Team Associated SC5M Thread
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#1591
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
he has custom arms and other parts. BK's cars/trucks are never like the kits. I was looking at his truck and man, it is way off book. He makes his own sway bars from scratch. honestly man, I am not sure how much a setup sheet of his would help. He also adds a lot of brass everywhere.
#1592
im thinking of running the b6 laydown transmission and cutting my own truck shock tower ..just looks like a cleaner setup..looking forward to the parts coming out
#1593
#1595
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
#1596
I personally didn't want an aftermarket laydown ($$$) and was waiting patiently.
At this point I will be buying a laydown transmission for my B6D (when it arrives) so will have one in hand anyway and will be able to determine if it fits.
On the other hand, people are offloading B5M's like crazy so maybe a full buggy with a laydown will be available cheap-ish. Waiting game I guess.
#1597
Does anyone know of a manufacture of cut gears for the SC5M other than CB Custom Gears? I have tried several times to contact CB with no success.
#1598
Speedy's Racing Parts.
#1599
looking at the parts closely online it looks like the b6 laydown will fit right in..except for drilling a few holes and cutting a new tower
#1600
Thanks Zeak!
#1601
Tech Addict
Front is kit setup.
Rear shock oil 30wt
Rear springs green. These are really soft so I ended up using 9mm spring perches.
Brass D mount.
3.5 rear toe.
5gm xtra weight added at each rear block.
Alloy rear hubs.
Alloy front hubs and castor blocks. (Front hubs by integy , very nice takes care of the bearing slop issue).
The added weight was the biggest single improvement I have seen.
Remove all spacers from inner rear camber links to raise roll centre. Do this one at a time and try it out. Roll centre changes made a real difference too.
I run AKA gridiron rear tires. Fronts don't seem to make much difference on my track. Fine pin style tires seem the go to design for our track.
Rear shock oil 30wt
Rear springs green. These are really soft so I ended up using 9mm spring perches.
Brass D mount.
3.5 rear toe.
5gm xtra weight added at each rear block.
Alloy rear hubs.
Alloy front hubs and castor blocks. (Front hubs by integy , very nice takes care of the bearing slop issue).
The added weight was the biggest single improvement I have seen.
Remove all spacers from inner rear camber links to raise roll centre. Do this one at a time and try it out. Roll centre changes made a real difference too.
I run AKA gridiron rear tires. Fronts don't seem to make much difference on my track. Fine pin style tires seem the go to design for our track.
Front is kit Setup:
Did the rear shocks for 30wt and green spring
Added 50(f*******)grams at the rear bumper (no brass stuff, just pure old weight)
went to bead locs in the rear
Still nowhere near to where I want to be. Its driveable but if you just think of accelerating two fast, you spin. On the other hand, If you go too fast into a corner the car (hard to descrive) just nose dives into the corner, the rear gets loose and spin.
Next step will be 35wt and grey spring in front, adding a gear diff with 5k oil. Hopefully that will help a bit. If still nothing I will have a look at your other mentioned stuff like roll center.
(For comparison: I've tried my B5M on the same track 32.5 front/27.5 rear (from my B5R) and added 25g in the rear - was perfectly driveable and really fast )
#1602
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Ive run my SC5M on loose conditions and Ive found it very driveable. I run the Brass D block and with a shorty battery, the weight distribution is similar to my Sc10 but the handling is much more responsive.
The SC5m is much better with grey front springs and going up in front oil. It also needs the ball diff to be run much tighter than in a buggy. If you run it loose, it turns in too hard and diffs out on exit.
Ive adapted a front sway bar to my truck (JConcepts SC10 bar) and use a standard B5M rear bar and this also makes a big difference to stability in high speed sweeping corners.
Here is my setup sheet from 2 weeks ago (note that I was using 4mm trail not 2mm trail - mistake on the sheet).
Ray
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...eilor20160507/
The SC5m is much better with grey front springs and going up in front oil. It also needs the ball diff to be run much tighter than in a buggy. If you run it loose, it turns in too hard and diffs out on exit.
