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Old 02-28-2016, 08:16 PM   #1411
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I finally put the brass c plate on the back, but I'm still running the plastic do plate. Is it worth upgrading the d plate
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:11 PM   #1412
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What are your shock setups for stock sct? Oil, springs, pistons, ride height....
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:12 PM   #1413
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Originally Posted by cbass722 View Post
I finally put the brass c plate on the back, but I'm still running the plastic do plate. Is it worth upgrading the d plate
I run plastic C and D mount on mine...but I'm running stock class and looking for the lightest overall weight
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Old 03-05-2016, 12:36 PM   #1414
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Default Servo

Anyone using the Futaba s9551 servo? I have a spare from my oval cars. Was wondering if it will work/last in the SC5m? Or if I am better off buying something else?
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Old 03-08-2016, 11:25 AM   #1415
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Originally Posted by Lvxlr8n View Post
Anyone using the Futaba s9551 servo? I have a spare from my oval cars. Was wondering if it will work/last in the SC5m? Or if I am better off buying something else?
I've used that servo in buggies, but the torque might be a bit on the weak side for the larger truck tires (122 oz-in @ 6.0V).

I like to run a stronger servo in SCT because sometimes you can use your steering throw to get out of wrecks / break loose from a pipe during a race.

Last edited by WRXnItUp; 03-09-2016 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 03-08-2016, 08:42 PM   #1416
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
The SC5M is lighter than the other MM trucks. IT wouldn't take much to get it to the legal weight minimum. Mine is relatively close with a short pack and it must be close to box weight. Sure I have ti turnbuckles and screws, slipper eliminator, and a CF strap....I also have a brass C mount and MIP 3 gear.
I noticed you mentioned the slipper eliminator. Are you running yours in a stock class? I was told not to run the eliminator in my 2wd mod buggy but, I put it in my ST and am very happy with that setup.
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:03 AM   #1417
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Default Picking up a sc5m used

I am picking up a sc5m next week (2 race used roller). I plan on using it for 2wd mod class. It was never run without a chassis protector and only used for two race days. I already has some of the upgrades that I have read about over the last 95 pages:

3 gear tranny
Al rear hubs
Light weight gears
Ceramic ball/diff
Ti turnbuckles

Not sure about brass weights/parts...
Not sure about shock springs...

My local track is usually low-medium traction dirt/clay composition. Some times (like right now), we get a good groove built up and traction is pretty good in the groove. I have both shorties and square packs to try out and see which work best.

From what I am reading; these are some of the other things I need to look for on the buy or do myself afterwards:
Grey front trucks springs... Are there any other parts needed for this mod other than the springs?
Front shock oil @ 37.5...maybe 40
Rear shock oil @ 32.5
White springs in rear
Brass C plate
6mm and 8.5mm hexes... Do I need different axles to make this modification?

Am I overlooking anything else?

Thanks in advance

Patt
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:17 AM   #1418
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Originally Posted by freezeframe007 View Post
I noticed you mentioned the slipper eliminator. Are you running yours in a stock class? I was told not to run the eliminator in my 2wd mod buggy but, I put it in my ST and am very happy with that setup.
Yes. Anytime I run stock I use a slipper eliminator. Its probably the best bang for your buck mod that you can make. I run it in all my 2wd cars. The Schelle slipper is good too but unless your on ice you're going to pretty much lock your slipper anyway with a 17.5.

If you're on lower grip surfaces the 4 gear trans is a great tuning tool. I run one during the winter when its cold and we run our track wet.
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Old 03-11-2016, 01:21 PM   #1419
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I run one during the winter when its cold and we run our track wet.
Antelope Valley, CA?

cold?

What?
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Old 03-11-2016, 05:14 PM   #1420
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Just figured I'd throw in my .50 opinion here after reading a bunch of these posts.

Guys.....Girls.....this truck is fast. Straight out of the box fast. No blue parts are needed for this truck to set new personal best lap times. I started with the kit set up- 100%. I then proceeded to best my best SC10 lap time by almost a second. Seriously. I noticed and felt that the inside front tire was compressing too much on high speed corner exits so I installed the Grey truck springs in the front. It didn't get faster but it was easier to drive. Some of these part lists are crazy. You don't need any of it to drive this thing to the front. For some of you guys that just bought it, put it together right, then try driving it. I was blown away by how good this thing is. Running multiple classes is easier too. Transitioning from my 5M to my T5 to this is seamless.

No harm no foul I was just getting the impression that some of you were thinking you needed those lists to be competitive with this truck. You don't. Spend your initial money on wheels and tires. Carry on. AR
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Old 03-11-2016, 05:37 PM   #1421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freezeframe007 View Post
I am picking up a sc5m next week (2 race used roller). I plan on using it for 2wd mod class. It was never run without a chassis protector and only used for two race days. I already has some of the upgrades that I have read about over the last 95 pages:

3 gear tranny
Al rear hubs
Light weight gears
Ceramic ball/diff
Ti turnbuckles

Not sure about brass weights/parts...
Not sure about shock springs...

My local track is usually low-medium traction dirt/clay composition. Some times (like right now), we get a good groove built up and traction is pretty good in the groove. I have both shorties and square packs to try out and see which work best.

From what I am reading; these are some of the other things I need to look for on the buy or do myself afterwards:
Grey front trucks springs... Are there any other parts needed for this mod other than the springs?
Front shock oil @ 37.5...maybe 40
Rear shock oil @ 32.5
White springs in rear
Brass C plate
6mm and 8.5mm hexes... Do I need different axles to make this modification?

Am I overlooking anything else?

Thanks in advance

Patt
Just make sure you go through the truck. I bought mine used and found some disturbing discrepancies in the build. There were loose spacers and c clips in the shocks and the diff was built with black grease instead of the silicone diff lube.

I have to say that I am having way more fun with this truck than I ever expected.
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Old 03-11-2016, 05:49 PM   #1422
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"I bought mine used and found some disturbing discrepancies in the build."

That's always awesome isn't it? I buy, build and pass on lot's of Ebay rollers and wrecks....the stories....ha!

One thing I've noticed with my S5 is that the ball diff requires more attention than my other 5M vehicles. Maybe it's just mine but after about 3 batteries I start to notice a change in the corners. So I bring it in and every time the diff needs to be tightened and then loosened again 1/8. I think it's a fluke so this truck may just get a BFAST rebuild. Who knows, maybe I messed something up scuffing the rings at 4am one night.....
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Old 03-11-2016, 06:11 PM   #1423
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Originally Posted by celt View Post
Antelope Valley, CA?

cold?

What?
High desert 60 miles north of LA. We have 4 seasons. Freezing winters and 100 degree fall temps. Its nuts. We've seen temp changes of 50 degrees in a day!
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Old 03-15-2016, 04:41 AM   #1424
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Anyone running the Light .030 bodies? I'm looking for opinions on how they are holding up compared to a standard thickness body.
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Old 03-15-2016, 05:28 AM   #1425
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Default slipper eliminator

Gents,

Looking to try a slipper eliminator with the SC5m, but concerned about the increased load on differential gears. A 2WD buggy concerns me less with it's smaller wheels and lighter weight.

Any comments on problems or success?
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