Team Associated SC5M Thread
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#1831
I am switching to a 3 gear tranny for this year. What do I need to do as far as engine rotation? Also , all I need to pick up is the case and motor plate?
Last edited by racegoer711; 08-23-2016 at 06:51 PM.
#1834
Tech Adept
I blew the ball diff after the motor change. I had to change it out so I went a head and did the 3 gear tranny too.
She does fly better. I just need to get used to holding the throttle and she stays flat and true.
When I was changing to the 3 gear, I broke one of the plastic ball links off the rear A arm for the sway bay. I drove it just to see how well the 3 gear work. Well the truck was all over the place. Was not predictable, would not hold a line and the steering seemed way off. Left turns were tight and the right turns it acted like I hit the breaks.
I pulled it off to check it out. Well one of the front bearings had come apart and when I went into a right hand turn the wheel would bind on the knuckle, just like hitting the breaks. I replaced the bearings, rear A arm, man oh man, what a different truck is was.
I could hold the inside lines, would not flip, spin, twist, flew straight, not even close to the truck 30 minutes before.
Brother had a fatal crash into a pole. His truck was done. As it was late he was done for the night. He took my truck around for a few laps. Now he is going to order a bunch of crap for his truck. He was surprised at how SMOOTH the truck is. He has his springs tight and his sort of bounces over the small stuff and mine just soaks it up. He was saying how mine is never out of shape, smooth and easy to drive. After about 5 laps he pulled a 23.8 lap. The buggies are pulling 2o to 22 second laps. So that is not bad for a short course truck.
Buzz.
She does fly better. I just need to get used to holding the throttle and she stays flat and true.
When I was changing to the 3 gear, I broke one of the plastic ball links off the rear A arm for the sway bay. I drove it just to see how well the 3 gear work. Well the truck was all over the place. Was not predictable, would not hold a line and the steering seemed way off. Left turns were tight and the right turns it acted like I hit the breaks.
I pulled it off to check it out. Well one of the front bearings had come apart and when I went into a right hand turn the wheel would bind on the knuckle, just like hitting the breaks. I replaced the bearings, rear A arm, man oh man, what a different truck is was.
I could hold the inside lines, would not flip, spin, twist, flew straight, not even close to the truck 30 minutes before.
Brother had a fatal crash into a pole. His truck was done. As it was late he was done for the night. He took my truck around for a few laps. Now he is going to order a bunch of crap for his truck. He was surprised at how SMOOTH the truck is. He has his springs tight and his sort of bounces over the small stuff and mine just soaks it up. He was saying how mine is never out of shape, smooth and easy to drive. After about 5 laps he pulled a 23.8 lap. The buggies are pulling 2o to 22 second laps. So that is not bad for a short course truck.
Buzz.
#1835
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Hi all. Got the SCT up and running but I'm in need of some assistance. My car had the following issues.
Slow.. I swear it has an invisible anchor dragging behind. The issue here is the motor. I'm running a hobby wing 17.5. Thing was too slow in my buggy. Question I have is what motor do I switch too. For example will the trinity 17.5 maxzilla be fine? Short stack not good for SCT since it's bigger? This is just an example since I know there's a wiDE range of motor preference.
Next issue I have is that the front just dives like a ton of bricks off a jump. I set my ride height to around 26mm frt and rear. This OK? Track I run out is a decent length and very flat with a lot of 180 turns.
Next is set up. I'm literally running the box set up.. white springs and 32 weight all around. Should I soften up the springs? Maybe greens all around.
That's all I can think of for now. Any sort of tuning and set up tips appreciated.
Also it's one hell of a fun class lol.
Slow.. I swear it has an invisible anchor dragging behind. The issue here is the motor. I'm running a hobby wing 17.5. Thing was too slow in my buggy. Question I have is what motor do I switch too. For example will the trinity 17.5 maxzilla be fine? Short stack not good for SCT since it's bigger? This is just an example since I know there's a wiDE range of motor preference.
