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Old 05-28-2015, 08:54 PM   #1
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Default Offical Team Associated SC5M Thread



1:10 Scale 2WD Mid Motor Electric Off Road Competition Truck Kit
Based on Team Associated’s wildly successful, race-winning RC10B5M platform, the RC10SC5M Team Kit represents the next step in the evolution of competitive short-course racing.

From great beginnings
Starting with the data acquired through the development of the B5M and T5M, the engineers behind the doors of Team Associated’s AREA 51 set out to design the ultimate short-course truck chassis that utilizes all the advantages that come with a mid-motor configuration.

Designed to win
The RC10SC5M Team Kit features a high-performance, no-compromise dedicated mid-motor designed chassis, configured specifically for short course. The RC10SC5M Team Kit shares nearly 90% of the parts as the B5M and T5M Team Kits, making it easier than ever to run multiple classes at the same time.

The right parts for the best performance
From the aluminum hard anodized chassis, to the Factory Team V2 threaded shocks, to the Factory Team VTS slipper clutch, the RC10SC5M Team Kit comes with all of these features and many more. Through testing and racing, these specific parts have been hand selected to deliver the ultimate short-course truck performance.

This vehicle needs extra parts to make it operational. Click on the SPECS tab above to see what extra equipment you'll need to make the vehicle operational, such as motor and battery pack.


Features
  • Advanced B5M mid-motor design developed and applied to a short-course truck platform
  • Narrow, hard-anodized aluminum chassis with centralized mass and mid-motor position for improved handling on high-grip offroad tracks
  • Chassis fits R.O.A.R.-approved 2S saddle packs and 2S short packs using optional foam insert
  • V2 12mm Big Bore threaded aluminum shocks with 3mm shafts and low-friction O-rings
  • Updated four-gear transmission with lighter aluminum top shaft, stronger gears, precision ball bearings, and a 14-carbide-ball differential
  • Pro-Line SC5M clear body included
  • New inline front suspension features heavy duty steering and caster blocks, while the insert system allows for easy caster and trailing axle adjustments
  • Adjustable front suspension mount angle (kick-up) options of 25 and 30 degrees
  • One-piece front axle/hex adapter and large front wheel bearing for added durability
  • Full bearing steering system with horizontal ball studs for finer Ackermann adjustments
  • Heavy-duty ball cups and ball studs allow for maximum suspension travel while reducing binding and friction
  • Rear hubs feature large rear wheel bearings, as well as the quick and easy insert system to adjust camber link position and rear toe-in











MANUAL:SC5M Manual

Arm insert supplement: Arm Mount Supplemental Instructions

Gear Diff Supplement: Gear Diff Supplemental Instructions

Aluminum Rear Hub Supplement: Aluminum Rear Hub Supplemental Instructions

SET-UP SHEETS (both cars):

Official AE Setup Sheets:


Petitrc.com Setup Sheets: PetitRC Setup Sheets

FACTORY TEAM PARTS:
All Factory Team Parts can be found here:
http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_a...s_accessories/

TIPS and TRICKS:

How to free up your ball cups:

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Other Resources
Petit RC Page - Very Comprehensive guide for the B5 and B5M
Tuning with Camber Links - Long read, and a different way to tune your car, but it can make more sense for some.
Razathorn's Camber Link Tuning Guide
Darcness's Tuning Guide
Martin Crisp's Car Tuning Guide - Onroad oriented, but very informative.
Learnsetup.com - App based setup sheets. Also by Martin Crisp, $10/year subscription.
Anti Squat article

How to set your slipper, rebuild your diff and adjust your ball diff (courtesy of Racer53):

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


How to build your ball diff (via Team Associated's youtube channel):

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


How to build and bleed your shocks (via Team Associated's youtube channel):

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Diff building and break in procedure by Ryan Cavelieri and Jared Tebo:

Ryan Cavelieri Video

Jared Tebo Video

AFTERMARKET PARTS:

