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Old 11-26-2015, 08:37 PM   #1126
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Front 35 wt grey spring 3 limiters 1.5 piston
Rear 30 wt white spring 1 limiter 1.6 piston
Rear shocks in on tower middle on arms
Front is kit
1mm washer front
3 mm washers rear
Kit link locations front and rear
3 gear trans
Shorty with big pad in front
Truck is great
Will be trying 3x1.4 30 wt in the rear next outing but other wise i can put power down where i need it on mc primes
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Old 11-28-2015, 04:30 AM   #1127
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Has anyone run theirs on turf yet?
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Old 11-29-2015, 04:14 PM   #1128
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Is there a way to run conventional long battery? I want to build us a sc5m but I have four good batteries I want to use.

Thanks
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Old 11-29-2015, 05:58 PM   #1129
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okay heres what I got going on. maybe you guys can give me some input. rear of the truck is really squirrely. likes to swing out real easy going into corners off power, landing from jumps, sometimes half way down the straight. the truck is really touchy like always on the edge of breaking loose. tracks I run on are indoors medium grip clay. running 13.5 blinky. heres my setup

front
grey springs, 32.5wt oil 1.6 2 hole
hard arms
aka chainlinks clay compound
30mm ride height
factory shock and camber link posititions

rear
green springs, 30wt oil 1.6 2 hole
dirt webs gold compound
middle shock hole on tower
outer shock hole an a arm
3mm spacers on camber link, alum hubs, long camber link
27mm ride height
3 gear trans
brass c
shorty battery all the way back
diff is smooth

any help would be appreciated.

Last edited by walter white; 11-29-2015 at 06:00 PM. Reason: update
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Old 11-29-2015, 06:55 PM   #1130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walter white View Post
okay heres what I got going on. maybe you guys can give me some input. rear of the truck is really squirrely. likes to swing out real easy going into corners off power, landing from jumps, sometimes half way down the straight. the truck is really touchy like always on the edge of breaking loose. tracks I run on are indoors medium grip clay. running 13.5 blinky. heres my setup

front
grey springs, 32.5wt oil 1.6 2 hole
hard arms
aka chainlinks clay compound
30mm ride height
factory shock and camber link posititions

rear
green springs, 30wt oil 1.6 2 hole
dirt webs gold compound
middle shock hole on tower
outer shock hole an a arm
3mm spacers on camber link, alum hubs, long camber link
27mm ride height
3 gear trans
brass c
shorty battery all the way back
diff is smooth

any help would be appreciated.
Everything looks good, but most people are using front oil as high as 37.5 to 40. You're probably breaking loose in turns because you have too much weight transfer to the front and need to stiffen it up.
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Old 11-29-2015, 08:57 PM   #1131
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Originally Posted by corr915 View Post
Is there a way to run conventional long battery? I want to build us a sc5m but I have four good batteries I want to use.

Thanks
It's a about inline shorty, but a SC5M has the space to use a full size inline.

http://www.rcten.com/threads/sc5m-inline.16562/
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Old 11-29-2015, 10:15 PM   #1132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walter white View Post
okay heres what I got going on. maybe you guys can give me some input. rear of the truck is really squirrely. likes to swing out real easy going into corners off power, landing from jumps, sometimes half way down the straight. the truck is really touchy like always on the edge of breaking loose. tracks I run on are indoors medium grip clay. running 13.5 blinky. heres my setup

any help would be appreciated.
A reason you are running different tires front and back? If one or the other is to loose or hooked up hard to tell since tires play a big part.

Also may want to try the screw#31520 that goes into caster block.

Check toe and camber just to make sure nothing got weird. Maybe square pack to see if it calms it down. Don't know if any will help, good luck.
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Old 11-29-2015, 11:45 PM   #1133
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Just finished second SC5 build, this one for me. Did it different this time. I built Diff, Shocks and turnbuckles and set to the side. Then started on page one, was fun. Those three things always feel feel like a side bar until I get back to the car, changed it up for me. Build was great, nothing missing, turnbuckles perfect. Started with a three gear and a bunch of Schelle internals, TI screws, studs and turnbuckles, X rings, FT bearings and JC front axles. 17.5 stocker, gluing dirt webs tires tomorrow.
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Old 11-30-2015, 03:39 AM   #1134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walter white View Post
okay heres what I got going on. maybe you guys can give me some input. rear of the truck is really squirrely. likes to swing out real easy going into corners off power, landing from jumps, sometimes half way down the straight. the truck is really touchy like always on the edge of breaking loose. tracks I run on are indoors medium grip clay. running 13.5 blinky. heres my setup

