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Old 02-03-2017, 02:23 AM   #2206
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I believe the 8.5mm is for the rear on the Sc5m, and run the wheels with +3 off set to get legal max width. On the front if you swap out axels use the 6.0mm, Correct me if I'm wrong guys.

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Old 02-03-2017, 05:40 AM   #2207
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I just looked at the setup sheets and looks like everyone does 8.5 with +3 wheels. I still run the plastic set from the kit with +3 wheels
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Old 02-03-2017, 08:45 AM   #2208
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+3 wheels are standard. No one runs anything else.


The SC5M you'll want the 6mm front hex and 8.5mm rear hex.
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Old 02-06-2017, 02:13 AM   #2209
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Ran my truck for the first time Saturday was happy overall with it, had the white springs all the way around 32.5 oil in all shocks and other than the shorty battery and 3 gear trans it was an out of the box setup. had plenty of steering going into the corners and coming out the rear wanted to wash out on me, did a couple adjustments to it per the guy next to me who was running same truck in stock and mod, and ended up taking 2nd and 3rd in the mains. His suggestions helped but still not what I was looking for. just wondered if I need to add any weight to it like I did in my T5M because I am running a shorty and not a square pack? Also during warm up laps for the Main in which I was qualified 7th jumped over a small jump that was basically just a bunny hop across a dip landed wen to turn and truck would not move, the damn rear plastic turn buckle mount on shock tower had broke, not sure why it was plastic in this kit and alum in the T5M kit but it will be replaced with Alum. before next race.
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Old 02-10-2017, 07:25 PM   #2210
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Anybody tried a stick pack forward location in this truck?
running on high traction clay indoor med/large track.
Just curious, i had my brick packs swell and go bad, so i modded the chassis to accept a stick which i have several of, and from my experience, this seems to be way too much weight to far forward. truck seems to drive straight and small corners aren't bad, but 180's and fast tight corners she wants to body roll and get way outta shape really fast.
i may be able to tune out with front springs/ susp setup, but i believe i wont have much travel left after having to go to a shorter and stiffer front spring(yellow) while trying to remain a lower ride height around 24-25 front 24 rear.
Please lmk if anybody has attempted this with success, otherwise ill probably go to a shorty rear mount.
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Old 02-11-2017, 04:38 AM   #2211
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Does anyone know if there is a plastic part that mounts in place of #91520 According to the manual it is an Aluminum part. an when I got my T5M it was Alum. And the reason I ask is because I recently acquired a SC5M in a even up trade for my T5M and the part in question was plastic and broke on a normal looking small jump and landing costing me 3rd or 4th place in the main, and I cannot find any plastic part that is for this kit just wondered if it may have been form something else.
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Old 02-11-2017, 05:53 AM   #2212
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I'm trying to get legal for a couple of events that I'm going to run. Anybody have any idea how I should gear a Fantom FR2 T Type 17.5? I have 2 trucks (indoor/outdoor). The outdoor truck is 78/28 and it seems slow......maybe I'm just too use to a 13.5? I dunno. I want to get the indoor truck right. Now that I think about the timing is probably just important. We tried timimg between 40-50 and gearing from 24 to 29. Ended up where we're at with 48-50 degrees of timing. The FR2 R I have in my buggy rips. My SC with the T type is frustrating me.
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:44 AM   #2213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braxamus View Post
Does anyone know if there is a plastic part that mounts in place of #91520 According to the manual it is an Aluminum part. an when I got my T5M it was Alum. And the reason I ask is because I recently acquired a SC5M in a even up trade for my T5M and the part in question was plastic and broke on a normal looking small jump and landing costing me 3rd or 4th place in the main, and I cannot find any plastic part that is for this kit just wondered if it may have been form something else.
To my knowledge the only time I've seen the rear ball stud mount in plastic was for the 1st version of the B5m. Both my T5m and sc5m came from the factory with an aluminum one. With the amount of force added with the length of arms and wheel size on a truck. I could never see the plastic ball stud mount holding up. Ball studs would pull out or even break the plastic.
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:47 AM   #2214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I'm trying to get legal for a couple of events that I'm going to run. Anybody have any idea how I should gear a Fantom FR2 T Type 17.5? I have 2 trucks (indoor/outdoor). The outdoor truck is 78/28 and it seems slow......maybe I'm just too use to a 13.5? I dunno. I want to get the indoor truck right. Now that I think about the timing is probably just important. We tried timimg between 40-50 and gearing from 24 to 29. Ended up where we're at with 48-50 degrees of timing. The FR2 R I have in my buggy rips. My SC with the T type is frustrating me.
Whats the temp of your motor when come off the track with that gearing and timing?
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Old 02-13-2017, 02:07 AM   #2215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbie Rc Guy View Post
To my knowledge the only time I've seen the rear ball stud mount in plastic was for the 1st version of the B5m. Both my T5m and sc5m came from the factory with an aluminum one. With the amount of force added with the length of arms and wheel size on a truck. I could never see the plastic ball stud mount holding up. Ball studs would pull out or even break the plastic.
That's probably where it came from then, cause it broke on a small jump and normal looking landing. I have a new alum. one on the way so thanks for the info as I have never seen it in plastic at all.
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Old 02-13-2017, 04:58 AM   #2216
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Default Sc5m chassis swap

I race on an indoor high grip track. I recently bought a sc5m roller with a laydown transmission. I just bought a 2nd sc5m roller because it was completely upgraded and i can sell my other and break even. Just wondering if i should keep the laydown transmission or stick with the standard 3 gear.
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Old 02-13-2017, 05:15 AM   #2217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Propchecku37 View Post
I believe the 8.5mm is for the rear on the Sc5m, and run the wheels with +3 off set to get legal max width. On the front if you swap out axels use the 6.0mm, Correct me if I'm wrong guys.
i run the 8.5 with +3 offset on mine.
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Old 02-13-2017, 05:16 AM   #2218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbie Rc Guy View Post
Whats the temp of your motor when come off the track with that gearing and timing?
my gearing on indoor is 75/24.
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Old 02-13-2017, 05:18 AM   #2219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paintphreak View Post
Anybody tried a stick pack forward location in this truck?
running on high traction clay indoor med/large track.
I'm running Turnigy Nano-Tech 2600mAh 2s Lipos. They are tiny, but i can put about 25-30 laps on them. They are priced very reasonably.
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Old 02-16-2017, 02:06 AM   #2220
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I would almost guess Associated is not the only one doing this but I kind f rubs me the wrong way and I just had to rant about it, but I just bought some new parts for my truck, I got a pair of new front spindles and a pinion/spur cover 2 small inexpensive parts both which came with no damn screws now why in the world would they do that to keep the cost down, what a joke how much more would it cost them to put them in the bag so you had the "complete" part. it wouldn't cost them anymore in packaging, and who is going to not buy something because it is 10-15 cents more because of 2 screws being added. Guess I should have looked closer. Hope I have extra screws for these.
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