Red Workshop "Low CG" transmission for carpet and astro turf:Red Workshop Facebook Page

RC Promask: RC Promask Parts

Plan B Racing: Plan B Racing Parts - Graphite chassis, carbon fiber front shock towers, carbon fiber motor plate for 3 gear transmission and more

Factory R/C: Carbon Fiber Battery Brace (Eliminates the battery foam)

Acer Racing: Ceramic Bearing Kit

CB Custom's Cut Gears: Custom Cut Gears

WillS's Fan Mount: 3D Printed Fan Mount

Alton Design Innovations Fan mount (replaces stock waterfall): ADI Fan Mount

Fan Mount by xMOx on shapeways: Shapeways fan mount

Fan Mount by ebrewste on shapeways:
Ebrewste Shapeways fan mount
ebrewste fan mount on shapeways (soft mount)

New front axles with 5* of kingpin inclination by Elvo on shapeways:
Inner bearing insert
Outer bearing insert

"Low Rider" low CG transmission for Carpet and astro turf by AC RC Gear on Shapeways:
Left Gear Box Half
Right Gear Box Half

Vision Racing Products: X Pistons

Hot Racing:
Aluminum Front Axles
Vented Twin Slipper Clutch
Aluminum Diff Halves
Aluminum Servo Mounts
Aluminum Caster Blocks
Aluminum Steering Blocks
Aluminum Rear Hubs
Graphite Link Mounts (replacement)

Boom Racing:
Aluminum Rear Arms
Aluminum Front Arms (Flat)
Aluminum Front C-Hubs
Alluminum Rear Hubs
Aluminum Front Shock Tower (Flat Arms)
Aluminum Front Steering Knuckles

PSM R/C:
Aluminum Shock Standoff
Aluminum Caster Block Insert
-1mm Offset Front Axles
+1mm Offset Front Axles
0 Offset Front Axles
Aluminum Rear CVA Axles
5mm Carbon Front Shock Tower

Casper R/C Ceramic Caged Thrust Bearing for Diff: Casper R/C

Imbue R/C:
12mm Brass pistons
Aluminum Front Axles
Carbon Fiber Motor Plate
Carbon Front Shock Tower

Stiky Liks Racing Concepts: Stik Liks Milled Chassis

JConcepts:
Aluminum wing mounts
Aluminum Wing Shim
Aluminum Steering Bellcranks
Aluminum Motor Mount
Aluminum Front Suspension Brace
Titanium Front Axle
Aluminum Rear Hexes
Aluminum Front Hexes
Carbon Fiber Battery Brace
Chassis Protector
Fin Titanium Turnbuckles
Pre-trimmed rear wing

Tsunami R/C (Carbon fiber motor plates and battery braces): Tsunami R/C Store

RDRP:
Aluminum VTS Slipper Parts (use with AE slipper pads)
Aluminum Shock Cups
Aluminum Shock Mounts
Aluminum Steering Rack
Aluminum Motor Plate
Brass Front Bulkhead
Aluminum front bulkhead

Sumo-Racing (Both B5 and B5m battery braces): Sumo Racing Carbon Battery Braces

SNR Graphite: SNR Battery Brace

Diggity R/C: Diggity Carbon Fiber Battery Brace

Stick-it1 Graphics (custom name decals): Stick-it1 Graphics

Epic1Designs: Chassis Protectors

TBoneRacing: Nylon Rear Skid Plate

RCShox:
2-Stage shock pistons
Garodisc Slipper Pads - new style
Garodisc Slipper Pads - old style

Proline:
Graphite Front Shock Tower (Flat Arm)
Graphite Front Shock Tower (Gull Wing)

