually. A main says they are compatible with my b5m shocks, but I just wanted to make sure. My b5m shocks have more coils on them (not sure the correct term) and they would have to compress a little bit to fit on.
#2538
Can I put any associated springs on my sc5m? The ones in the kit look way different than the ones they sell individually. A main says they are compatible with my b5m shocks, but I just wanted to make sure. My b5m shocks have more coils on them (not sure the correct term) and they would have to compress a little bit to fit on.
#2539
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Hey guys, so today I'm trying to get all the electronics set into my truck and start wiring. Unfortunately I didn't realize that Associated wouldn't include a horn for a Reedy servo, so I'm waiting for that to arrive so I can run.
Anyway, I'm trying to set my slipper and I'm lost. I have to tighten the diff all the way down to get any sort of "tightness" when I try to turn the wheels. Is there something I'm overlooking possibly? I swore I built the diffs correctly. I followed the videos on the front page of this thread. What should I be looking for possibly being incorrect?
Also, my bellcrank is ever so slightly rubbing my servo. Is this normal? It seems really tight. I'm running a Reedy 1508.
Anyway, I'm trying to set my slipper and I'm lost. I have to tighten the diff all the way down to get any sort of "tightness" when I try to turn the wheels. Is there something I'm overlooking possibly? I swore I built the diffs correctly. I followed the videos on the front page of this thread. What should I be looking for possibly being incorrect?
Also, my bellcrank is ever so slightly rubbing my servo. Is this normal? It seems really tight. I'm running a Reedy 1508.
when I build diffs I tighten them until you can't turn the gear by hand if both outdrives are locked. I use allen keys or drivers in each outdrive so I can hold them both in one hand, and then turn the gear with the other. Just tighten a little at a time checking to see if you can turn the gear as you go, once you can't turn the gear then it should be good. I've been using this method since the 90's and its always worked for me,
#2540
Which ones are the actual sct springs? They don't carry them in the stores here, and when I search on a main it brings up the buggy and truck springs
#2541
Tech Apprentice
Use the part numbers from the AE sc5m parts page to search for them.. note there are two versions for each, a tight coil and a wide one .. the wide spaced coils are the newer version.
https://www.teamassociated.com/cars_...s_accessories/
https://www.teamassociated.com/cars_...s_accessories/
#2542
I think I have the wide spaced ones now that came with the kit, and hats why I was thrown off when looking for new ones because none looked the same. If I'm trying to get less traction roll, should I do stiffer springs/oil?
#2544
Yeah I have the car about as low as it goes. I was considering sway bars, but I have no idea how to install them. I got a new radio and I think that may solve a lot of my steeribg issues. My old radio was incredibly glitchy, so hopefully this steadys it out. But going into big sweepers and traction rolling is my biggest issue
#2545
Tech Apprentice
Traction rolling is more common if you're off the throttle or braking during the corner.. try and practice getting all your slowing done ahead of the corner so you can stay throttle positive throughout the turn..
( I don't actually race, my son does, but I try and understand everything enough to be a helpful coach to him so take my advice with a grain of salt and try and watch what the pros at your track are doing)
( I don't actually race, my son does, but I try and understand everything enough to be a helpful coach to him so take my advice with a grain of salt and try and watch what the pros at your track are doing)
#2546
Traction rolling is more common if you're off the throttle or braking during the corner.. try and practice getting all your slowing done ahead of the corner so you can stay throttle positive throughout the turn..
( I don't actually race, my son does, but I try and understand everything enough to be a helpful coach to him so take my advice with a grain of salt and try and watch what the pros at your track are doing)
( I don't actually race, my son does, but I try and understand everything enough to be a helpful coach to him so take my advice with a grain of salt and try and watch what the pros at your track are doing)
#2547
Tech Fanatic
Still can't shake the wish to have this car despite just having upgraded various things in my SC10RS, and it doesn't help any that the local shop is running a free accessory deal at the moment. I guess one thing is that upgrading the shocks would be so expensive, that money would go a decent way towards an SC5M already. No threads means not such good adjustment, and the local outdoor track is more 1/8 than 1/10 I guess and can get bumpy (same with many other tracks where SCT races are held here), so the small stock shocks get kinda overworked.
One thing about the SC5M I had kind of forgotten is that it has a ball diff. I've only had gear diffs so far, even my B5M is the "carpet version" with a gear diff. How long does the ball diff usually last in the SC5M? Would it possibly last longer in the lighter B5M if they were swapped around?
As a side note while I've only had it for a short time, I've already come to appreciate the Pro-Line body mount kit with secure-loc caps on my SC10, and have also ordered them for my SCTE. Such a full kit isn't available for the SC5M, but I wonder if it'd be possible cut the pin mount nub on the AE mounts and drill a small hole to screw the cap thread thingie onto and use the caps that way?
Finally, I'm still kinda worried that if I make the purchase AE will come out with a SC6 right after... just like they came out with the SC5M not long after I got the SC10
One thing about the SC5M I had kind of forgotten is that it has a ball diff. I've only had gear diffs so far, even my B5M is the "carpet version" with a gear diff. How long does the ball diff usually last in the SC5M? Would it possibly last longer in the lighter B5M if they were swapped around?
As a side note while I've only had it for a short time, I've already come to appreciate the Pro-Line body mount kit with secure-loc caps on my SC10, and have also ordered them for my SCTE. Such a full kit isn't available for the SC5M, but I wonder if it'd be possible cut the pin mount nub on the AE mounts and drill a small hole to screw the cap thread thingie onto and use the caps that way?
Finally, I'm still kinda worried that if I make the purchase AE will come out with a SC6 right after... just like they came out with the SC5M not long after I got the SC10
#2548
Tech Initiate
I have to of these trucks now and we run them against a a stock slash brushed, a stock slash brushless and a brushed slash with monster truck tires.... and the 5 trucks have a mighty battle on our short track. 9 seconds around our kind of sandy track is a good lap time and our TA Sc5m is definetly a half to a full second faster around the track. It just feels racy. It handles every jump more smoothly, it keeps traction in the turns so much better and is just all around easier to drive fast. It's an unbelievable difference that you can feel the very first lap.
#2549
There is a massive difference between them, regardless of upgrades..
Also many parts interchange, the sc10 gear diff will run in the sc5m..