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Old 09-09-2015, 09:08 AM   #811
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PS here's how she looks:
pics look dark, but it's actually Tamiya Brilliant Blue and Fluorescent Red (bright!!!)


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Old 09-10-2015, 08:00 AM   #812
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Is anyone trying to save weight on this truck? I see people are adding the brass C or D plates to add weight to the rear of the truck. I bought titanium turnbuckles but that's it. I was going to add titanium screws and ball studs but if not needed I'll save my money.
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:23 AM   #813
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I have the same question as above. Picking up my SC5m today being built at OCRC. Did not include any brass. Was wondering if I should just pick up a brass plate at a art/craft shop and just tape it somewhere as needed (outdoor loose tracks, etc.). Any tips on the brass weights on both high grip and med grip tracks would be very helpful. thx
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:54 AM   #814
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Why would you lighten it for mod?
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:59 AM   #815
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Why would you lighten it for mod?
Hes asking a question to see what everyone has been doing?
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Old 09-10-2015, 11:06 AM   #816
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Hes asking a question to see what everyone has been doing?
no reason to lighten it up for mod. Maybe the brass c-block if you need more rear bite. And maybe the 3 gear option for ocrc for jumping and breaking.
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Old 09-10-2015, 11:11 AM   #817
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The SC5M is lighter than the other MM trucks. IT wouldn't take much to get it to the legal weight minimum. Mine is relatively close with a short pack and it must be close to box weight. Sure I have ti turnbuckles and screws, slipper eliminator, and a CF strap....I also have a brass C mount and MIP 3 gear.
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Old 09-10-2015, 11:47 AM   #818
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Thanks. I have a 3 gear being put into, that's it. No need to lighten it for mod myself. But, is there any reason to make it heavier, and under which circumstances? Sometimes I run with my buddy in Camarillo at an outdoor med grip track. Just wondering if I shoulld maybe just by some weights that I can add/take off as I see fit depending on conditions. I have no point of reference as to whether this is necessary with mod. thx
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Old 09-10-2015, 01:25 PM   #819
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You're talking about the Road Runners tracK? Great place! I think the box setup with a stiffer front spring will be sufficient. Traction there is pretty good. If you're running the 3 gear using a square pack would/should be sufficient. That'll put you 60-80 grams over weight which is not bad. The other 2 options are a brass C block and a short pack. Also, SMC makes these cool brass spacers in 2mm increments that go in place of battery foams. I haven't tried them yet but it seems like an effective way to put weight exactly where you want it w/o having to run a suitcase for a battery.
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Old 09-10-2015, 03:51 PM   #820
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Any good sugar track set ups? Suggestions?
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Old 09-10-2015, 05:18 PM   #821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Thanks. I have a 3 gear being put into, that's it. No need to lighten it for mod myself. But, is there any reason to make it heavier, and under which circumstances? Sometimes I run with my buddy in Camarillo at an outdoor med grip track. Just wondering if I shoulld maybe just by some weights that I can add/take off as I see fit depending on conditions. I have no point of reference as to whether this is necessary with mod. thx
If your track follows are in any way smiles on ROAR rules for weight, I bet your truck box stock, is under weight;

ROAR weight limit 2098grams
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Old 09-10-2015, 05:19 PM   #822
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Any good sugar track set ups? Suggestions?
If I could get the stiffer front springs that would be one thing that I'd recommend. I try to run all my cars the same. The box set up is a decent starting point. From there I only changed a few things. In the front I run 2mm under the ballstud, 0mm on the rack and 37.5 or 40 in the shocks. In the rear I run the link in the second longest position on the aluminum hubs, the ballstud mount -2, 1mm under the outside and inside ballstuds, and 35 or 37.5 in the rear shocks. I only ran the 40wt oil to accommodate the soft front springs and it worked well enough until I switched to Kyosho Yellows (I'm remembering now.....). Kyosho orange sc fronts might be even better.

I need to point out that I run the Kashima coated Fox shocks with the new style shafts. There's not a large selection of pistons so I run the 1.6s in the front and the 3 hole 1.4s in the rear. The truck and SC are opposite of the buggy and require more pack in front.

Last, D4 1s 17.5 w/52 degrees of timing, geared 75/24 with a slipper eliminator (I think its 24, could be 25),and a big ass square pack. I just bought a Protek 100c 4900 square in an effort to shed a few grams and get myself closer to weight while still having a little extra battery capacity since the SC is porkier than my other cars. The current 5800 squares I have weigh a ton.
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Old 09-10-2015, 07:34 PM   #823
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
You're talking about the Road Runners tracK? Great place! I think the box setup with a stiffer front spring will be sufficient. Traction there is pretty good. If you're running the 3 gear using a square pack would/should be sufficient. That'll put you 60-80 grams over weight which is not bad. The other 2 options are a brass C block and a short pack. Also, SMC makes these cool brass spacers in 2mm increments that go in place of battery foams. I haven't tried them yet but it seems like an effective way to put weight exactly where you want it w/o having to run a suitcase for a battery.

Thanks. Will be running 3 gear with a shorty. I picked up my built SC5m today that was built for me at the track. I'm wondering what all this stuff the guy that built my SC5M with accomplishes running mod. Initially, I included the kit and and all parts for the 3 gear box. Mentioned I wanted to run my RSX and 7.5T Orion with the SC5M. Let gentlemen know if he saw a few small upgrades to include. This gets expensive fast. Can't read the receipt so well but this is what was included on top of the kit, electronics, 3 gear.

TBM Fin Titanium Turnbuckles: $37.50
Slipper Pads: $6.99
V2 Vented Slipper: $17.99
B5 Aluminum D Arm: $18.99
B5M Milled Motor mount: $15.99
T5 Rear Clamping Hex: $11.00
FT Low Friction (receipt cuts off?) $9.99
B5 Alum C Mount: $17.99

TTL: $126.45

Question: Does any of the above really help in running mod 2wd SCT? thx
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Old 09-10-2015, 07:37 PM   #824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Thanks. Will be running 3 gear with a shorty. I picked up my built SC5m today that was built for me at the track. I'm wondering what all this stuff the guy that built my SC5M with accomplishes running mod. Initially, I included the kit and and all parts for the 3 gear box. Mentioned I wanted to run my RSX and 7.5T Orion with the SC5M. Let gentlemen know if he saw a few small upgrades to include. This gets expensive fast. Can't read the receipt so well but this is what was included on top of the kit, electronics, 3 gear.

TBM Fin Titanium Turnbuckles: $37.50
Slipper Pads: $6.99
V2 Vented Slipper: $17.99
B5 Aluminum D Arm: $18.99
B5M Milled Motor mount: $15.99
T5 Rear Clamping Hex: $11.00
FT Low Friction (receipt cuts off?) $9.99
B5 Alum C Mount: $17.99

TTL: $126.45

Question: Does any of the above really help in running mod 2wd SCT? thx
that stuff is fine. I would have gotten the Avid slipper over the vented AE stuff, but otherwise looks fine. Are the Alum C and mounts already on the truck? Because you said b5 and not b5m. just curious
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Old 09-10-2015, 08:05 PM   #825
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They were b5M. Are black. The one on the back near the bumper is Schelle with some sort of black graphite looking stuff. Hoping this stuff is just for durability. Don't need the weight loss of the turnbuckles, so wasnt expecting to spend there... In any event, what does the vented slipper do? Also, aren't many of these little upgrades for stock?
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