Exotek Racing:
B5M/B5 3 gear Flight motor plate
Alloy Rear Hanger with shims
Front Hinge Pin Brace
3-Gear Aluminum Vented Motor Plate
B5/B5M Vented Flight Motor Plate
Aluminum Rear Camber Mount
Titanium Front Axles
Aluminum Topshaft
Carbon Fiber Front Shock Tower (Flat Arm)
Carbon Fiber Front Shock Tower (Gull Wing)
Aluminum Rear Clamping Hex
Slipper Eliminator
Carbon Fiber Battery Brace
Aluminum Rear Wing Mount
Aluminum Wing Buttons

STRC:
Aluminum Front Bulkhead
Aluminum Steering Bellcranks
Aluminum Front Suspension Brace
Aluminum Front Castor Block
Aluminum Rear Hubs
Aluminum Finned Motor Plate
Aluminum Shock Mounts
Aluminum Rear Camber Link
Carbon Fiber Battery Brace
Titanium Screw and Aluminum Locknut Kit

Protek:
Titanium Screw Kit
Pan Car Sized 2S pack for stock racing
Titanium Rear CVA Axle

RzHobby:
Stainless Steel Screw Kit
Titanium Screw Kit

Fastener-Express:
Fastener Express Screws in Bulk

Bfast R/C (Diff rings, Diff Balls, Thrust Balls and more):
Bfast R/C

TKO Competition: TKO Flat diff rings

Slick Diffz:
Flat diff rings
Flat diff rings with carbide balls
Diff rings, carbide balls, ceramic thrust (caged)

MIP:
3 Gear transmission with Aluminum Gear Case
Puck Drive System with Shiney CVD's - For Mod
Puck Drive System with Bi-metal CVD's - For Stock
Bypass Shock Valve System
Aluminum Top Shaft

Lunsford:
Titanium Turnbuckles
Titanium Front Axles
Titanium Shock Mounts
Titanium Screw Kit
Titanium Ball Stud Kit

Avid:
Ceramic Caged Thrust Bearing for Diff
Carbide Caged Thrust Bearing for Diff
Shock Standoffs
Triad Evo Slipper Clutch
New Triad Plates
Aluminum Wing Buttons
De-Shielded Transmission Bearing Kit
Titanium Ball Stud Kit
Aluminum Spring Cups
Hate kit bearings? Build your own here:
Custom Bearing Builder
Aluminum Battery Thumb Screws
Vented Motor Plate

Schelle Racing:
Aluminum Rear Hubs
B5/B5M hub replacement bearings
Ceramic Bearing set for 3 gear transmission
One piece ceramic thrust and tungsten carbide diff balls
Titanium Screw Kit
B5 Steering Bushing Set
Aluminum Shock Standoffs
Carbon Battery Strap
Chassis Protector
Aluminum Top Shaft
Ceramic Bearings - Transmission
4mm Aluminum Serrated Wheel Nuts
Nova Slipper Clutch
Nova Lockout Plate
64 Pitch 88 tooth Spur
64 Pitch 96 tooth Spur
Aluminum Rear Arm mount

Other Links

Mcpappy Pinion Carrier:
Pinion Tree, 64 pitch, but you could probably fit 48 pitch ones.

Stiky Kicks Tire Sauce:
Sticky Kicks

AFTERMARKET BODIES:

Sweep Racing:
Muzzle Body

FTW:
B5M Reactor Body

Jconcepts:
Finnisher Body
Silencer Body

Proline:
Phantom Body

RCPromask:
RC Promask Body

TeamAzarashi:
Team Azarashi

Penguin:
Penguin Body


Frequently asked Questions and Answers

Q: I'm missing parts or parts are not manufactured properly. Who can I contact?
A: Contact AE: http://teamassociated.com/contact/

Q: When is the Factory Team version coming out?
A: [b]THERE IS NO ETA ON THE FACTORY TEAM KIT....YET.

Q:What is needed to convert T5M to SC5M?
A:


Q: Will there be a rear motor version?
A: [b]Probably not, when they released the T5M, Associated released a statement saying they believe mid motor can be tuned to work in almost any condition.

