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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Offical Team Associated SC5M Thread
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Old 07-05-2016, 06:00 AM   #1726
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when i had a 22SCT, my thrust bearing washers completely disintegrated and others had the same issue along with snapping diff bolts and the solution was to buy associated parts. once i did that, i never had any issues. weird that you and your friends have seen failures with the AE stuff.
Yes... Maybe we had a bad batch ? Do you think I should contact AE to report the problem ? Maybe they are aware of this problem...
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Old 07-05-2016, 06:32 PM   #1727
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What is the best servo for the sc5m? I am usually a savox or futaba guy but if there is something else better please let me know. Thank you
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Old 07-05-2016, 08:26 PM   #1728
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What is the best servo for the sc5m? I am usually a savox or futaba guy but if there is something else better please let me know. Thank you
Best is going to mean something different to different people. Some want the fastest, others want more torque and others want cheap.

So tell us what you are after,speed,torque or best bang for the buck.

I myself use a Futaba S9452. Its not the fastest or most powerful.
Speed: .13 sec/60 @ 4.8V
.11 sec/60 @ 6V
Torque: 102 oz-in (7.4 kg/cm) @ 4.8V
128 oz-in (9.2 kg/cm) @ 6V
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Old 07-05-2016, 11:43 PM   #1729
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What is the best servo for the sc5m? I am usually a savox or futaba guy but if there is something else better please let me know. Thank you
I normally use Savx because they're good and cheap.

But I got a good deal for a Futaba S9352hv which I installed in my SC5m. Got it NIB for 50 instead of 130 on eBay
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Old 07-05-2016, 11:48 PM   #1730
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I use a 1015 (different Distributors), nothing to complain.
In my other cars I mostly run Savox - never had an issue!
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Old 07-06-2016, 02:49 AM   #1731
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1015's are good, I think anything that gets you at least 150 lbs. of torque and is aroung .10 should do you just fine, I have one of the new Reedys, and its too fast, ended up slowing it down via my radio settings for digital servos. Smooths it out greatly. Truck has a s***load of steering that needs to be calmed down.
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Old 07-06-2016, 06:35 AM   #1732
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I just purchased the sc5m and was wondering what is evrybodies choices on batteries and which esc will work the best with it. Im looking to go with either a 13.5 or 10.5 motor.
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Old 07-06-2016, 07:24 AM   #1733
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Hey guys, I have a question and not sure if it's been covered already or not. I've just recently purchased an SC5M and I'm running a 13.5 Tekin Gen 1 motor with boost on an asphalt track with high grip. My question is would the ball diff give better rotation than a gear diff? It's rotating decent now, and I'm adding sway bars to it soon. Any thoughts on this?
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Old 07-06-2016, 11:24 PM   #1734
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MUDVAYNE,

Race mine on high traction sealed clay off road or sealed asphalt on road, with the same setup. Only changes are the ride heights >> on road 22mm front and 20mm rear plus tires to fit track.

Haven't tried a gear diff.

The on road gear diff cars I race are tail loose compared to the ball diff cars.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...bbies20160109/
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Old 07-07-2016, 10:56 AM   #1735
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MUDVAYNE,

Race mine on high traction sealed clay off road or sealed asphalt on road, with the same setup. Only changes are the ride heights >> on road 22mm front and 20mm rear plus tires to fit track.

Haven't tried a gear diff.

The on road gear diff cars I race are tail loose compared to the ball diff cars.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...bbies20160109/
Cool, thanks for the set up sheet and info! The more I read it seems like the gear diff causes an off power push as opposed to the ball diff. I think I'll stick with what I have on that front, but if the parts come in on time I'm going to try the 3 gear trans and see if that helps in the corner.
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Old 07-07-2016, 12:45 PM   #1736
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What C-block you running?
I switched to the 3-1 for outdoors from the 3-2 when running indoors.
we run a series here on really loose dry tracks, we added brass c & d plates, and 35 grams more weight after that to the rear. also proline blockade m4 tires and run rear shock on inner most hole on arm and rear shock tower(that helps for loose conditions). You have to add alot of weight to the mid motor cars for outdoor, since they lost weight in rear moving motor to the mid configuration. hope that help, but tires outdoor are 90% of setup and you have to add weight, overall i think with the c & d blocks brass and other weight i added close to 60 grams of weight to the rear. hope that helps
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Old 07-07-2016, 08:50 PM   #1737
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Second trip to the track. Truck is working really well. It is so much more than my old SC10.2. This truck seems to be so stable, not twitchy, goes where you point it, holds the line, does not spin, just a lot more fun to drive.

I checked the ride height tonight. I am 33mm front and rear. I can turn under my brothers SC5m with ease. His is riding way to high.

We had a good time tonight on the new layout. Way more technical, turns, double, triples, left, right, gas, brakes, power, turn. Fun track. This layout is only 2 days old so the blue groove was just starting to build tonight.


Buzz.
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Old 07-07-2016, 10:10 PM   #1738
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33mm, holy hell that seems high.....I am at 22/20
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Old 07-08-2016, 08:10 AM   #1739
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I have mine setup per the manual. Same shock settings, same oil, the included springs. What settings can I change to lower it? If I left it off the ground, just set it down I get about 10-12mm sag. That is a guess, have not measured it.

If I can lower it and make it faster, that means I will be that much faster than my brother, that is a good thing. You know, brotherly love and all.

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Old 07-08-2016, 08:22 AM   #1740
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If you never measured it, how do you know it is at 33mm......
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