Next issue I have is that the front just dives like a ton of bricks off a jump. I set my ride height to around 26mm frt and rear. This OK? Track I run out is a decent length and very flat with a lot of 180 turns.
Next is set up. I'm literally running the box set up.. white springs and 32 weight all around. Should I soften up the springs? Maybe greens all around.
That's all I can think of for now. Any sort of tuning and set up tips appreciated.
Also it's one hell of a fun class lol.
#1841
Tech Adept
I am running green springs on the front and rear. thinking of going to black or even silver springs.
Mine used to dive like that. I was hitting the brakes and causing it as my old truck used to want to flip back wards off a jump. Now, with the 3 gear, I hold the throttle and it just flys nice and level.
Try holding a little throttle all the way through the jump.
I can not help with the motor as I am running an 8.5 cheapy.
Buzz.
Mine used to dive like that. I was hitting the brakes and causing it as my old truck used to want to flip back wards off a jump. Now, with the 3 gear, I hold the throttle and it just flys nice and level.
Try holding a little throttle all the way through the jump.
I can not help with the motor as I am running an 8.5 cheapy.
Buzz.
#1842
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Ok.
Another question .. I was looking at the ball stud spacing through out and wanted to know what increasing and decreasing the spacing in each area would do ..
For example,
In the rear, the camber link is at -2 with 3mm of ball stud spacing
the front is at 1mm on the shock tower and 2mm within the steering rack.
The track I run on is a high traction, dirt/clay mix ... we all run slicks if that helps.
I saw one set up where the rear camber link was at +2 with 0mm. Couldn't I technically just take away a 1mm spacer and get the same effect? I don't mind flipping it over.
also the set up had 1mm in steering rack and 1.5mm on shock tower.
Thanks again..
P.S - When I was running it, it was running nice but I feel like my corners could definitely be tighter if that makes sense.
Another question .. I was looking at the ball stud spacing through out and wanted to know what increasing and decreasing the spacing in each area would do ..
For example,
In the rear, the camber link is at -2 with 3mm of ball stud spacing
the front is at 1mm on the shock tower and 2mm within the steering rack.
The track I run on is a high traction, dirt/clay mix ... we all run slicks if that helps.
I saw one set up where the rear camber link was at +2 with 0mm. Couldn't I technically just take away a 1mm spacer and get the same effect? I don't mind flipping it over.
also the set up had 1mm in steering rack and 1.5mm on shock tower.
Thanks again..
P.S - When I was running it, it was running nice but I feel like my corners could definitely be tighter if that makes sense.
#1844
Tech Champion
iTrader: (170)
#1845
Tech Regular
Ok.
Another question .. I was looking at the ball stud spacing through out and wanted to know what increasing and decreasing the spacing in each area would do ..
For example,
In the rear, the camber link is at -2 with 3mm of ball stud spacing
the front is at 1mm on the shock tower and 2mm within the steering rack.
The track I run on is a high traction, dirt/clay mix ... we all run slicks if that helps.
I saw one set up where the rear camber link was at +2 with 0mm. Couldn't I technically just take away a 1mm spacer and get the same effect? I don't mind flipping it over.
also the set up had 1mm in steering rack and 1.5mm on shock tower.
Thanks again..
P.S - When I was running it, it was running nice but I feel like my corners could definitely be tighter if that makes sense.
Another question .. I was looking at the ball stud spacing through out and wanted to know what increasing and decreasing the spacing in each area would do ..
For example,
In the rear, the camber link is at -2 with 3mm of ball stud spacing
the front is at 1mm on the shock tower and 2mm within the steering rack.
The track I run on is a high traction, dirt/clay mix ... we all run slicks if that helps.
I saw one set up where the rear camber link was at +2 with 0mm. Couldn't I technically just take away a 1mm spacer and get the same effect? I don't mind flipping it over.
also the set up had 1mm in steering rack and 1.5mm on shock tower.
Thanks again..
P.S - When I was running it, it was running nice but I feel like my corners could definitely be tighter if that makes sense.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ber-links.html