Q: How much weight do some of the lightweight transmission pieces save? Do they make a difference?
A: Here's a fantastic article on lightning your B5m courtesy of zeakemedia: http://www.prolineracing.com/blog/20...nd/#more-32666

Any lightweight topshaft, diff halves or cut gears will go to helping your transmission spin up faster, which is a real advantage in stock. Here are some pictures courtesy of Zeakemedia of some of the weight differences between stock and lightweight parts:

Stock AE Top Shaft:
[/URL][/IMG]

Aluminum Top Shaft:


Stock AE Diff Halves:


Lightweight Diff Halves:


Stock AE VTS Slipper:


Speedy's RC Slipper Eliminator:


Stock AE Idler and Diff Gears:


Speedy's RC Cut Idler and Diff Gears:


Notice the weight differences? With less weight, your transmission will accelerate faster which translate into more "punch". Eliminating the slipper is the easiest way to gain acceleration, especially when coming out of corner or trying to clear jumps. In the competitive "Stock" class, having that punch can mean all the difference.

Q: I'm getting binding/grinding in my front wheel bearings, how can I fix this issue?
A: There was/is an issue with the crush washer that resides between the two front wheel bearings. AE has addressed the issue with a running change. To fix the issue, simply get a new crush tube, buy better quality bearings (plenty of places sell bearings by the pack) or monitor the bearing inserts for molding issues. Also try a clamping hex with axle in the front (best solution).

Q: Should I buy a B5R or a B5M?
A: If you can afford it, buy both. If your local track is generally high bite, go with MM. If you race on a variety of track surfaces, having two cars is the best way to go.

Q: What do I gain by cutting into the rear waterfall?
A: More flex in the rear of the car, which can affect traction.

Q: What Batteries Fit the B5M?
A: All "Shorty", "Saddle" and "Square" packs will fit. If you run stock, you may want to try a 2s pan car pack like this.

Q: How do I convert the VTS to a two-pad system?
A: The best way is to get a second #9603 pad and use the #7495 Vented V2 Slipper Hubs to make a true two-pad slipper. If you don't want to spend the extra cash, just eliminate one of the #91177 pads and the #91178 VTS Plate. To be honest, the Avid Triad and Schelle Nova are good, more consistent replacements for the stock slipper system.

Q: I just bought the aluminum steering bellcranks. Where does this little washer go?
A: It goes between the bearings. It acts as a crush washer. *picture coming soon*

Q: Do I need to lube the gears in the transmission?
A: This is a strictly personal preference, but a little grease doesn't hurt anything. We are talking about a small dab of grease, in one spot, on each gear. What kind of grease you ask? Black or clear AE grease work, shock oil works; just about anything that will provide a little lubrication.

Q: What gearing do I start with?
A: This question is very track dependent, but for Stock, start off with a 66, 69 or 72 spur and 28-34 pinion. For Mod, follow the chart in the manual to start. Always gear for temperature, and check after every practice run to ensure you are not building up too much heat.

Q: My turnbuckles keep popping off when I try to adjust them, how do I fix them?
A: Make sure you have greased the threads with either black grease or chapstick. You may want to use a drill to "work" each turnbuckle into the cups (picture coming soon). This will cut and work the threads into the ballcups making it easier to make adjustments.

Q: How can I free up my ball cups? They are too tight!
A: See this or this video. Also try to polish and/or sand (with high grit sandpaper) the stock ball studs. Lunsford and Avid both offer titanium ball studs which should have better tolerances. See above parts listing for each.

