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Old 12-13-2016, 07:16 AM   #2071
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I just installed schelle aluminum rear hubs. Much less slop than factor plastic ans more running options.
The B6 ones or the 5 ones?
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Old 12-13-2016, 07:19 AM   #2072
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The B6 ones or the 5 ones?
Either would work on the SC5m. If you use the B6 version you just need the B6 hub inserts.
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Old 12-13-2016, 07:21 AM   #2073
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The B6 ones or the 5 ones?
The 5's
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Old 12-13-2016, 08:02 AM   #2074
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I run my SC5M with the MIP Eco All-In-1 tranny kit, in-line battery right up against the servo, buggy rear shock tower w/ truck springs, SC10 4x4 front sway bar and 13.5 Reedy, AKA Chain Links in front and Pro Line Electrons warn to slicks in the back. 26 front 24 in the back for ride height. The truck is very stuck to the ground. Flies well too. I race indoor med/high bite clay.

With such a heavy body for these vehicles, I doubt running a lay down tranny will provide you anything for lowering the CG.
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Old 12-13-2016, 08:59 AM   #2075
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I run my SC5M with the MIP Eco All-In-1 tranny kit, in-line battery right up against the servo, buggy rear shock tower w/ truck springs, SC10 4x4 front sway bar and 13.5 Reedy, AKA Chain Links in front and Pro Line Electrons warn to slicks in the back. 26 front 24 in the back for ride height. The truck is very stuck to the ground. Flies well too. I race indoor med/high bite clay.

With such a heavy body for these vehicles, I doubt running a lay down tranny will provide you anything for lowering the CG.
What does the buggy rear tower do for you?
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Old 12-13-2016, 09:36 AM   #2076
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Originally I ran buggy towers front and rear along with buggy shocks. But I did not like the limit I had with the front shocks and springs not providing full travel. So I went to the truck front tower and shocks.

On the rear, the tower and shocks locked me into using the inner holes on the arms and outer holes on the tower. I was not able to really get much adjustment with shock placement. But by using the buggy tower and truck shocks, I can run the shocks on the inner most hole on the tower and outer hole on the arms. By doing this I have a much more progressive spring rate and allows more rear body roll. I have 1mm limiter in the rear shocks and 2mm in the front. At this extreme shock angle, the rear wheels have a lot of drop, so they never leave the ground under hard braking into the corners. The heavy front sway bar is providing my truck from rolling too much and removes the traction roll issue.

Another thing to note about my setup, I am running Pro-Line PowerStroke springs front and rear. They are AE shocks though. The reason I run them is to move the shocks completely through their range. I find that with most springs that when I run full stroke, they don't extend the shocks to full droop. By running a very soft spring as the primary and a harder secondary spring, the primary spring runs collapsed until in the air or when an arm drops lower than the secondary spring expands. The primary spring will extend the arm down to full droop. This helps a huge amount in the air. If running only a single spring, the arms will fall/drop further than the spring will extend. So if one arm is freer/or less resistance than others, you land having one wheel touching before the others. And with a dual rate spring setup and progressive shock position, I have a very soft landing but still a stiff enough setup to reduce rough take off and landings from huge jumps. Which OCRC tends to lean towards.

This week I'll be putting in the VRP 'XV2' Pistons front and rear and see how those work.
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Old 12-13-2016, 10:25 AM   #2077
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Originally Posted by Azzkikin View Post
Originally I ran buggy towers front and rear along with buggy shocks. But I did not like the limit I had with the front shocks and springs not providing full travel. So I went to the truck front tower and shocks.
Interesting setup - would be cool to see your setup sheet.

Oone of the biggest performance gains i have in my setup is ride height - 26/24 ; which i believe you are running. Just got to use the shortest shock cups and stack up a few limiters. Kit setup is 30/28 - traction roll city. 4mm is night and day.
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Old 12-13-2016, 10:48 AM   #2078
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Interesting setup - would be cool to see your setup sheet.

Oone of the biggest performance gains i have in my setup is ride height - 26/24 ; which i believe you are running. Just got to use the shortest shock cups and stack up a few limiters. Kit setup is 30/28 - traction roll city. 4mm is night and day.
I'll put together a setup sheet tonight.
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Old 12-13-2016, 12:58 PM   #2079
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Originally Posted by Azzkikin View Post
Originally I ran buggy towers front and rear along with buggy shocks. But I did not like the limit I had with the front shocks and springs not providing full travel. So I went to the truck front tower and shocks.