Ive adapted a front sway bar to my truck (JConcepts SC10 bar) and use a standard B5M rear bar and this also makes a big difference to stability in high speed sweeping corners.
Here is my setup sheet from 2 weeks ago (note that I was using 4mm trail not 2mm trail - mistake on the sheet).
Ray
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...eilor20160507/
Had the first test with little change:
Front is kit Setup:
Did the rear shocks for 30wt and green spring
Added 50(f*******)grams at the rear bumper (no brass stuff, just pure old weight)
went to bead locs in the rear
Still nowhere near to where I want to be. Its driveable but if you just think of accelerating two fast, you spin. On the other hand, If you go too fast into a corner the car (hard to descrive) just nose dives into the corner, the rear gets loose and spin.
Next step will be 35wt and grey spring in front, adding a gear diff with 5k oil. Hopefully that will help a bit. If still nothing I will have a look at your other mentioned stuff like roll center.
(For comparison: I've tried my B5M on the same track 32.5 front/27.5 rear (from my B5R) and added 25g in the rear - was perfectly driveable and really fast )
Front is kit Setup:
Did the rear shocks for 30wt and green spring
Added 50(f*******)grams at the rear bumper (no brass stuff, just pure old weight)
went to bead locs in the rear
Still nowhere near to where I want to be. Its driveable but if you just think of accelerating two fast, you spin. On the other hand, If you go too fast into a corner the car (hard to descrive) just nose dives into the corner, the rear gets loose and spin.
Next step will be 35wt and grey spring in front, adding a gear diff with 5k oil. Hopefully that will help a bit. If still nothing I will have a look at your other mentioned stuff like roll center.
(For comparison: I've tried my B5M on the same track 32.5 front/27.5 rear (from my B5R) and added 25g in the rear - was perfectly driveable and really fast )
#1603
I might borrow your front setup to try. Just looking at the vic finals our track is much dustier and rutted from 1/8 scale nitro racing. I do run my ball diff real tight too.
EDIT... Ray, do you find the rear sway bars usefull even when quite hardpacked and dry and dusty?
EDIT... Ray, do you find the rear sway bars usefull even when quite hardpacked and dry and dusty?
Last edited by loopedeloop; 05-23-2016 at 01:07 AM.
#1604
Tech Addict
Ive run my SC5M on loose conditions and Ive found it very driveable. I run the Brass D block and with a shorty battery, the weight distribution is similar to my Sc10 but the handling is much more responsive.
The SC5m is much better with grey front springs and going up in front oil. It also needs the ball diff to be run much tighter than in a buggy. If you run it loose, it turns in too hard and diffs out on exit.
Ive adapted a front sway bar to my truck (JConcepts SC10 bar) and use a standard B5M rear bar and this also makes a big difference to stability in high speed sweeping corners.
Here is my setup sheet from 2 weeks ago (note that I was using 4mm trail not 2mm trail - mistake on the sheet).
Ray
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...eilor20160507/
The SC5m is much better with grey front springs and going up in front oil. It also needs the ball diff to be run much tighter than in a buggy. If you run it loose, it turns in too hard and diffs out on exit.
Ive adapted a front sway bar to my truck (JConcepts SC10 bar) and use a standard B5M rear bar and this also makes a big difference to stability in high speed sweeping corners.
Here is my setup sheet from 2 weeks ago (note that I was using 4mm trail not 2mm trail - mistake on the sheet).
Ray
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...eilor20160507/
Would you recomment the front sway bar? I think I might tighten the Diff. It SHOULD be way to loose, cause I ran on Carpet the first time. That may be a forgotten issue
#1605
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
I might borrow your front setup to try. Just looking at the vic finals our track is much dustier and rutted from 1/8 scale nitro racing. I do run my ball diff real tight too.
EDIT... Ray, do you find the rear sway bars usefull even when quite hardpacked and dry and dusty?
EDIT... Ray, do you find the rear sway bars usefull even when quite hardpacked and dry and dusty?
The grey front springs and 37.5wt oil make a very big difference to driveability.
The front sway bar is more important than the rear - running a rear sway bar only will reduce rear traction on a dusty surface. Running the diff too loose makes an SCT feel terrible in my experience.