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Old 08-31-2015, 07:37 AM   #751
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I dont have the issue with nose down, unless I tap the brakes or scrub. The truck is very sensitive to braking in the air. After, 2-3 laps , I was flat everywhere, including our rhythm sections. Just stay in a the gas a little. enough that drag braking does not occur.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:00 AM   #752
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Default Nose down

I was thinking about selling my tekno sct410.3 because I was sick of holding the gas in the air at small jumps on tight tracks. Does anyone know if this sensitivity is of the same magnitude on the sc5m?


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I dont have the issue with nose down, unless I tap the brakes or scrub. The truck is very sensitive to braking in the air. After, 2-3 laps , I was flat everywhere, including our rhythm sections. Just stay in a the gas a little. enough that drag braking does not occur.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:32 AM   #753
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I actually struggled with mine this weekend a bit. I moved back to our higher grip outdoor track (probably still med/high to most of you). On the higher grip, the truck felt better with a square battery all the way back as opposed to a shorty. Ended up flipping the rear camber link mount back over to the -2mm position with 2mm of washer under the ball stud. Tried with zero washers but it was too easy to lose the rear end in our sweeper at the end of the straight. Also, moved the rear hubs to the forward position and moved the rear upper shock mounting position to the inside. Switched the front springs out for orange with the 12mm shock bottom in front. Truck still wanted to swap ends suddenly under braking and the rear end would also snap free in the sweeper from time to time as well. I also experienced the nose down issue that some have mentioned but it didn't do it all the time. The folks that I had drive it after racing was done mentioned that it was a bit of a handful in the air. I think with the changes I made after racing was done (TQed but only got third in the main) I probably could have won the race but it still isn't where I want it to be. Comments welcome....
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:50 AM   #754
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I was told not to put the brass D mount on after purchasing.

Anyone know the advantages and disadvantages to the brass mount?
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:52 AM   #755
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I was told not to put the brass D mount on after purchasing.

Anyone know the advantages and disadvantages to the brass mount?
the further back you put the brass on the truck, makes it more like a rear motor. pendulum starts to come back. Most guys here in the US run the Brass C, at most.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:58 AM   #756
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Quote:
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I dont have the issue with nose down, unless I tap the brakes or scrub. The truck is very sensitive to braking in the air. After, 2-3 laps , I was flat everywhere, including our rhythm sections. Just stay in a the gas a little. enough that drag braking does not occur.
Just built mine, it is stock except for 27.5 shock oil in the back. It jumps flat everywhere, although does nose down, off power rolling over the last jump of triples. I may try sc10 springs, stiffer front and softer rear. For now I will just drive it until something breaks; )
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Old 08-31-2015, 09:05 AM   #757
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Just built mine, it is stock except for 27.5 shock oil in the back. It jumps flat everywhere, although does nose down, off power rolling over the last jump of triples. I may try sc10 springs, stiffer front and softer rear. For now I will just drive it until something breaks; )
I only nose down when I try to scrub. I hit the brakes once in the air, and I did a front flip....this was with brakes at 60%. This truck is very sensitive to scrubbing and braking, imo. Maybe a 3 gear would help with braking in the air.
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:39 PM   #758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I only nose down when I try to scrub. I hit the brakes once in the air, and I did a front flip....this was with brakes at 60%. This truck is very sensitive to scrubbing and braking, imo. Maybe a 3 gear would help with braking in the air.
Gonna test again with the 3 gear and see. But the front diving isn't that big of a problem as I can correct it on take off or in the air, just would prefer if the truck flies more level, as I think the deceleration of the 4 gear makes it pitch more in the air.
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:42 PM   #759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
I was thinking about selling my tekno sct410.3 because I was sick of holding the gas in the air at small jumps on tight tracks. Does anyone know if this sensitivity is of the same magnitude on the sc5m?
And no, the tekno is 4wd, and more sensitive in the air. Also its more front heavy, especially if you use drag brake, it will make it worse. The SC5m is 2wd and its not that sensitive at all. Its only a slight nose pitch down on big jumps.
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:42 PM   #760
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the further back you put the brass on the truck, makes it more like a rear motor. pendulum starts to come back. Most guys here in the US run the Brass C, at most.

Thank you!
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Old 08-31-2015, 02:49 PM   #761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I only nose down when I try to scrub. I hit the brakes once in the air, and I did a front flip....this was with brakes at 60%. This truck is very sensitive to scrubbing and braking, imo. Maybe a 3 gear would help with braking in the air.
Should be running a 3 gear at SRS anyway right? The 3 gear helped a lot on both my b5m and t5m. Still turned the brakes down to 40% with a 13.5 on the T5m.
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Old 08-31-2015, 03:12 PM   #762
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Should be running a 3 gear at SRS anyway right? The 3 gear helped a lot on both my b5m and t5m. Still turned the brakes down to 40% with a 13.5 on the T5m.
maybe, I dont know. I run 3 gear in my b5m. And probably will in the SC soon. I try not to make a lot of changes until I get the feel of a new car/truck.
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Old 08-31-2015, 04:06 PM   #763
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Looking forward to picking up the SC5M that I won in a local track raffle. It will replace the SC10GT-E that I've been racing the past 2-3 years.

The "old" racers will remember this in any stock brush 27 turn class. CREEP, set your radio so the RC will creep forward to remove some drag brake. This assists in keeping the nose up in a jump.

Early pictures of SC10GT-E

http://www.t3t4webservice.com/SC10_GT2_e.html
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:59 PM   #764
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word of warning--
6mm hexes plus 71013 doesn't work with all wheels. Wheel nut hits shoulder of axle and stops before it's snug against the wheel. 7mm hex (watch with +3 wheels ) or a spacer/shim between the wheel/nut, or open up the back of your front nuts to fit over the shoulder if you keep the 6mm hex.
AE wheel is the biggest gap:

washer between nut and wheel:
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Old 09-02-2015, 11:08 AM   #765
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The SC5m was an almost perfect build. One rear arm has a fair bit of play, so I'll shim that, but everything else was great. I also ended up with a couple of extra bearings, I think for the old style top shaft.

The first 5 series I've had without tight ball cups. They are perfect without any pinching or polishing required.
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