On the rear, the tower and shocks locked me into using the inner holes on the arms and outer holes on the tower. I was not able to really get much adjustment with shock placement. But by using the buggy tower and truck shocks, I can run the shocks on the inner most hole on the tower and outer hole on the arms. By doing this I have a much more progressive spring rate and allows more rear body roll. I have 1mm limiter in the rear shocks and 2mm in the front. At this extreme shock angle, the rear wheels have a lot of drop, so they never leave the ground under hard braking into the corners. The heavy front sway bar is providing my truck from rolling too much and removes the traction roll issue.

Another thing to note about my setup, I am running Pro-Line PowerStroke springs front and rear. They are AE shocks though. The reason I run them is to move the shocks completely through their range. I find that with most springs that when I run full stroke, they don't extend the shocks to full droop. By running a very soft spring as the primary and a harder secondary spring, the primary spring runs collapsed until in the air or when an arm drops lower than the secondary spring expands. The primary spring will extend the arm down to full droop. This helps a huge amount in the air. If running only a single spring, the arms will fall/drop further than the spring will extend. So if one arm is freer/or less resistance than others, you land having one wheel touching before the others. And with a dual rate spring setup and progressive shock position, I have a very soft landing but still a stiff enough setup to reduce rough take off and landings from huge jumps. Which OCRC tends to lean towards.

This week I'll be putting in the VRP 'XV2' Pistons front and rear and see how those work.
Very detailed explanation and it actually made since lol. Thank you... I'm curious to see your setup too. I run on a large med/high traction indoor clay with the same ride heights and very similar tires (a tad more tread on rear tires). My springs do touch at full droop with the stock towers but I'm not sure they would with the buggy rear. Does your track have a long straight? I would think with the rear upper shocks being in so far, the rear would roll back and forth under hard acceleration??
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Old 12-13-2016, 04:08 PM   #2080
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Ok, here is my setup and a shot of how it looks. And only 81g over minimum weight. Yes, currently the straight is at 120ft long



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Old 12-13-2016, 07:41 PM   #2081
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Thanks man. Do you know of any lay down trannies that'll work? I race indoor clay
http://www.shapeways.com/product/UVB...li=marketplace , I run this in my T5 and I'm putting one my sc5 as well, one of the fast guys at my track runs one in his sc5 and he is very fast with it, indoor med to high bite clay.
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Old 12-15-2016, 09:25 AM   #2082
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Ok, here is my setup and a shot of how it looks. And only 81g over minimum weight. Yes, currently the straight is at 120ft long
Thanks for posting this. Interesting setup. Might have to try moving weight forward again now that i am getting use to the b6d/laydown.

You must have to drive the truck super smooth/not punchy - rewards you with corner speed i am sure.
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Old 12-15-2016, 09:46 AM   #2083
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Originally Posted by hsp-sandiego View Post
Thanks for posting this. Interesting setup. Might have to try moving weight forward again now that i am getting use to the b6d/laydown.

You must have to drive the truck super smooth/not punchy - rewards you with corner speed i am sure.
I am a pretty smooth driver, going through the corners outside through apex and back to the outside. It keeps my speed up through the corners and exiting shoots off like a rocket. The only down fall to driving like this, is there are a lot of drivers who hack their way through the corners. And I don't mean taking people out (at least not on purpose). But they take a corner in 3 or 4 parts, rather than one smooth corner. They go in hard, brake, turn, gas, brake, turn, gas out of the corner. So essentially they are always taking the inside line away. lol. It is a pretty awesome feeling to enter the corner after them, take it out wide, and shoot out ahead of them.

Give the setup as try and let me know what you think.
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Old 12-15-2016, 04:09 PM   #2084
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i am having some trouble with my ball diff. The car is a little over a month old. I feel like I am constantly having to adjust the diff. From a stop under hard acceleration you can hear the diff squeal / make some noise. I have the diff tightened all the way and then loosen about an 1/8th of a turn. Slipper nut is about a half turn in from flush at the end of the threads.

Has anyone changed to a gear dif? what all would be needed to do so? Any disadvantages of doing so? Below is my current setup if that helps.


8t Fantom Motor
160 amp Hobbywing XR10 Pro
86/23 pin/spur
High track clay / carpet
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:19 PM   #2085
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2 things. If you're barking the diff its already shot [usually]. Are you sure its not the slipper? Sometimes the slipper doesn't hold up with a lot of motor and if you are are actually running an 8.0 (delta wind) and not an 8.5T you're motor is immensely torquey.
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