front
grey springs, 32.5wt oil 1.6 2 hole
hard arms
aka chainlinks clay compound
30mm ride height
factory shock and camber link posititions

rear
green springs, 30wt oil 1.6 2 hole
dirt webs gold compound
middle shock hole on tower
outer shock hole an a arm
3mm spacers on camber link, alum hubs, long camber link
27mm ride height
3 gear trans
brass c
shorty battery all the way back
diff is smooth

any help would be appreciated.
There's a few things off with this setup. For a baseline, check Caveleris setup from the "off road shootout" , on AEs website.
First off you need 1.5 pistons up front.
I've tryed green springs in the rear and hated them.
The setups I've seen on sponsored trucks, have been really close to stock except minor roll center and ride height changes. Alot are adding weight in the Batt tray. I just run a 5800mah square pack.
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:38 AM   #1135
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I'm going to make a cyber Monday purchase and have a few questions that I couldn't find using the search. For 3 gear conversion, Do I only need the 3 gear box, motor plate & cover?

What is the correct width for alum rear hexes?
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:21 AM   #1136
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Originally Posted by Bartman42 View Post
I'm going to make a cyber Monday purchase and have a few questions that I couldn't find using the search. For 3 gear conversion, Do I only need the 3 gear box, motor plate & cover?

What is the correct width for alum rear hexes?
Correct, that's all you need for the 3 gear. Hexes are 6mm front and 8.5 rear.
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:31 AM   #1137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfrninja View Post
There's a few things off with this setup. For a baseline, check Caveleris setup from the "off road shootout" , on AEs website.
First off you need 1.5 pistons up front.
I've tryed green springs in the rear and hated them.
The setups I've seen on sponsored trucks, have been really close to stock except minor roll center and ride height changes. Alot are adding weight in the Batt tray. I just run a 5800mah square pack.
rear bottom shock > middle and more rear ride height should help

Cav's "shootout" setup, is a GREAT base setup. Built mine manual stock after one race changed to "shootout". As I live in FL (outdoor temps 80 to 100), upped the shock oil to 35 front and 32.5 rear. Shorty was a bit *twitchy, so the brick is what I run now.

*twitchy <<< OVER micro manage straight line, to keep it straight.

Tires

sealed indoor clay
jconcepts bar codes (gold ghosted) front/rear

blue groove outdoor clay
vp-pro turbo trax (super soft 90% gone) front and jconcepts double dee's (blue 50% gone) rear
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:48 AM   #1138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walter white View Post
okay heres what I got going on. maybe you guys can give me some input. rear of the truck is really squirrely. likes to swing out real easy going into corners off power, landing from jumps, sometimes half way down the straight. the truck is really touchy like always on the edge of breaking loose. tracks I run on are indoors medium grip clay. running 13.5 blinky. heres my setup

front
grey springs, 32.5wt oil 1.6 2 hole
hard arms
aka chainlinks clay compound
30mm ride height
factory shock and camber link posititions

rear
green springs, 30wt oil 1.6 2 hole
dirt webs gold compound
middle shock hole on tower
outer shock hole an a arm
3mm spacers on camber link, alum hubs, long camber link
27mm ride height
3 gear trans
brass c
shorty battery all the way back
diff is smooth

any help would be appreciated.
Ditch the 3 gear. I am about to do it even in my 17.5 car.
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:55 AM   #1139
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Originally Posted by aeRayls View Post
Correct, that's all you need for the 3 gear. Hexes are 6mm front and 8.5 rear.
Thank you..
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:58 AM   #1140
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Originally Posted by aeRayls View Post
Correct, that's all you need for the 3 gear. Hexes are 6mm front and 8.5 rear.
I had to use diff shims on both of mt 3 gear transmissions. I you look at the B5M Factory Lite instruction manual for the 3 gear tranny it shows the diff shims being installed.
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