Q: What hop-ups should I get for my new kit?
A: (If I had a dollar for every time this question comes up in a thread) Here's a list of the most popular upgrades:
  • Clamping Front and Rear Hexes
  • FT Rear Aluminum Hub Carriers
  • AE X-Rings
  • Avid Triad or Schelle Nova Slipper Clutch
  • Ceramic Ball Bearings
  • Aluminum Rear Camber mount
  • Carbon Fiber Battery Brace
  • Aluminum Top Shaft
  • Ceramic Thrust Balls
  • One piece Ceramic Thrust Bearing
  • Carbide Diff Balls
  • Bfast or TKO Diff Rings
  • Gear Diff
  • Titanium or Aluminum Screws
  • Aluminum Front Arm Brace
  • Aluminum A and D mounts
  • Brass A and D mounts
  • Schelle or Avid Shock Bushings/Mounts
  • Exotek Rear Wing Mounts
  • Aluminum Wing Buttons
  • Aluminum Steering Rack
  • Titanium Turnbuckles
  • Titanium Ball Studs

Q: I just bought the aluminum rear hubs. Which sway do I mount them?
A: B5M = etching to the rear. B5R = etching to the front

Q: What does adding the B5's rear arms do for handling?
A: Adding the B5's rear arms shortens the wheelbase of the B5M. There are two things to remember when adjusting the wheelbase of your car. The first point is that the shorter the wheel base, the easier it is for the car to "rotate" in the corner, which can translate into a looser car than a long wheel base scenario. The second point is that as you adjust the wheelbase, you are adjusting where the center balancing point of the car is relative to the front and rear of the car. In other words, you are moving the "static weight" of the car either to the front or the rear of the car. This affects the way the car will react while turning. For more information on how to adjust your car, see the above tuning links.

Q: What does adding the flat front arms and tower do for the car?
A: This is one of the better answers to this question:


Essentially, the flat arms changes the way the front end of your car reacts. It is not a very expensive thing to try, and is definitely recommended.

Q: Do the AE X-Rings make a difference in the shocks?
A: Yes! They are expensive, but work better than stock, IMHO.

Q: My B5M seems heavy. What hop-ups do I need to lighten it up for Stock racing?
A: Here's a full list of items that will lighten up the car and make it a stock champion:
  • Xfinity carbon chassis by Xfactory, carbon chassis from PlanB or Bezerk or Stiky Liks milled chassis
  • Tsunami RC or Plan B Carbon Motor Plate
  • Cut Gears from Speedy's RC, CB Custom or RCShox
  • MIP, Schelle, AE or Exotek Aluminum top shaft
  • MIP Bi-Metal Puck System
  • Protek Titanium Axles
  • Avid, Schelle or Acer Ceramic bearings for the transmission (optional)
  • Exotek or Schelle Slipper Eliminators
  • Avid Triad or Schelle Nova Slipper Clutches
  • Titanium or Aluminum screw kits (or a mix of both)
  • Carbon Fiber Battery Brace
  • Low profile servo
  • Titanium turnbuckles
  • 14-16 guage wire
  • Protek 2s Pan car pack

Q: I see both AE and MIP offer a 3 gear transmission; is it better than a 4 gear?
A: See this:

Also see this, from Kurt Wenger, former AE designer and Schelle Racing owner:

And then see these explanations, courtesy of Team Durango:









How does this translate to the track? A three gear *should* accelerate faster, which would be beneficial in stock. However, note the rotation of the motor. This can affect the way the car jumps, in-air stability and acceleration. If you have the cash, give it a try!

Q: What is the "inline" setup I keep reading about?
A: AKA, "The Tacompton Setup" the inline setup is an electronics configuration that puts the shorty lipo and the Esc inline on the chassis. Here are some pictures (courtesy of Markt311):



Here's another inline layout, but with the ESC behind the servo (photo by splking1):


Here's yet another inline setup (photo by Wild Cherry):


Q: How can I cool my B5M motor?
A: You can get this fan mount or this fan mount or you can mount your fan in like in these pictures:

Note: The pictures I had in this section have been moved or deleted. I will add new ones soon.

**Don't forget to add holes in the body to allow for airflow for the fan!**


Q: How do I make the VTS Slipper work?
A:
Answer courtesy of Razathorn:



Q: What type of Diff Balls and Thrust balls should I use?
A: General consensus on this forum is that Carbide diff balls and Ceramic thrust balls make the best diff. I have used ceramic diff balls before, but it does require a tighter setting. I would suggest using the carbide/ceramic combo mentioned above, but make sure you follow a break-in procedure as outlined in the above links further up in this post.


