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Old 11-24-2016, 05:56 PM   #1996
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I was under the impression you needed them to run the JConcepts Hazards wheels with a 3mm Offset. Is this not correct?
I run Avid +3 with the stock steel hex/axle. I doubt JC is different but somebody else will know for sure.
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Old 11-24-2016, 06:01 PM   #1997
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Okay cool, that is good to know. Can someone please confirm?
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Old 11-24-2016, 06:11 PM   #1998
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There is nothing special about the Hazzard wheels. They are just like every other brand of +3mm wheels on the market.
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Old 11-24-2016, 06:23 PM   #1999
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Okay, so no need to run the front clamping hex or the Front Axle clamping Axle with the Hazard wheels? After looking at Jconcepts website it states the following. So, I guess that answers my question. Thanks

To use the 12mm hex wheel on the orginal SC10 (bearing front/pin rear) it requires JConcepts part # 2081 for the rear and the Team Associated inboard hub hex conversion for front.

Fits:

SC10 F&R with 12mm hex
SC10 4x4 front and rear
SC10B rear
SC5M front and rear
Traxxas Slash 2wd F&R with wide-track suspension kits
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Old 11-24-2016, 07:04 PM   #2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tylem28 View Post
Okay, so no need to run the front clamping hex or the Front Axle clamping Axle with the Hazard wheels? After looking at Jconcepts website it states the following. So, I guess that answers my question. Thanks

To use the 12mm hex wheel on the orginal SC10 (bearing front/pin rear) it requires JConcepts part # 2081 for the rear and the Team Associated inboard hub hex conversion for front.

Fits:

SC10 F&R with 12mm hex
SC10 4x4 front and rear
SC10B rear
SC5M front and rear
Traxxas Slash 2wd F&R with wide-track suspension kits
That's for the original SC10 that had a bearing front wheel and pin rear. You have an SC5M with hex front and rear. The Hazard wheels, both 0 offset and +3 fit the SC5M with no problems or extra parts. Order two of those and you will be fine.
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Old 11-24-2016, 07:12 PM   #2001
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Perfect, Thank you! So is there no need to run the clamping hex in the rear? Is the rear metal or that plastic hex cap with pin?
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Old 11-24-2016, 07:28 PM   #2002
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Kit includes plastic rear hexes and a 1 piece steel front axle. The aluminum rear hexes do have some advantages. I run aluminum hexes on all my cars because you never have to worry about pulling the hex off when removing the wheels.

If you can swing a couple extra dollars I would suggest grabbing a coupe different size rear hexes if you go aluminum. I see a lot of people swear up and down that "this is THE one, you HAVE to run these". I disagree. Everyone drives differently, tracks are all different. I dont run 8.5s on my SC5M or my T5M. I tried a couple different sizes and decided on something else. Try a couple and see what works for YOU.
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Old 11-24-2016, 07:45 PM   #2003
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That's great info 1/4mile. I am picking up the 8.5 for the rear (I don't care for the plastic Hex) I also run 2-3 classes most of the time and if I need to change a set of tires I don't want to spend a lot of time trying to get a hex back out of a wheel. I'll try these first and if I don't like them I'll try some other sizes?

Am I correct is saying the larger the size the further out it pushes the wheels (Wider Wheelbase). Same holds true for the other way? 5mm would be a narrower wheelbase?
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Old 11-24-2016, 07:50 PM   #2004
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Wheelbase is the distance between the front and rear axle centerlines. You are talking about track width. But yes, smaller is narrower.
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Old 11-24-2016, 07:55 PM   #2005
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Yes, that's what I meant. I appreciate all your help!
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Old 11-25-2016, 05:13 AM   #2006
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Originally Posted by tylem28 View Post
That's great info 1/4mile. I am picking up the 8.5 for the rear (I don't care for the plastic Hex) I also run 2-3 classes most of the time and if I need to change a set of tires I don't want to spend a lot of time trying to get a hex back out of a wheel. I'll try these first and if I don't like them I'll try some other sizes?

Am I correct is saying the larger the size the further out it pushes the wheels (Wider Wheelbase). Same holds true for the other way? 5mm would be a narrower wheelbase?
Yes, pulling the wheels off and the Hex sticking in the wheel is the worst, and 95% of the time when that happens you end up losing the pin also so the clamping hexes just make life so much easier

I never played around with trying different widths because for me personally, I doubt I would ever notice something like 1mm different width. Heck, I could probably run 5mm on one side and 8mm on the other and never notice
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Old 11-25-2016, 07:24 PM   #2007
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Added one of these to the collection. Should be a huge improvement over my slash.

How long did it take you all to build? Mine is coming tomorrow and of course I have a local race I'd like to use it at. I won't rush but didn't know if it's like an hour or an all day assembly.
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Old 11-25-2016, 07:26 PM   #2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tylem28 View Post
Added one of these to the collection. Should be a huge improvement over my slash.

How long did it take you all to build? Mine is coming tomorrow and of course I have a local race I'd like to use it at. I won't rush but didn't know if it's like an hour or an all day assembly.
Longer than an hour....Take your time and make sure to get it together right the first time. Should take a few good hours of assembly.
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Old 11-25-2016, 07:32 PM   #2009
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Originally Posted by tylem28 View Post
Added one of these to the collection. Should be a huge improvement over my slash.

How long did it take you all to build? Mine is coming tomorrow and of course I have a local race I'd like to use it at. I won't rush but didn't know if it's like an hour or an all day assembly.
It took me at least 6 hours to build mine.
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Old 11-25-2016, 07:49 PM   #2010
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Is anyone running front sway bars, rear sway bars, or both?
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