Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Yeah, I need a small straight edge. 4 inches should be all she needs. Might see if lowes has anything

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

So I order this. Flexible and has a cork backing. The backing should keep the body from getting scratched up and help keep it from sliding around. You can cut it shorter is 6in is too much.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Slanman

I've decided I don't really care if my sct body is cut out perfectly. It's gonna get messed up within one day anyways lol

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

lol, I cant do a crappy job on purpose....

Cb750CafeRacer

I'm with you .. I enjoy building it nice even if the 5yo wrecks the hell out of it

Slanman

I'm having a lot of tire rub underneath the body and on the edges of the wheel cutouts. Do I need to raise the body up, or just cut a little more?

DuckMan24

Hey guys, so today I'm trying to get all the electronics set into my truck and start wiring. Unfortunately I didn't realize that Associated wouldn't include a horn for a Reedy servo, so I'm waiting for that to arrive so I can run.

Anyway, I'm trying to set my slipper and I'm lost. I have to tighten the diff all the way down to get any sort of "tightness" when I try to turn the wheels. Is there something I'm overlooking possibly? I swore I built the diffs correctly. I followed the videos on the front page of this thread. What should I be looking for possibly being incorrect?

Also, my bellcrank is ever so slightly rubbing my servo. Is this normal? It seems really tight. I'm running a Reedy 1508.

Cb750CafeRacer

Between the manual and those YouTube videos you should have a good base for adjusting it.. if it were me I'd tear it down and start again to make sure everything is as it should be.

For the servo the kit came with these little spacers that look like little dog bones .. you may need to add some to get the servo back off the steering .. I'm using a savox 1258tg and didn't need them.i ended up cutting one in half and using it as washers for the front bumper screws which pulled through the bumper on our first practice session

DuckMan24

Alright. Guess I'll tear her down and start over.

And thank you. I'll add one more spacer. Any tips for getting that ball joint on for the steering link? Do it before I put the ballcrank on the truck?

Cb750CafeRacer

Looking now at mine I remember that with any spacers it rubbed .. without any it clears by the smallest amount ..

Without the servo in place I was able to snap mine on with ball link pliers.. needle nose or whatever should work too..

https://photos.app.goo.gl/O1mumbFsQw4wrlK83

DuckMan24

You're right. Just did it and took them out. The manual doesn't list them as an optional piece. Threw me off. didn't even realize there were 2 different sizes.

Big_Show

iTrader: (3)

I just put a Savox 1258 in my T5M and it has an aftermarket aluminium bell crank. Even with out any spacers I had to file the bell crank and ball stud off on a angle to keep it from rubbing on the servo.

denon

iTrader: (8)

Just building my Sc5m and notice it lists 11 and 11.5mm shock spacing for the front and rear respectively. Yet the picture does not look anywhere near this large. Is that the correct stock spacing? Also for the body mounts is there a stock hole to use?

Cb750CafeRacer

By shock spacing do you mean spring adjustment collars? Those measurements are way off, you'll want to set them based on ride height after you've got it all together with battery and body..

The body has some markings on it before you cut it out to indicate which holes fit but I think most people double check them before painting .. just set the clear body on and mark the outside with a sharpie on the holes you want .. after painting use the body reamer on those marks.

denon

iTrader: (8)

Thanks! So cut after painting? Thoughts on a good ride height tool?