Jade67

iTrader: (5)

I think that I need to lengthen the rear hub link setting. Right now I have it the two hole hub insert (B) and I have it set in A location. I am wondering if I need to either move it out to the B location on the B Insert or Install the A insert and put it in the A location. That should help with the rear coming loose on the corner exit when on power right?

man1ac

Like to switch my rear hexes to aluminium. Which ones do I need? There are so many different offsets available...The manual lists in the kit stock setup sheets 8.5mm in the rear and 6 in the front?

Flip boy

iTrader: (1)

What type of track are you on? I don't run all the brass in back, that could be why it steps out on you. Green truck rears gray fronts 26 rear ride height 27 front body off. 8.5 hexes rear, i just run the stock front axles because the hexes are flaky from a manufacturing stand point.

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

Jade687, have you tried the 30° kickup bulkhead in the front?

Jade67

iTrader: (5)

No I have not

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

Jade67

Take the weight out of the front
mount shorty inline with wire end forward
mount esc centered in front of battery
3/4 oz weight on both side of shorty at rear of battery area
-1 to -1.5 rear camber
30 degree front bulkhead
drop ride height 1mm or 2mm

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

Jade 67

This truck has a ton of steering. Make sure your radio steering is turned down. If I turn mine up to 100 it will swap the ass end. I have mine around 60 and can turn up or down as needed. Check your weight bias on a scale and make changes for your nose up and down issues.

Jade67

iTrader: (5)

Thank you for the advice... Here is an update from Yesterday night at the track:

I took the added weight out of the front end and lengthen the rear camber links. Lengthening the rear camber links helped out a TON. The car feels much more planted now. Ride height is still set at 27fr/25rr but I am going to drop it down a little more because it would traction roll going into the sweeper at the end of the straight. I also am going to turn down the drag brake on the ESC. I realized that it was up rather high, I normally run very little if any at all so I wasn't even thinking about it until I let someone else drive the truck.

Again thank you for the suggestions, I am going to try a couple of the things that were recommended. I am not sure I will do the inline setup as I didn't care for it with my B5M's. I know that they are two different animals but with the changes I made last night it is much better.

Cabledawg

iTrader: (1)

I just bought the truck and really want to keep it light. I found a servo that weighs 38.5G and puts out 191 0z-in at .14 seconds. Its the MKS-HV747. Is there any reason this will not work. Anyone know of a lighter servo that would work?

55Guy

iTrader: (104)

Dose any one have of know where i might get some set up sheets for a in door carpet track with lots of traction. I need to try to get my sc5m to quit rolling in corners so bad.

sanderson373

Add limiters to yur shocks and go up in fluid and either electrical tape or dremel down the first 2or 3 rows of pins on the inside and outside of yur tire. You jus have to play with it. I also went up to 10k in the diff I might go up more but I'm running an 8.5t

55Guy

iTrader: (104)

Thanks I was trying a 6.5 motor but will be putting my 9.5 back in. do people try shorter shocks or any other way to lower ride height

Nissanguy8

iTrader: (20)

I just picked up a really nice T5M, what would I need in order to convert it to an SC5M? Thanks for any input.

Cabledawg

iTrader: (1)

Go on Ebay and get an S and a C. You will have to find a way to get rid of that T though.

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

Chassis
Side guards
Front and rear bumpers
Body mounts
Front axles
Center cradle
1 really long screw to go through the rear bumber. Plus some assorted other screws