Q: What are the lightest motor plates?
A: Here's a full list of all the current motor plates for the B5m and B5m Lite

B5M:
Exotek - 13grams
Tsunami -
PlanB - 10grams
AE (stock) - 20grams
AE (Machined) -

B5m Lite:
Exotek - 13grams
AE (stock) -
AE (Machined) -


Q:
A:

Last edited by 3srcracing; 05-29-2015 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:14 PM   #2
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My first mod will be to run a full stick pack right down the middle. It looks like it will fit just fine. Maybe esc on the waterfall.

Gotta say this truck looks killer.
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:51 PM   #3
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SOOO glad I sold my SC10.2 a few months ago!!! I wonder how much this one's going to cost???
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:53 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nissanguy8 View Post
SOOO glad I sold my SC10.2 a few months ago!!! I wonder how much this one's going to cost???
Stormer has it listed as $309, so I would guess right around there.
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:06 PM   #5
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I wonder what it would take for a T5m to be transformed into this SC5M? I still have my T5M sealed in the box!!!

I mean would buying the parts to convert it be worth it or would it cost too much?
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nissanguy8 View Post
I wonder what it would take for a T5m to be transformed into this SC5M? I still have my T5M sealed in the box!!!

I mean would buying the parts to convert it be worth it or would it cost too much?
Good question.. Added to original post.

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Old 05-28-2015, 11:09 PM   #7
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Sold my T5M before opening. Definitely prefer a SCT. Excited to see what shakes.
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Old 05-29-2015, 12:27 AM   #8
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You need to fix a few links up top not the B5m lite.
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:45 AM   #9
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I'm wondering if I am going to regret selling all the +3mm offset wheels and tires from when I switched from my old 10.2 to a Losi mid motor. By the way, anyone wanna buy a Losi mid motor? Hehehehehe
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Old 05-29-2015, 07:18 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
I'm wondering if I am going to regret selling all the +3mm offset wheels and tires from when I switched from my old 10.2 to a Losi mid motor. By the way, anyone wanna buy a Losi mid motor? Hehehehehe

Does this mean that this truck requires +3 wheels? I have a crapload of zero offset wheels/tires and that could be the deal breaker for me on getting this truck.
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Old 05-29-2015, 07:39 AM   #11
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That's the million dollar question at this point. It won't be deal breaker for me but I'm in the process of selling off +3's and purchasing zeros. My Tekno and most others run zero. It would be nice if they were zero and I'm guessing you would agree.
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Old 05-29-2015, 07:59 AM   #12
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When you guys say +3, do you mean these? I know HPI runs +4.5, and I think (and am probably wrong) but losi runs +0. The rims for the Losi dont say anything about an offset so thats why im assuming losi runs +0
So are the rims below +3+3=+6?
http://www.prolineracing.com/wheels/...-black-wheels/
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:11 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridered4life250 View Post
When you guys say +3, do you mean these? I know HPI runs +4.5, and I think (and am probably wrong) but losi runs +0. The rims for the Losi dont say anything about an offset so thats why im assuming losi runs +0
So are the rims below +3+3=+6?
http://www.prolineracing.com/wheels/...-black-wheels/
The stock AE KMC wheels are zero degree offset (same wheels as the hex SC10). The Proline wheels shown there are +3mm offset per wheel to make the truck wider by 6mm. DeRacing and Jconcepts also make +3mm wheels.

Last edited by islandscott; 05-29-2015 at 09:14 AM.
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:34 AM   #14
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Can't wait for this truck!
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:42 AM   #15
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okay if that is the case, then why does anyone care if the truck comes designed for +0 or +3. If it comes as +0, and you have all +3 rims, thats a good thing...
i dont see what the issue is.
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