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Old 07-20-2016, 05:43 AM   #1756
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Dirt oval would be about the only racing environment where I would consider that combo. Sweet action!
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Old 07-20-2016, 12:43 PM   #1757
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I posted this in the T5M section but maybe someone here can help me.

Just got a T5M used and need to rebuild the ball diff and replace worn out drives. I have a brand new T4.2/SC10.2 ball diff kit (ASC9853). I see that the part number is different for the T5M/S5M (ASC91421) Can I use it? Are any parts compatible? It would save me another $50.
Thanks in advance.

Disregard. Question got answered!
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:09 AM   #1758
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Does anyone have pictures, instructions or a video how to instal the rear sway bar 91535? I thought it would come with some paperwork and it did not. I had the jconcepts front sway bar on my old sc10 and it had instructions. Thanks
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:54 AM   #1759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blvdbuzzard View Post
I did the drop form about a foot. Was 32-33mm. I will try again and see what it is. I have the collars adjusted with just enough pressure to keep the springs from moving. So they are about 1/8 from the top so zero pre load on the springs. I am using the stock white springs. Get a set of softer springs? I have the ones from my SC10.2, blue, grey, red and yellow.

Buzz.
If you can't measure it, what I'd do is move your shock collars up on the front and rear so that in the rear the bones are level, and in the front the front arms are level.

Level meaning parallel to the ground.

If you need more detail, check out page 19 on the SC5M manual (https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...C10SC5M-TK.pdf).
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Old 07-21-2016, 04:54 PM   #1760
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Quote:
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Left and right rear hub swapped?
Yup lol. When I went back and looked I saw that they flipped. Once I switched em it was fine. That's what you get while building late at night.
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Old 07-28-2016, 04:32 AM   #1761
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I have a question for the seasoned rc vets. Do we need the side guards on these trucks? I'm trimming the fat where I can.
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Old 07-28-2016, 06:24 AM   #1762
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The truck is already fairly light. If you remove the nerf bars you will probably go through bodies a lot quicker. They may also be a ROAR requirement but I don't know that for sure.
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Old 07-28-2016, 06:26 AM   #1763
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I'd also leave them. I'd rather somebody brush off the side guard than get hung up within the wheels like an open wheel car/truck.
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Old 07-28-2016, 07:55 AM   #1764
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Thanks for the replies. It makes sense to not let other trucks or buggies get caught up in between my wheels.
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:13 PM   #1765
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Yeah leave em. Infact, some people actually put Velcro on them and on the body to keep it from bouncing around as much. The way you would on a buggy. Give that a try!
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Old 07-30-2016, 11:00 AM   #1766
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After spending some quality time with the truck. it is handling pretty well. I was looking for the black or even silver springs. I was only able to get the green ones. They are 1 step softer. I have zero pre-load on the collars. The collars are just turned down enough to keep the springs in place.

Ride height is now just a touch over 24mm. If I order the black springs it should be right at 22-23mm.

It has just an ever so slight over steer and a touch loose in the back. I am going to try a few tire combo's to see how that works.

At the track, buggies are turning 21-23 second laps. Me and my brother in our SC5M's are doing them in 25-26 seconds. We are total hacks and not racers, so that is pretty good for us. You fast guys may be closer in time but we do have a good time and that is what this is all about.

That and me beating my brother of course.

I was reading and looking at the three gear tranny. What parts do you need to change it out? The housing is $7.00, do you need new bearings, shaft?


Buzz.
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Old 08-01-2016, 04:55 AM   #1767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blvdbuzzard View Post

I was reading and looking at the three gear tranny. What parts do you need to change it out? The housing is $7.00, do you need new bearings, shaft?


Buzz.
you need the housing and 3 gear motor plate
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:11 AM   #1768
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I took my SC5M out for the first run last week. Overall I'm very happy with how it drives but am going back and forth on the ride height. I see by reading through this thread and from most setups online that almost everybody runs lower ride heights than the kit setup, to get even close to those I have to run the collars up enough that that the springs have some freeplay in them which I of course don't want (I'm using the middle spring cups, and gray front, white rear springs). These ride heights are also far from the kit setup of "bones and front arms level. I didn't mess with ride height too much last week and plan on doing more experimenting this week, but the truck did feel a little "lazy" coming off jumps like the suspension was just sacking out on the jump face and not preloading. Is the kit setup for ride height just that far off for everyone?
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:17 AM   #1769
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[QUOTE=RC Juice;14620470 Is the kit setup for ride height just that far off for everyone?
.[/QUOTE]

The kit setup of 30/28 is WAY too high. I am running 26/24 or 27/25 depending on track layout- medium/large indoor clay. Yeah, you don't want the springs rattling at full droop... the right cups will fix that. It's a awesome 2wd truck and shares lots of parts with the b5m (RIP).
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Old 08-01-2016, 10:15 AM   #1770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
you need the housing and 3 gear motor plate
Gear cover too
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